chaseincats

So in that case, it sounds like you set the baseline with the potentiometer on the temp sensor and fine tune it with the afm?

what would the difference be then between adding this resistor vs messing with the AFM? Would it garner the same result then?

correct, sorry if it didnt read that way - this is tricking the ecu telling it that the car is running at 175 when it isnt to modify/stabilize the fuel mixture the ecu provides

Hi all I was doing some reading and found that a lot of folks have been adding a potentiometer in line with the temp sensor so the efi doesnt keep leaning out the mixture according to temperature. I was reading that the efi runs the most stable with the car at 175 which means keeping the resistor reading at around 300 ohms. If I were to add that and set the 1k resistor to about half, wouldn't that mean it is constantly richening the sensor's reading by 500 ohms? What I'm getting at is my car will run at around 185 idling but 170 on the highway. If I'm looking for the engine to be reading a constant 175, the potentiometer trick would just tell the computer it is constantly running cooler regardless of rpm and wouldn't really do what I'm looking for, correct? The best writeup I found at AtlanticZ here. Any ideas? -chase

same here

did those lugs cure the shake you had?

Let me know if they work in getting rid of the wobble

I'd be concerned some of the yellow stuff that leaked out would be the oil that's in the system for the compressor

Not sure since I don't have those wheels (I have 280zx 6-spoke ones).

Are you using the acorn lugs with beveled edges?

Update on this. I tried a friends' 280zx iron cross wheels yesterday which do not shake on his car but did shake on mine. The only difference is I used my lugs which have a straight shaft where as his have a beveled edge ("acorn" lug nuts) which might hold the wheels on better. Any thoughts?

Good to know - I'll give it a shot thanks all!

Sorry I missed that - It's OEM wiring

Sorry, when you said owners manual, I was thinking about the car's harness capability. Disregard Looks like the mystery has been solved!

These speakers showed up at my place the other day so if the wattage was the problem, this should fix it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9T0RJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Just out of curiosity, why would lower wattage speakers in this car fail?

I was able to find the model number - the head unit is a Pioneer DEH-6300UB

If I did, I don't recall doing it. The car did come with a big stupid sound system/amp which I promptly removed. It's possible the PO did something to get that thing to work but I believe I removed all of it.

Not sure where the black wire is goes to in these cars but its from the stock harness As far as I know there isn't a separate amp since these go through the stock harness to the radio

Honestly I'm not sure since the head unit came with the car. I'll grab the model number off the unit tonight and see if I can find the manual.

The head units manual?

The speakers keep blowing every year or two. Regarding the volume it really isn't very loud, just loud enough so I can hear them while on the freeway. I took them out yesterday and the blown one had some rubber insulation or something dangling (it looked kind of like like a rubber band that fit between the cone and magnet). For the record, these were the speakers that I'd bought twice and blown twice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I got some JBLs this time so we'll see I guess

Yep, no DC voltage on the multimeter and a dim bulb on the test light when the clip was connected to the body. I probed the power wire, not the ground.

Wow this makes sense. Basically my speakers kept blowing out after about a year so I thought it was because of the beating they take being bolted directly to the metal of the car so I insulated one with a rubber grommet between the speaker metal and bolt which saved one side but not the other. So you're telling me that my testlight lighting up when I touched the power wire to the speaker with music playing is bad and can blow speakers even at a low volume?

That does and since I had the volume at a mid level, the bulb being half-lit makes sense then. Thanks EDIT: Why wouldn't setting the multimeter to DC work though? Doesn't the car run off of DC power?

Hi guys, I just noticed when replacing my speakers that the voltage going to the speakers themselves is very low. I used a test light and the light that shines from the left and right speaker power wires is very dim. I tried using a multimeter for an exact reading but I must not be doing something wrong because it's reading basically 0. Is the speaker voltage stepped down from 12v or are they supposed to be getting a full 12v?