chaseincats

Any way to clear these without disassembling the head/block and shipping it off to a machine shop?

I believe its coolant since its white (not blue) and has a sweet smell

Good point - is there a way to check/fix that without sending the head and block to a machine shop?

Oil looks good - it's always thrown a small puff of white coolant smoke on a hard acceleration gear change though

I have an air/fuel gauge on here and it sits at 13.8 at idle which is pretty standard. Cruise is 14.2-14.7 depending on speed and WOT is around 11ish.

This was an aftermarket thermostat with an off-set valve. I'd definitely agree that could be the case but the thermostat I had in there previously was only a couple years old and a genuine nissan part with a centralized valve but after changing to this thermostat the issue didn't change.

Unfortunately the problem with the old rad/thermostat/water pump/fan clutch persists with the new rad/thermostat/water pump/fan clutch even after burping it.

I'd give that a shot but I got a new radiator and took it for its maiden voyage last Thursday when I noticed the car still had the issue

Hey gang, got an odd one for you. My car used to sit rock solid at 170 (has a 170 degree thermostat) but within the past year that's become more variable depending on if I'm sitting idle or driving. If sitting idle in 95 degree weather, it will go a little past half which I know isn't bad but the fact that it used to sit rock-solid at 170 regardless of weather tells me there's something wrong and even though its not severe it's annoying lol. I've changed the fan clutch, thermostat, water pump, checked fanbelt tightness, changed coolant, used a flushing chemical, and even got a brand new radiator but while the temperature isn't moving as much, the needle still moves depending on if idling or driving. There is definitely rust in the system because the PO used tap water and ever since I got it years ago, its been a game of 'how much rust will come out with this flush' (its always less but there nevertheless). I've also cleaned the temp gauge harness connector/sensor outlet and nothing has changed. I'd have thought it was the temp gauge if the car didn't go back to 170 like it used to while driving - but since it does, it tells me the temp gauge hasn't lost calibration and the coolant temperature really is changing. Any ideas?

huge help as always captain, thanks!

I would need to use the zx relay in combination with the zx door buzzer im guessing?

be sure to only press in the area denoted to. pressing in the middle will probably break the lens at this point

yep

the dome light. the map light ive never changed but that requires you to take the hvac panel out (4 screws)

Read my 2nd post here: https://www.zcar.com/threads/get-your-z-clock-working-for-3-88.420916/

pull it out of the trim piece its sitting in - just kinda jiggle it down. the bulb can then be popped out from the other side of the housing. you are right to be concerned about shattering the lens, its fragile at this point but changing the bulb as long as you don't smack the lens somehow doesn't have anything to do with the lens.

Here's a potentially dumb question. Is it possible to swap in the open-door 280zx doorbell buzzer into a 280z?

Gotcha, we're in different baskets then

I had the same issue and discovered it was the wheels. Both sets I had, had their lug nut holes wallowed out a bit and were somewhat ovular. So even though the lug nuts were on there tight, the wheel could still move a millimeter or so in the lug nut hole creating the steering wheel vibration. I did the same as you in replacing basically the whole front of the car and having the tires balanced multiple times until I tried other wheels.

Does it have the mount holes for the original fan shroud?

It fit in without having to bend the mounting arms or anything?

Wow this really looks OEM. I'll give them a call - thanks!

That looks like a copper not aluminum radiator, correct? I just checked their site here and it seems they don't carry it anymore 😞

I took it to Bill's radiator in Plano a few years ago where they acid bathed it, rodded it, and welded all the cracks shut up because the metal was so thin at that point the welds didn't hold, and their work only lasted about 6 months. I've just been driving it as-is for a while but the radiator finally started saying enough a few months back.

Hi guys, My current copper/original radiator has had it, it's cracked at the top and full of sediment so it's not cooling well and needs to go. I've heard horror stories about the aluminum radiators on ebay with the tabs not matching up with the mounting ones on the car. Does anyone know a brand that is literally a drop-in fit without having to bend tabs/drill/mess with the car to get it to fit? I would also like to continue using the belt-driven fan and so the original fan shroud would need to be mountable on it too. I know everyone says the aluminum ones don't cool as well but that never made sense to me since modern car radiators are aluminum as I understand it.