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chaseincats

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Everything posted by chaseincats

  1. So I just went downstairs to test it and here is what I found: The booster will hold vacuum indefinitely if vacuum pumped and the pedal isnt pushed Vacuum pressure is lost when the pedal is being depressed and when returning to the non-pressed stopper. If vacuum pounds >5lbs, holding the pedal in will only deplete a set amount of vacuum silently If vacuum pounds <5, holding the pedal will cause a hiss until the booster his 0 lbs of vacuum Any ideas on if this is dead or not?
  2. Thanks for both posts' explanations, that makes total sense. So that means that in order for a brake booster to be bad - it would need to not be able to hold a vacuum with the pedal not pressed and me pumping the vacuum gauge pump?
  3. Awesome, glad I don't need a new booster
  4. So I put a vacuum gauge on the booster and pumped it up all the way to 22 lbs without a problem (for at least 10 minutes until I disconnected the line). When I push the pedal, there is a hiss and vacuum pressure drops to zero. Is that how brake boosters are supposed to work (holding vacuum until the pedal is pressed)?
  5. It's a top mounted unit
  6. Hi guys, My brake booster definitely has a small but increasing vacuum leak. I know it's leaking because if i hit the brake pedal the engine rpm slightly rises. I noticed yesterday the brakes really arent what they used to be when going at speed (new pads were put on about 8 months ago and the car has probably been driven fewer than a few thousand miles so that isn't it). Also it wouldn't be the master cylinder as a new one was installed last July. My question is, I'd like to get a larger non-vacuum leaky booster on there and I hear the 79-81 ZX's 10'' booster is the way to go. I can't seem to find a definitive yes or no as to if that will bolt right onto my '78 without needing to modify the piston length or requiring a new master cylinder which which works well currently. Any ideas? -chase
  7. lol what im gonna do is wait until it says empty again (9 gallons remaining) and bend it one direction or the other until it reads 1/3 full now that i know a solution lol
  8. The tank isnt dented so I just think its that I need to bend it and yep, the tabs are lined up.
  9. gotcha, thanks guys, ill straighten the arm then
  10. By that you mean straighten the arm, right?
  11. So when I bend the arm, am I straighening the bend or bending the arm further in the same direction?
  12. Ya, a few other members of my local z club picked up the zcardepot sender units when they first came out a few months ago and all work great - yes its the factory connector, its plug-and-play.
  13. Right - both senders had clean coils (I cleaned the first one and the second one was brand new) and I'm having the same issue in the exact same portion area of the gas gauge. For reference this is the sender I got: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-sending-units/products/copy-of-fuel-tank-gauge-sending-unit-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-78
  14. Well that makes me feel better. The angle you bent it to fixes this more or less? If it does, could you take a picture of your angle and I'll bend it this afternoon.
  15. The sending unit is literally brand new and so its configured to factory spec. Wouldn't bending it undo that?
  16. Yea it acts exactly the same which is frustrating. You don't think it could be resistance in the wires when it gets to a certain amperage. Or would it be that if there was resistance in the wires it would be inaccurate all the way through the tank range?
  17. Hey guys I'm at a bit of a loss here. Problem: My gas gauge is correct until it reaches the 1/3 full mark. At that point, the needle will fall to an empty tank reading within a few miles. An empty tank reading at that time denotes 6 gallons remaining in the tank (if i take it immediately to a gas station, I will be able to put ~12 gallons in each time). Steps taken: I installed a new fuel sending unit from zcardepot which oddly didn't fix the problem. The only thing this fixed is my gas gauge needle slightly wiggled around a millimeter or 2 continually with the old unit - the new sending unit fixed that. Swapped out the dash gauge with a spare which gave more or less the same result (the other gauge read 1/8 full instead of empty). Went through each connector via the factory service manual and gave each a good blast of caig de-oxit - that said, every one of those connectors looked brand new. I've tested the gauge by filling the car up when it reads 3/4 full and the proper gallons are in there so it really does seem to be a problem only within the 1/3 to empty range of the tank. So I'm at a bit of a loss here because everything looks good including the connectors. Could there be some corrosion inside the wiring somewhere? Do these gauges fall out of calibration? Any ideas? -chase
  18. Gotcha, thanks so much for your help Ron, I'll keep you guys updated.
  19. @zclocks Do you recall how often the 1978 quartz clock is supposed to tick? I'm getting a tick exactly every 6 seconds. I remember hearing these don't tick every second but I believe every 6 seconds isn't correct. If that is indeed too slow, any ideas as to where I should look for the culprit?
  20. @zclocks Gotcha - thanks Ron. I will give this a shot and report back! -chase
  21. Hi guys, Trying to remove the hands on my 1978 280z Quartz clock to swap on the white face decal but can't seem to figure it out. I heard somewhere that you just kinda yank the hands off (straight up) but I tried that and feel I'm going to break something. Any ideas? -chase
  22. Right - I learned this the hard way a few weeks back haha
  23. Awesome, very comprehensive information - thanks
  24. I believe one of the companies who makes these are "American Racing" but does anybody know other brands who make this style wheel? -chase
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