chaseincats

Ah gotcha, so there are long black hinges that attach to the ends of each piece of wood and are screwed into the bracket? It seems that the two wooden pieces don't connect to each other then? Any idea where I could get that hardware? I've looked everywhere...

Awesome, thanks for this! Is there any special hardware I use to mount the floor? I seem to remember they have some sort of hinge so they can be raised and lowered instead of being screwed into the car, am I wrong? I do have the side wooden pieces, but didn't add them to the original picture. Here is what my hatch area looks like: So it looks like I have the brackets but am missing the mounting hardware?

Hi guys, Can someone tell me what hardware I'm missing and how to connect the subfloor? These have always basically rested in place in my car and were never really connected to anything. Here's what I have: Any ideas? -chase

Thanks, I'll look into this!

This is the hole I'm talking about. I sealed it with tape on the inside and outside but I'd prefer a grommet (I don't expect the outside piece to stay on for long).

do you have an example on this tube?

Unfortunately it seems like they don't have it. Thanks anyway!

I have that here coincidentally. Can foam actually create an air-tight seal?

My hatch plugs are fine, its the antenna drain plug (under the car) and possibly the antenna itself Is the drain plug grommet still available? I can't seem to find it.

Ok guys so I found them and here's the list: definitive: vapor tank vacuum line grommet had a huge hole vapor tank hose floor grommet was cracked a bunch of cracks on the fuel filler hose body mount mating area cracked body seam sealer near rear wheel well possible: antenna to body rubber - exhaust get in here? antenna drain plug missing - are these available anywhere? I've taped this shut a few times but it didn't really help

Hi guys, Is it possible for worn/torn vapor tank floor grommets to be the culprit for exhaust fumes in the cabin? If the holes were on the exhaust pipe side, I'd say I've finally found my leak but these hoses/grommets are on the passenger side of the car. (Note: I have changed the inner/outer hatch gasket, glass seal, taillight gaskets, sealed the hatch's vinyl panel, and sealed the hatch grommets) I can also see light through the accordion-style grommet that seals the fuel filler hose to the car but obviously can't glue that shut like the other I found - is that accordion bit replaceable?

Awesome info, thanks! The car has an L26 instead of an L24 - would that change any of these ratings or are those pretty universal for all L-series engines?

Have some main/idle jets & emulsion tube pictures. It looks like they say: main jet/emulsion tube: 60F6, F11 idle jet: 125 Any ideas?

He's out of town until Monday - I'll get back to you then. Thanks for all your help so-far. @240260280 Gotcha on the main and idle jets, any recommended stats for emulsion tube?

Will he have to measure the opening hole, or will the size be stamped on the jet?

Thanks, I'll pass the message along.

Yeah, that's what's so strange about it and leads me to believe maybe the jets that kit comes with are too large?

Since it's a 260 it has both - a mechanical pump in the front and an electric in the back. It has an in-line pressure regulator on there set to 2. I believe this is the regulator he has: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/mr--gasket-4367/performance-16477/engine-16841/fuel-system-16571/fuel-pressure-regulators-17798/37354b4805ef/mr-gasket-fuel-pressure-regulator/9710/4514726/1978/nissan/280z?pos=1 EDIT: He only has an electric fuel pump in the back set to 2.5 psi

Ok - let me msg my pal

Question for you guys - I have a friend who bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-DCOE-Kit-fits-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Triple-Performance-40-DCOE-K659/272778769560?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&fbclid=IwAR1-Pa61k0L6wA2H0mXxTlwqbQ5MLFtBQT5KGbX4TlrUgjEMWnvBwIyfpWE Even with the air mixture screw set to max-lean, the exhaust out of this car is so rich it burns your eyes within a few seconds. Are the jets this kit comes with too aggressive? -chase

Wow, I had no idea that was there. I just took a look and the latch was bolted in all the way in the down position. My guess is they had it that way with the old deteriorated seal on it. I moved it up quite a bit and the hatch closed really well. Is there a calibration spec for this? For example, is it a "drop it from 1/4 height and it shouldn't latch but if dropped from 1/2 height it should" type of spec?

The latch is connected to a patch panel so that might be the root cause - the panel installed improperly. That said, with the hatch closed, the middle of the hatch seems to slightly bow out when compared to the body lines. I also just tried to close it with the windows down and to no avail - it will just sit open on the seals.

Is there a way to raise the hat shut lines so that I don't have to keep slamming the hatch to close it? I have an OEM seal on it and have had it for a while and still seem to have to slam the hatch. Is my hatch adjusted incorrectly?

I have a california car so I'm guessing its there somewhere haha - I'll check the fsm EDIT: I found it - check and see if you have it, it is this gold pod and the wires going to it are solid blue and solid black. I'm guessing to engage that we just bridge those 2 wires?

Is there a way to trick the ECU into going into high-altitude mode?