chaseincats
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Everything posted by chaseincats
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I still don't understand how the car is running w/o the fuel pump going
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totally understandable, let me know how it goes
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The problem is with your new clutch master not slave cylinder's piston length. Your clutch pedal is connected to a push rod (piston) which directly goes into your master cylinder. The piston you have is (probably) too short which is in turn not able to push enough fluid through the clutch hydrolic system to fully actuate the clutch fork thus disengaging the clutch enough to change gears. TL;DR: clutch master (not slave) piston length is most likely the item that isnt matching up to oem length. Compare the oem one you have on hand.
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In that case ya, it's your clutch master cylinder's pusher. Swap it out with the stock one you still have (I think you just need a pair of needle nose pliers that you can use to take off the snap-ring retainer clip).
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after swapping the master cylinder, did the clutch work at all w/o grinding?
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If you installed a new clutch master cylinder you need to swap the pusher rod (the metal bit that goes into the cylinder) because the reproductions are shorter for some reason (this was my problem). Also be sure its fully bled.
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Any luck finding the issue?
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Cool, I'll leave it as-is - thanks!
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Question for you - I've had a '78 280z for about 3 years and never changed the engine bay/gas tank fuel filters. When I look at the post gas tank clear fuel filter it looks brand new so I assume the filter in the engine bay is also looking great internally. Should I bother changing these even if they look brand new on the inside? I know these are cheap but if I don't need to change something I'd prefer not to break out the wallet.
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Here's a nice unsafe way to determine if fuel is somehow being pumped into the engine without your knowledge: unplug the fuel hose between the hardline and engine bay fuel filter, put it in a bucket, and have someone try and start the car (with the fuel pump switch off) and see if you get gas. You'll know real quick if theres some hidden pump somewhere (or if your switch isn't working/wired correctly)...
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The condenser definitely has a leak (the ac shop put dye in it) but said they couldn't solder the leak shut because the heat would just open a new hold due to the metal's age/weakness. That said, the machine they use at the store was able to get the AC charged to the point of it being proper cold which is why I don't understand why it won't take the whole can from the low side...
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Yep it was converted to 134a. The reason I think 20 isn’t enough is when my AC shop filled it up with their beefy machine the AC was freezing. With the 20lb I put in it was just coolish...
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Weird situation going on here. I'm attempting to charge my factory AC on my '78 280z. There's a non-trivial leak in the condenser but it will hold refrigerant for about a month and a half. I plugged an AC gauge/charger into the low side port and connected a r134a can, but the system only took in enough to get to about 20lb of pressure. After leaving the car running for about 15 minutes and it staying on 20lb, I shut it off and took the can out (i turned the can sideways and upside-down while charging but it never went above 20lb of pressure. When I wiggle the can I can still hear liquid in there. Is there some other liquid in these cans that do not get sucked into the system or is there an issue on my end? Here's what I'm using: Gauge/charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00620PXMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cans without leak sealer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WXQBUQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 any ideas?
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Since you directly connected the pump to the battery and it didn't turn then the pump is dead. Just go get a new pump or try @psdenno's idea and give it a smack. Also, if you have the ability (air hose) try and blow out the metal fuel line (with the pump and fuel filter hoses disconnected of course.
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Sounds good, thanks so much. Will report back.
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Hi guys, My pal just got brand new triple webers going (74 260z) and we're having a tough time getting the first carb (one closest to the firewall) to sync with the other two. When we popped the vacuum gauge into the front of each carb, we originally had a reading of "5" for the front two and "7" for the one near the firewall. After turning the screw up on the other two to "7", the carb near the firewall started reading as "10" even though we didn't make any changes to it. Any idea what we're doing wrong here? -chase
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I just got off the phone with my old Z mechanic (he exclusively does old Zs). He was saying that depending on which AFM you have, some s30s turn the pump on when the key is in 'on' like mine is doing (with the car off). I am assuming that he is referring to the 1978 air flow meter since only '78's afm had the fuel pump pin removed from the AFM by Datsun (I dont recall why). Edit - it seems that 1978 came with two AFMs depending on when it was made. earlier 1978 models share the universal 280z afm (7 pins) but some 1978 models share the 1979 280zx 5 pin model. weird
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lol fair enough. Why would it start the car up immediately after it starts once. I'd have thought that if its electrical it would have a sluggish start each time, no? Edit - ive been looking through the FSM and your chart and am a bit confused - it says 3 out of the 4 situations where the key is in 'on' have the pump being actuated without putting the key to 'start.' Am I missing something here (I'm not the best at electrical)?
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Ah, so you're saying that its pressurizing in on where it should be - so maybe its not/or delaying pushing fuel through at 'start'?
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Right - it turns on until the fuel pressure gauge gets to 38 then shut off after a few seconds. If it's working (tried this a few times over the course of a few days and pressurized perfectly/within a second or 2 each time), why would the relay be a problem?
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It definitely is odd but it's been so consistent that I haven't ignored it. I got vice grips and temporarily clamped the hoses that connect to the fuel rail on the supply and return side (didn't block off the metal lines specifically). I spliced in an in-line check valve between the fuel filter and the rail a while back but that didn't change the starting issue (that should have been in the original post). I'm not sure if somebody wired my car differently, but unlike other 280s, when I turn my key to 'on' not 'start' my fuel pump primes (I did this when I was testing the fuel pressure with the gauge). Whenever I start the car, I usually turn it to 'on' for about 5 seconds to pressurize the rail but this doesn't affect the cranking issue which leads me to believe that its not a fuel rail pressure issue.
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Sounds good @Zed Head, see below: Car: 1978 280z stock L28 motor Problem: Long crank times after sitting overnight (>7 seconds of cranking before it will run). After starting, it can be restarted on the 1st or 2nd crank even if the car was only running for a second or two (the car doesn't need to warm up to achieve the 1st/2nd crank start). After sitting for a few hours/overnight the car reverts to the >7 second cranking time before a start Done so far: Checked for low/slow fuel pressure - the fuel pressure gauge shot up to 38ish lbs almost immediately, so the fuel pump is good Installed brand new NGK plugs and wires (they were old anyway) - this didn't fix the problem. (ignore the previous posts about capping hoses, that theory is busted). The CSV is new and worked great in the winter, but is not being triggered now because of the warm weather. Observation: I noticed that by spraying contact cleaner into the fuel injector power connector after sanding them a bit (the connector that comes off of the positive battery cable), the car starts up on the first or second crank regardless of how long it had been sitting - however I need to keep doing this every few days or it reverts to the 7-10 second crank. I also tried the Ox-Gard recommended above which worked for a few days, but I am back to the 7-10 second crank until I clean and re-spray the contact cleaner on those connectors. any ideas?
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If we now assume that fuel in the pistons isn't the issue, any ideas as to what else could be causing the slow first start but easy subsequent ones?
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@siteunseen Gave it a shot and while the plugs mildly smell like gas, there wasn't any visible liquid gas sitting in the cylinders (although they were a bit shiny) so I guess that theory is out. In retrospect, gas shouldn't be able to sit in the cylinders since the piston rings are a bit tired and let a mild amount of oil in the cylinders so whatever gas would be sitting in the cylinders probably drains down into the block lol. Any ideas? I'm scratching my head here... Edit: I have no idea if this gives anyone any electrical hints, but the seatbelt buzzer has been beeping a about a 2x faster rate than before this problem started. No idea if this gives any clues but thought I'd add it. Also, the car after being started will only fast-idle to around 950 rpm instead of 1100 again, im not sure if this helps but figured id disclose it (that said it has been warming up here in texas so I'm not sure how affected the AAR is by that). -chase
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great idea, I will give that a shot and post my findings.
