chaseincats

You've probably hit the nail on the head - the terminals definitely aren't brass. I'll put some of that goop in there and hopefully that will be the end of that. Why would putting a non-trivial amount of that in each terminal be a bad thing btw?

Thanks guys I just checked and the majority of the terminals in the cap have at least some form of mild corrosion going on (but no melted terminals). The cap and wires are only about 6 mo nths old - why are they corroding so quickly? I have a tube of Ox-gard - should I just fill each terminal on the cap up with this and pop the connectors in?

Are you thinking it would be a connection in that vicinity or just somewhere in the loom?

Hi guys, My distributor cap's center connector rubber bit seems to be melting courtesy of the HT wire from my spark coil. Is this commonplace, or is there something going wrong here? The car runs perfectly fine and only noticed this by chance...

Dude that is a great idea! Can't believe I never thought of that. I'll report back.

The bolt goes from behind the door, through the drilled hole, through the rubber gasket, and into the threads under the stand like in the picture. It just seems needlessly complicated. Do you remember where you got the mustang mirrors you have?

If it's that tough, I may just send them back unfortunately.

Its the hex head on the chart

Hi guys, Not sure if any of you have tried installing the MSA bullet mirrors (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02e02/50-1178) but I'm having a bit of trouble here. They mount by way of 2 bolts with their hex head facing the inside of the door (basically the mirror is installed such that the bolt sandwiches the door between the mirror's threads and the hex head of the bolt which is located under the curvature of the top of the door. This seems incredibly difficult to install as you are basically holding the hex head inside the door and hoping you can find the threads of the mirror blindly so I'm figuring I must be doing something wrong. Anyone have any experience with these?

Awesome. This is a huge help - case closed

Actually hold on, isn't that dimple on the retainer ring and not the fuel sender unit itself?

great to know - I'll go give it a look, thanks!

Weird - mine you can pop in and just spin around. No "keyed' edges on mine I believe...

So if this is accurate in terms of install direction and not just facing that direction for ease of drawing, that would mean that the float should be pointed to the front of the car?

Hi gang, Installing a new fuel sending unit (top loader for a '78 280z) but don't remember which direction the arm is supposed to face once installed (towards the front of the car/rear/left or right side). I keep bumping the internal bits of the tank during installation and once almost ran out of gas because the arm must have been jammed up against something in the tank denoting a full tank on the gas gauge. Any idea which way the arm is supposed to face once installed in the tank for a '78? -chase

whats the benefit of an ampmeter over a voltmeter?

Ah, ok gotcha. I thought the reverse checking assembly was datsun speak for the reverse switch. Thanks

Sounds good, thanks for the info I'll keep that in mind when dealing with the nut. Kind of confused regarding the reverse switch because that tranny rebuild PDF that has been making the rounds (attached) talks about it - but glad it seems to be wrong i guess! -chase Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

Hey gang, now that we got the shifter pin out, I'm putting together my bag-o-parts to reseal this transmission and have everything except for 2 bits which are NLA. - main shaft nut (right hand threaded one which is a 280z trans only part) - part number 32354-a7400 - reverse switch o-ring size 22x2.5mm - cant find part number Anyone have a source for these or know if they're really necessary?

wow, neither did I - very cool

sounds good - thanks

Quick question for you folks with a volt (not amp) meter. What does your guys' volt gauge read when its sitting off in the garage? Mine is sitting at a smidge over 12v - is that correct? It seems lower than I remember, but I could be wrong.

nice job!

I actually haven't seen the seal yet - that method is what I relayed to the person working on my trans. I believe its just a lip seal so you should be able to just pick it out

The shift rod comes out by pressing it through the end cap. We used a press to push it through but if you put it in a vice and give the end of the rod a few good wacks it should come out the other side, allowing you to swap out the grease seal.