chaseincats

Well that makes me feel better. The angle you bent it to fixes this more or less? If it does, could you take a picture of your angle and I'll bend it this afternoon.

The sending unit is literally brand new and so its configured to factory spec. Wouldn't bending it undo that?

Yea it acts exactly the same which is frustrating. You don't think it could be resistance in the wires when it gets to a certain amperage. Or would it be that if there was resistance in the wires it would be inaccurate all the way through the tank range?

Hey guys I'm at a bit of a loss here. Problem: My gas gauge is correct until it reaches the 1/3 full mark. At that point, the needle will fall to an empty tank reading within a few miles. An empty tank reading at that time denotes 6 gallons remaining in the tank (if i take it immediately to a gas station, I will be able to put ~12 gallons in each time). Steps taken: I installed a new fuel sending unit from zcardepot which oddly didn't fix the problem. The only thing this fixed is my gas gauge needle slightly wiggled around a millimeter or 2 continually with the old unit - the new sending unit fixed that. Swapped out the dash gauge with a spare which gave more or less the same result (the other gauge read 1/8 full instead of empty). Went through each connector via the factory service manual and gave each a good blast of caig de-oxit - that said, every one of those connectors looked brand new. I've tested the gauge by filling the car up when it reads 3/4 full and the proper gallons are in there so it really does seem to be a problem only within the 1/3 to empty range of the tank. So I'm at a bit of a loss here because everything looks good including the connectors. Could there be some corrosion inside the wiring somewhere? Do these gauges fall out of calibration? Any ideas? -chase

Gotcha, thanks so much for your help Ron, I'll keep you guys updated.

@zclocks Do you recall how often the 1978 quartz clock is supposed to tick? I'm getting a tick exactly every 6 seconds. I remember hearing these don't tick every second but I believe every 6 seconds isn't correct. If that is indeed too slow, any ideas as to where I should look for the culprit?

@zclocks Gotcha - thanks Ron. I will give this a shot and report back! -chase

nobody?

Hi guys, Trying to remove the hands on my 1978 280z Quartz clock to swap on the white face decal but can't seem to figure it out. I heard somewhere that you just kinda yank the hands off (straight up) but I tried that and feel I'm going to break something. Any ideas? -chase

Right - I learned this the hard way a few weeks back haha

Awesome, very comprehensive information - thanks

I believe one of the companies who makes these are "American Racing" but does anybody know other brands who make this style wheel? -chase

Alright gang so we have a success story here - solid idea with the camera. The clip ended up indeed being INSIDE the support beam box and was a real pain to get out. We ended up using one of those cameras and a long piece of thick gauge wire to keep poking at it until it peeked its head out for a quick grab with the tweezers. I'm happy to report no more rattles and door locks that are usable now haha. Thanks for all your solid ideas per usual!

Definitely true, I'm hoping at that point it will have rattled its way into somewhere accessible.

The door card is off - thats how I popped it out to begin with. I think since the clip is $6 I'll just grab another one from Nissan instead of hunting with new hardware. Just so strange how it out right disappeared.

Yep, I did with that but its tough to get everywhere since I haven't removed the window.

I forgot to mention i tried that on both sides of the door (put a piece of paper between the magnet and paint and dragged it around the door listening for a click but still nothing. Are there any pockets in there where this could have fallen into?

Here's a new one I bet. I bought new lock cylinders for my '78 and while taking out the clip that holds the lock in, the clip flew out and literally just disappeared somewhere in the door. I've been rooting around in there with a flashlight for the better part of an hour to no avail. I've tried knocking all over the door to hear a rattle and nothing. I've rolled the window a bunch of times up and down to see if it was caught somewhere but this thing has flat out disappeared. Are there any places in the door that I should look that might not be evident to someone new to the inner world of the doors?

Gotcha, thanks - I'll put the bar on hold then

Gotcha - I'm mostly looking for the rear one on the condition that it keeps the cabin flex to a minimum so my damn interior panels stop clicking. I tried putting tape and what not on the inside (definitely helped) but I was hoping/curious if a rear bar would put an end to that. Any idea if it would?

Has anyone installed the front and rear strut tower brace bars (not sway bars)? I'm curious if this really changes much besides aesthetics.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot and report back

Hi guys, As I'm assuming for many of us, the foam in the passenger seat cushion is in better shape than that of the driver's side. I've done a bunch of research and the jury seems to be split on if the seat cushions can be swapped between the two seats. Has anyone tried/had any luck in swapping them? -chase

Any idea where I can find the snaps that slide into the vinyl trim piece that goes over the rear wheel arch? I believe these are the same snaps that are used to hold the door card to the door metal. I attached a picture of the one remaining one I have. I can only seem to find plastic rivets for the hard plastic panels but not the snaps . Anyone have any ideas?

Gotcha - makes sense