chaseincats

Ah ok, good to know. Is the transmission chatter then a thing that happens when putting a single mass flywheel on a car designed for a double?

This is an extreme example of the single mass (light) flywheel noise - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vUdmshAsYM&t=20s I've heard shaving down the OE flywheel can weaken it to the point it may shatter if done improperly - is this true?

Great information, thanks! Which brand flywheel did you go with? Also, I've heard that these light flywheels (single mass) make this chattery noise (sounds like a diesel truck) - is that the case with yours?

Thanks so much, I didn't see that somehow. Regarding the clutch pedal pressure on the OEM pressure plate/clutch style - how tough should it be to press these pedals down? I will be replacing mine and want to keep it like what I am using now (very light pressure required). Basically asking if I buy OEM spec clutch/pressure plates how tough will it be to clutch in? -chase

How loud are these lightened flywheels? I've heard they make a noise similar to a diesel truck? Are there any lighter double mass flywheels (stock style) that are lighter which would eliminate the chatter (I can't find any)?

Hi guys, so I am having my transmission rebuilt soon and while its out I was considering having a lightweight flywheel swapped in. Do any of you folks have experience with one of these on an s30? I've read that the stock flywheel weighs around 23 lbs and all of the lightweight ones I've found online are around 10lbs. Having a flywheel that light will make street driving difficult/frustrating I'd assume (I've heard you have to kind of 'launch' the car after each stop light)? Are there any flywheels/weights you'd recommend for improved performance within reason (I only drive this in the city/freeway and never on the track). Side note: Right now, the clutch pedal is easy to depress especially compared to modern cars (fully depressing the clutch pedal is probably about as hard as flooring the brake pedal). Is this the standard OEM feel for s30s? (I'd like to get a replacement clutch kit/pressure plate with the same amount of pedal force (trying to not get a hard clutch pedal)) Any ideas? -chase

I second this. This vacuum line only receives vacuum when the throttle pedal is pressed. If you are hearing a hiss (vacuum leak) only when the throttle is pressed then it should be this port. If the vacuum line is indeed connected to the bottom of the throttlebody then it might be the distributor's vacuum advance pod's vacuum bladder is dead (this was the problem with my car. Cap off the vacuum port on the throttlebody and see if that changes anything (if thats the problem, that will be all you need to do to fix this).

Yea, thats the plan. I have a bunch of these laying around which is why I was curious.

Will the below switches work for the fuel pump cutoff setup or does the fuel pump pull more than 16amps? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXJ8POI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry I forgot to finalize this topic. What it ended up being was a huge vacuum leak in the brake booster which just so happens to plug into the carb that was giving us trouble. After we replaced the booster, we were good to go.

I would also check all of the electrical connections in the below site, maybe one of them is super corroded and making trouble: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Sorry, I forgot to update this thread. The new alternator I swapped out from oreilly's has been in for about a month and a half and everything is now perfect. Thanks gang!

Do you mean that the bullet connectors are inside the storage area behind the seats or that they might have been chopped off when the PO played with the wiring?

Hi guys, I'm trying to find the bullet connectors for the fuel pump to splice in a cutoff mechanism and cannot seem to find them ('78 280z). I looked under the passenger side carpet (behind the seat) and under the seat itself but cannot seem to find any bullet connectors. I attached a couple pictures showing the wires I'm looking at. Picture 1 shows an aerial view of the wires under the carpet (behind the passenger seat). Picture 2 shows what is under the passenger seat. Am I looking in the wrong spot? -chase

Hi guys, Any idea if the rubber grommet for the dome light switch (the switch mounted in front of the door) is still available somewhere? The one on my driver's side door crumbled when I went to change the dead switch out and am having difficulty finding a new grommet online. -chase

Not sure when they broke - the head has not come off while I've owned it. When I changed the valve cover gasket I noticed the front passenger-side bolt had its head sheered off so I easy-outed that and changed it (the bolt's head was resting behind the timing belt tensioner which was terrifying). The second broken bolt is 1 of the 4 cam tower bolts which is broken to this day because it is apparently snapped way deep in the head/block. I only noticed it while re-torqueing the head bolts when I was going through the engine tuneup chapter of the FSM.

To throw a bit of contrast in here I don't think the broken bolt is the problem here. My car had 2 broken bolts and ran for years without overheating.

gotcha - ill give it a shot, thanks!

Something must be out of alignment on mine, if that's how its supposed to look ?

Hi guys, Having a tough time figuring out how to center the HVAC selector trim piece. As you can see from the image, the trim piece is not centered within the vent panel frame once bolted in. If I forcibly center it by pushing the piece right, it will turn the fan on - so basically I'm in the situation of always having the fan on low or having the panel be off-center. Any ideas? -chase

Gotcha, thanks. The new alternator shows up Thursday. I'll get it on the car Friday and report back.

Unrelated to the alternator - since the '78 doesnt use a ballast, would upgrading to the 280zx distributor not do anything? The appeal of that upgrade is connecting the distributor directly to the coil right? Since the '78 does that already, would changing to the ZX distributor be moot, or are there other benefits im overlooking besides bypassing the ignition module for fun?

Why aren't my fusible links blowing if the current is high enough to fry the ignition module?

So all these odd gremlins suddenly appearing can be due to the alt overcharging?

The temp gauge didn't peak out, it only scooted up a bit. If I think about the temp gauge as a clock face where 9pm is cold and 3pm is max hot, the gauge went from 7pm (where it usually sits at op temp) to about 5pm within the span of 15-20 seconds after turning on the cabin fan and headlights. Does that visualization make sense? The oil pressure gauge wasn't affected btw.