chaseincats

Have some main/idle jets & emulsion tube pictures. It looks like they say: main jet/emulsion tube: 60F6, F11 idle jet: 125 Any ideas?

He's out of town until Monday - I'll get back to you then. Thanks for all your help so-far. @240260280 Gotcha on the main and idle jets, any recommended stats for emulsion tube?

Will he have to measure the opening hole, or will the size be stamped on the jet?

Thanks, I'll pass the message along.

Yeah, that's what's so strange about it and leads me to believe maybe the jets that kit comes with are too large?

Since it's a 260 it has both - a mechanical pump in the front and an electric in the back. It has an in-line pressure regulator on there set to 2. I believe this is the regulator he has: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/mr--gasket-4367/performance-16477/engine-16841/fuel-system-16571/fuel-pressure-regulators-17798/37354b4805ef/mr-gasket-fuel-pressure-regulator/9710/4514726/1978/nissan/280z?pos=1 EDIT: He only has an electric fuel pump in the back set to 2.5 psi

Ok - let me msg my pal

Question for you guys - I have a friend who bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-DCOE-Kit-fits-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Triple-Performance-40-DCOE-K659/272778769560?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&fbclid=IwAR1-Pa61k0L6wA2H0mXxTlwqbQ5MLFtBQT5KGbX4TlrUgjEMWnvBwIyfpWE Even with the air mixture screw set to max-lean, the exhaust out of this car is so rich it burns your eyes within a few seconds. Are the jets this kit comes with too aggressive? -chase

Wow, I had no idea that was there. I just took a look and the latch was bolted in all the way in the down position. My guess is they had it that way with the old deteriorated seal on it. I moved it up quite a bit and the hatch closed really well. Is there a calibration spec for this? For example, is it a "drop it from 1/4 height and it shouldn't latch but if dropped from 1/2 height it should" type of spec?

The latch is connected to a patch panel so that might be the root cause - the panel installed improperly. That said, with the hatch closed, the middle of the hatch seems to slightly bow out when compared to the body lines. I also just tried to close it with the windows down and to no avail - it will just sit open on the seals.

Is there a way to raise the hat shut lines so that I don't have to keep slamming the hatch to close it? I have an OEM seal on it and have had it for a while and still seem to have to slam the hatch. Is my hatch adjusted incorrectly?

I have a california car so I'm guessing its there somewhere haha - I'll check the fsm EDIT: I found it - check and see if you have it, it is this gold pod and the wires going to it are solid blue and solid black. I'm guessing to engage that we just bridge those 2 wires?

Is there a way to trick the ECU into going into high-altitude mode?

Zcon will be in Colorado Springs in 2021 - i plan on driving up to try it, maybe you can give it a 2nd shot then haha

Were you ever able to figure out what went wrong/what you could modify to go higher?

Thank you so much for these great ideas, I'll tackle them one by one: Fuel: I tried the pump priming method but that didn't change things. Timing: I recently changed distributors to a rebuilt one (the old one's center bushing was dying) and with both OEM distributors I get the same result. The car is also timed at 10 degrees at idle and runs smooth as glass. Compression: Not sure about the compression (kind of afraid to look haha) but the car runs really well and has great highway pull as-is. Spark: I changed the plugs last year to the iridium plugs with new ngk leads and all the recommended tune-up brands/gear to no change. The car also has some sort of ignition box made by "Jacobs electric." The one spark related issue I can think of is the center terminal on my distributor cap is semi melted - I put some ox-guard on the side of the terminal walls and plug and I believe that helped though.

I've tried that and get the same result (I should have mentioned I tried that)

Is it possible to improve cold start cranking time? The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc and runs great once its started. It's also worth noting that after the car has started once, it will start considerably quicker the next key turn (demonstrated on the video). Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiT8P_TLuLM My old mechanic said it simply does this because the engine "just takes longer to build pressure than other cars." There are no vacuum leaks (checked with a cigar) but there is oil blowby via either worn piston rings or valve seals (I know that due to there being a small amount of oil on the plugs) but I'm not sure if that could be the reason. Note: this video was created when it was about 80 degrees out so the cold start injector was not firing. Any ideas? -chase

Thanks

Quick question for you guys, I need to remove the hatch to glue some outer weatherstripping. I remember reading that if you take the wrong screws/bolts off the hatch, it's a pain to get the hatch to close again properly. Which should I take off in the below picture to not disturb the closing alignment of the hatch, the screws boxed in red or the bolts boxed in blue? Any ideas? -chase

Right, they told me the same thing before they sent a replacement. 😕

Gotcha - it's just strange that we have to do that on a brand new part

Update: I received a replacement fuel sending unit after my first one from zcardept started to engage the fuel warning light when the tank wasn't low on fuel. After a few weeks of driving with the new sending unit, this new one started lighting the warning light even on a full tank. I'm not sure what the issue is with the thermister on these, but it just seems to be a design flaw.

Coincidentally I cleaned the bullet connectors & afm connector a week before the car died and it ran better than it ever had. I also smoked the engine last week and no leaks could be found. Just checked the fpr and no leak. tach needle is perfect too. This is so strange... EDIT: the coolant temperature sensor connector bullet connector popped out. Thanks for the tip.

Alright so I increased the idle, timed it to 10 degrees, then brought the idle back down to 800. It’s running so rich now that it burns your eyes when you stand behind it. this makes no sense at this point. any ideas?