chaseincats

Gotcha, so it wouldn't be the spring tension that would be different, it would be the circuit board?

Hi guys, quick question. Rockauto seems to have reman 5-pin AFMs in stock where the Canada spec one is half the price of the federal emissions (guessing that means USA) spec version. Anyone know what is the mechanical difference between these?

Bringing this back for a special "happy new year" edition of this thread with one new observation. Much like the 240z's big orange carb filter's "winter/summer" switch, I've found that adjusting the AFM requires a 1 tooth adjustment depending on the season (in order to stay within those air/fuel numbers). When it gets cold, richen it one tooth (clockwise) and when it warms up in the summer, lean it one tooth (counter-clockwise). I'm assuming this is due to cold air being denser and thus leans out the car, but I'm no scientist it's just what I noticed on the gauge after all this time. For me this means that the summer tuning is 3 teeth to the left of the stock tooth (that you should have marked) and winter decreases that by 1 tooth meaning that the winter setting is 2 teeth to the left of the stock configuration. Happy tuning my friends. Let 2024 be the year of 14.7

That is currently connected (the line from the tank into the carbon canister inlet port) to the carbon canister. Originally, when I noticed the fuel vapor smell in the cabin, that line was completely disconnected (but as it sits now, that is the only thing connected to the carbon canister).

That line is open with the inlet port on the intake manifold capped. I just don't understand how the fuel tank vapors are getting into the cabin since I can't find any leaks in the back...

So in this case it sounds like the check valve wouldn't be a leak point for fuel vapors - bummer

I changed my cap to a generic one from oreilly's since I wanted one with a lock. The original cap was on there when I got it and did not seal the tank vapors at all - with this one you can only smell them if you really put your nose to it so that should be fine I'm thinking.

Sorry, that's what I meant - the valve at the top doesn't hold vacuum, so it pulls in fresh air/vapor at all times, including at idle. When I started it after re-connecting the canister to the purge/throttlebody trigger vacuum lines, it ran poorly with the rich/lean number on my a/f gauge bouncing between 12 an 16 and it drove equally as poorly until I disconnected both vacuum lines (capped the purge hose on the intake and connected the throttlebody directly to the distributor like before.

Gotcha. If I smell near my gas cap, I do smell vapor - is that normal?

Thanks for providing this! Kind of odd, I noticed it went from easy to blow through (from the engine side) to hard with each successive time I blew through that line in the engine bay. According to this however it should be tough all the time? Also, it is kind of confusing as to why it should be hard to blow through when going from the engine to the vapor tank. You'd think that should be easy since the vapors are coming that direction (from the tank to the engine), no? -chase

Hi guys, I'm honestly not sure which sub forum this was supposed to go in but here we are. Periodically I smell gas fumes in the car. One of the main culprits was the old-style hose clamps weren't sealing the hoses to the vapor tank well enough. I changed them to modern belt-clamps which helped a lot but not fully. I've been testing the leak by blowing in the hardline that connects the carbon canister to the vapor tank and scampering back there to sniff around (which is how I originally found the clamps were a problem) but I'm still smelling some fumes while driving so it's not fully fixed. At this point I can't seem to pin down the smell point and even used a smoke machine but found no leaks. Could the check valve that goes from the vapor tank to the carbon canister have a bleed-off function? Also, any idea where that check valve is? I can't seem to find it. If it sits outside of the cabin then that might not be the leak though. Note: my carbon canister is disconnected because it doesn't hold vacuum. If I was able to use that system, I'm assuming this wouldn't be as big of an issue but who knows. Any ideas? chase

Thanks for the information all, I'll check these out!

Hey gang, So there has been this squeak towards the back recently and it's been driving me nuts. I found out its the rubber alignment bumper on the side rubbing on the side of the hatch meaning the hatch is misaligned left to right. Is there any way to fix this? Pictures so the left and right - you'll notice the gap between the hatch and body is different on each side with the third picture being the paint rubbed off by the side bumper.

so it sounds like I should open the cowl and see if theres any mud dauber mud in there?

So it's sounding like the resounding conclusion is some sort of very short-lived bug. Quite frankly that sound/how often it happens kind of makes sense. The buzzing really doesn't last all that long and will go away for months. I'll start taking a look around the car to find openings that may need shuttenings (which I'm dubbing a word). Does anyone know where the fresh-air opening is for a 78? @grannyknot The rear hatch plugs have an unbroken piece of duct tape over them as a seal.

When it does happen I play with all of those in my head and nothing really seems to add up. Interesting people saying it could be a bug. It does sound like it could be something angerly buzzing in there, but I don't understand how something would enter that area if that is indeed the case.

any idea what that buzzing could be? it really does sound like power buzzing, its really odd.

Hi guys, Quick question for you - is there a wiring harness that goes through the a-pillar or through the portion above the door but below the roof (its covered with foam/vinyl)? The reason I ask is periodically I will hear a buzzing, kind of like the sound of high voltage jumping from a wire to a ground coming from the area above the passenger door but below the roof. Is there a wiring harness there that could have a nicked wire? This does not seem to be affected by the volume of the stereo. -chaseincats

The trim panel is not going to do you any good unless you seal the metal opening behind it as the piece won't be airtight even when bolted down. Get a bunch of duct or painters tape and seal that opening in the hatch then poke holes in the tape where the trim screws are going to go - that's the only way to be sure its air-tight.

Absolutely agree, just passing on what we did/worked

There is one on the ZCCA page but all it is, is me opening the door and having smoke pour out. It really is as simple as throwing the machine in the back of the car with all the windows up/hatch down and waiting. I didn't dangled the cord out of the window and rolled it all the way up, then sealed the rest of the area (maybe an inch) with painters tape. Sucking smoke in from inside the car arguably works better. I had someone hold the fog machine near the hatch, and placed the shop vac hose in the trunk area and squeezed my way back there as well with the vac on. You do not need to seal the car, just having the vacuum on is good enough (my doors and windows were open for example). I hope that helps!

You absolutely are. Just tape it shut in the interim - you're not losing anything but braincells outside of a bit of ducttape

Glad to hear it but I'd be really nervous to remove the lights and sever that 'glued' seal

We found that after the car fully pressurizes, the larger leaks show themselves but the smallest ones stop which didn't make sense but that's what happened. The rivet leak for example only showed itself after we held the smoke machine behind the car and turned on the vacuum

All of the above. I will say, though regarding the trim panel, I sealed the back of it with a bunch of tape then poked holes in the tape where the screws would go. That trim panel tends to sag since its so old and no longer seals that hole. EDIT: I forgot to add that I found the reproduction hatch gaskets were a bit too small and ended up ungluing itself in the top area by the dome light since it was too tight. I ended up buying the OEM one but it wasn't cheap (I think around $250) but worth it at the end of the day.