chaseincats

So I gave the ox-gard a shot and just like with the cleaning spray, it helped for a few days and now I'm back to the labored first start problem again (I also changed the plugs/wires to the proper NGK branded products but that didn't help either). Here's where it gets interesting/possibly have a lead here. I put a fuel pressure gauge just before the rail to see if maybe I was getting low pressure from the pump but within a second or two, pressure shot right up to the high 30s as it should. I then capped off the fuel feed, then fuel return, and finally both hoses and noticed that overnight fuel pressure in the rail dropped to zero. This means that one or all of my injectors leak fuel overnight, right? Could the labored start be due to the cylinders having liquid fuel sitting in there? It would explain why after the first labored start, the car starts up immediately as the liquid fuel has already been burned off. If that's indeed the problem, short of buying all new injectors, is there something else I could do to work around the problem? Any ideas? -chase

I agree with everyone - its most likely the starter switch (same happened with me). $24 gets you a brand new one from your local parts store (example: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/import-direct-ignition-4489/lighting---electrical-16777/switches-16486/body-switches-25096/ignition-switch-11887/18fc40cb0eca/import-direct-ignition-starter-switch/180325/5731977/1978/nissan/280z?pos=0)

The Kia motor does by far

Another benefit of the Kia motor over the Honda one is that the Kia one requires no soldering. I believe the Honda motor requires a resistor or something to be soldered in as the Honda motor blows backwards when plugged into an S30 without that modification which isn't necessary with the Kia one.

As an FYI, some Sportage blowers have the proper plug/play T connector but some actually have ones that look like a standard wall outlet. Not sure what year made the change over, but ya just keep your eyes out for the one with the right connector.

The blower works/fits all s30s. If you have a 280z, the power connector is plug and play (but with series 1 240s, the connector to the blower motor needs the adapter @jfa.series1 fabricated). While the 280z's blower motor is beefier than the 240's, the sportage motor handily eclipses both. In my '78 280 for example, the level 5 fan speed setting with the original motor is roughly equivalent to level 3 using the sportage motor. These things move A LOT more air and are way quieter like Jim was saying.

Glad to hear it worked out!!

haha thanks, good to be here ?

gotcha, makes sense

Yep it's always done that. Forgot to mention that I have headers too (they may be the same ones haha). Glad to know its nothing to worry about. Why do these cars do it but modern cars don't?

Hi guys, Weird question for you. My car spits out black sooty condensation water in the morning like you can see in the pic (this pic has about 2 week's worth of soot). Ordinarily, I'd think this is because the car is running rich, but I checked the plugs and the spark point on the plug was nice and white. That said, the piston rings are tired and it does burn some oil (wet oil on the plug threads) and doesn't have a catalytic converter ('78 280z) but I am not sure if that will cause this sooty water buildup. Any ideas as to why this is happening/is there a way to fix it? Thanks! -chase

Gotcha, thanks for all the info, I'll go give the starter & solenoid terminals a look!

I've tried letting the car sit for days with and without a recent re-spray of the contacts and the start up time/stutter is definitely dramatically decreased when I respray it. Would putting some dialectic grease in there help improve connectivity?

So I recently went through the whole list of contacts to clean on the Atlantic Z page and noticed that after cleaning the fuel injection power fusible link (sanded then doused with Caig Deoxit) the starter sounds way beefier and the car starts up considerably faster. The problem is that after the contact cleaner dries the car's starting speed/stronger starter sound reverts to how it was before. Is there some sort of goop or product I can put on the contacts to permanently keep that great connection? -chase

Culprit has been found (thanks everyone!). The driveshaft bolts were loose.

In the recording, I was going at max 5mph and then came to a stop at the end which is why the clicking slows. The car is up in the air. Where specifically should I be looking for rub marks - the connecting area for the halfshafts to the diff? Could u-joints click if they need grease?

Ya it makes the noise consistently forwards and backwards. I gave the joints a yank but got no play out of them. I don't believe the OE half-shafts have grease fittings (I see a screw on them but not a grease nipple).

I just got under the car and after chocking the passenger side wheel, I spun the driver side wheel and got the clunking - the left wheel doesn't make the diff clunk. Does this help in the diagnosis?

There are 2 u-joints - no boots on the end

I'm not sure - when I get under the car, what should I be looking for to tell?

Hi guys, So I was driving today and somewhere in the rear I started to get a clicking/ratchet type sound when I was coasting out of gear. The sound speeds up and slows down in a 1:1 ratio with the car's speed. It is most evident when I'm going slower and seems to not click as loudly when I am in gear compared to coasting in neutral (but I could be wrong). The sound is not super loud but is very noticeable. I have attached an MP3 of the sound but if that doesn't work, you can hear it here: https://vocaroo.com/i/s0pvF7JKlewZ Any ideas? -chase EDIT: I got it up on stands and spun the rear tires. The clicking seems to be coming from the area where the driver's side cv joint connects to the differential as it is louder on that side but still audible on the passenger side. I shook the u-joints but didn't notice any play in them. I didn't think the r200s ever went bad though? clicking.mp3

There is but it is a non-trivial amount of work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1QDLd2hn4Q

Alright, the string is on, the shifter area is filled with grease, the boot is on, and now we wait. Should I re-fill the transmission to the fill line or do you think that is just asking for trouble (it drives fine with the trans fluid level it currently has).

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

So should I just fill the area with grease to seal it?