chaseincats

There shouldn't be an issue with the pump since it is brand new but couldn't hurt. Could you take a picture of how you have the hose routed to avoid the potential of it rubbing on the axel?

Right, I was curious if the FPR was letting fuel bleed past and into the tank, so I clamped the line that comes after the FPR in the same way as I tested to see if the car was losing pressure after the fuel pump, so I clamped the line that heads into the fuel rail

The FPR is good. I tested it by clamping off the return line (the hose that comes out of the lower outlet of the fuel rail) and let it sit overnight. The car had the hard start issue. I then instead clamped off the inlet hose (the one coming from the fuel pump) and the next morning the car started without issue. That is how I determined how to test which item is not holding fuel/fuel pressure when shut off.

I remember the ideal way I saw was to loop the hose up and over one of the metal things under the car (working on this was so long ago i don't remember what 'metal thing' it was) but that ended up making the tank line angle like this: /-\ which hindered fuel flow. Could you take a picture of how you have yours routed?

The wrong fittings meaning the clamps on each hose? This is the setup that I've had on there for a decade so it's odd its having this issue now that I changed to new hoses.

Do you have a link to that part (or the hose sizes) and I'll pick it up? The one I have is the same outlet size on both size which is why the larger hose slips over the tank one with the metal piece in the middle. Also besides the zip tie I added, how did these lines used to be held up?

Fair point, I'll give it a shot. As a side note, with the tank house outlet and the fuel pump inlet hoses being a different sizes, the PO had a metal cylindrical adapter that he popped into the tank hose side, put the fuel pump hose over it and clamped it down (this is of course on the low/no pressure side since it is just where fuel flows down into the pump from the tank). The car has always been setup like this and that joint has never smelled like fuel - but I was always curious if using an adapter like that is how all 280z folks overcome this issue. See below picture for what I'm referring to - you obviously can't see the metal adapter since it is inside/covered by the hose. The ziptie is there to hold the fuel line up.

It's standard auto parts 'buy by the foot' stuff. It's standard hose, not EFI hose if that helps diagnose the habitual hose clamp tightening issue.

I've put new lines back there and tightened the clamps a handful of times. I've really had enough of trying to find the air leak back there...

The frustrating thing is they are new air lines.

It says on the amazon page it will hold a max of 87 psi - doesn't the pump push ~40? The air leak is back near the fuel pump, that's why a check valve in the engine bay was able to hold pressure I believe.

That's perfect, thanks! I talked to one of my friends about it this morning who is an engineer of some sort and he said what is probably happening is a tiny amount of air is getting in the line from somewhere which is letting the pressure out and allowing it to flow back to the tank (like a straw with a tiny tiny tiny leak. That definitely is happening because when I pressurize the line there is a VERY faint fuel smell from the back, and I have to keep tightening the lines. It's so weak that I finally said enough - give me the check valve. I don't understand why the lines keep getting mushy enough to allow that to happen but as long as its so faint, it should be fine.

Hi all - Great news - after a very long time of chasing lead after lead, I've finally found the culprit for my hard start - gas is flowing back to the tank, oddly through my new fuel pump overnight. I ended up putting a clamp on the hose that sits between the fuel filter and fuel rail, waited 24 hours, then cranked the engine and it started right up. The odd thing is if I manually trigger the fuel pump to pressurize the rail, then crank the engine, it still acts as if the rail is completely dry - which is confusing to me since the clamp method noted above is in theory keeping fuel in the rail in the same way as priming the rail by manually triggering the fuel pump would be. This is the pump I have on it now - don't all fuel pumps have check valves or are they external and I simply don't have one? I'm planning on splicing this check valve between the filter and rail (where my clamp was) which should work I'd think, or is there a better way of going about this?

Wow so the flappy bit is supposed to flap around when closed it seems

Hi all - Inside my 78's center console cover is a rectangular piece of metal that flaps around along with another piece that looks like it pops into a small hole but won't line-up to fit. Below is the flapping piece I'm talking about along with a quick video I made which should be of more help. The video is here. Curious what this is for, how to connect it, and if I am missing a piece to do so. Any ideas? -chase

Understood, thanks!

Hi all - now that the car is running properly, stops, and the new interior is sitting pretty, I'm looking for new things to do because keeping the car in one piece is difficult for me haha My indicator switch doesn't click and hold into place like others do which is to say I need to hold the stalk up to make a right turn and when I let go it falls back down into the neutral position. The indicator electrical functionality works perfectly well, it's just the physical portion where I need to hold the switch up is the issue. Is this a 'you need to replace it' issue or is there something in there that I need to bend or something?

I ended up purchasing the pre-wired connector from thezstore and then using those solder/heat shrink sleeves to join it to the harness. Besides the pins having corrosion in the plastic plug itself (the AFM's teeth were fine), I had to keep snipping further and further down the harness until I got to copper wires without any green to join the new AFM connector to. The car now starts VERY quickly and has an incredibly capable torque curve to the point where I'd forget to shift because there was torque wherever you were on the tach. I know everyone swaps out their injector/temp sensor connectors, but folks should really not overlook replacing this one. I've had the car over 10 years now and it has never ever felt this capable. Swap this connector.

Gotcha - so you just snipped the connector off, crimped on the new one and called it a day?

Fair enough 😭

When I went through the large ECU connector test using the efi bible, the temp sensor value came out around what the air temperature was in the garage. Do you think it still could be that wire even if the car runs perfectly after a hard start?

Ok so I cleaned all of the terminals on both the connector and AFM side and plugged everything back in with de-oxit and its harder to start than ever. I don't understand this at all...

Thanks - I'll grab one of these and see how it comes out. If it still looks not-great I'll look into replacing the connector as a last-ditch effort

thanks

Gotcha. I had my injector connectors replaced and the coolant temp/thermotime done but not the afm's. Sounds great, thanks.