chaseincats
Free Member
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Joined
Everything posted by chaseincats
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Thanks for this awesome write-up - I'll pass this along to my friend. It occurred to me today that I believe he does not have the firewall ground wire connected - could that be of consequence? Everything seems to *work* with it having been disconnected thus far...
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The car does run and the rate does not correlate to engine speed. The flasher relays are most likely original (that said so are mine and they work fine). There are no electrical modifications to the car and the bulbs remain incandescent. I have the FSM but I wasn't sure if the switch had a ground itself down the loom as there are quite a few ground symbols on its wiring diagram page.
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Will do - it's my friend's car so the next time I'm at his place I'll grab some shots.
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Hi guys, Working on a 1974 260z and ran into another weird lighting problem. The brake lights work as intended with the running lights off, but when the running lights are switched on, hitting the brake pedal does not brighten the rear lights. I checked the bulbs and the brake light bulbs are indeed dual filament like they should be. The odd thing is that when the running lights are switched on, both filaments are lit, that shouldn't be the case right (assuming one filament is for brake lights and the other is for running lights)? Any ideas as to how to get the brake lights to engage with running lights on?
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Hi guys, So got a weird one for you. We've been doing some work on a 1974 260z and the turn signals on the car don't blink in a standard rhythm. They randomly blink super quickly, super slowly, and everything in between when engaged with the signal stalk. I'm guessing this is a grounding issue with the turn signal stalk itself, right? I can't seem to find where the turn signal grounds out to , does anyone know? Any ideas? -chase
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If you rented it from your local parts store, it should have come with at least one in their box
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I still don't understand how the car is running w/o the fuel pump going
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totally understandable, let me know how it goes
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The problem is with your new clutch master not slave cylinder's piston length. Your clutch pedal is connected to a push rod (piston) which directly goes into your master cylinder. The piston you have is (probably) too short which is in turn not able to push enough fluid through the clutch hydrolic system to fully actuate the clutch fork thus disengaging the clutch enough to change gears. TL;DR: clutch master (not slave) piston length is most likely the item that isnt matching up to oem length. Compare the oem one you have on hand.
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In that case ya, it's your clutch master cylinder's pusher. Swap it out with the stock one you still have (I think you just need a pair of needle nose pliers that you can use to take off the snap-ring retainer clip).
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after swapping the master cylinder, did the clutch work at all w/o grinding?
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If you installed a new clutch master cylinder you need to swap the pusher rod (the metal bit that goes into the cylinder) because the reproductions are shorter for some reason (this was my problem). Also be sure its fully bled.
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Any luck finding the issue?
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Cool, I'll leave it as-is - thanks!
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Question for you - I've had a '78 280z for about 3 years and never changed the engine bay/gas tank fuel filters. When I look at the post gas tank clear fuel filter it looks brand new so I assume the filter in the engine bay is also looking great internally. Should I bother changing these even if they look brand new on the inside? I know these are cheap but if I don't need to change something I'd prefer not to break out the wallet.
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Here's a nice unsafe way to determine if fuel is somehow being pumped into the engine without your knowledge: unplug the fuel hose between the hardline and engine bay fuel filter, put it in a bucket, and have someone try and start the car (with the fuel pump switch off) and see if you get gas. You'll know real quick if theres some hidden pump somewhere (or if your switch isn't working/wired correctly)...
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The condenser definitely has a leak (the ac shop put dye in it) but said they couldn't solder the leak shut because the heat would just open a new hold due to the metal's age/weakness. That said, the machine they use at the store was able to get the AC charged to the point of it being proper cold which is why I don't understand why it won't take the whole can from the low side...
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Yep it was converted to 134a. The reason I think 20 isn’t enough is when my AC shop filled it up with their beefy machine the AC was freezing. With the 20lb I put in it was just coolish...
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Weird situation going on here. I'm attempting to charge my factory AC on my '78 280z. There's a non-trivial leak in the condenser but it will hold refrigerant for about a month and a half. I plugged an AC gauge/charger into the low side port and connected a r134a can, but the system only took in enough to get to about 20lb of pressure. After leaving the car running for about 15 minutes and it staying on 20lb, I shut it off and took the can out (i turned the can sideways and upside-down while charging but it never went above 20lb of pressure. When I wiggle the can I can still hear liquid in there. Is there some other liquid in these cans that do not get sucked into the system or is there an issue on my end? Here's what I'm using: Gauge/charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00620PXMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cans without leak sealer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WXQBUQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 any ideas?
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Since you directly connected the pump to the battery and it didn't turn then the pump is dead. Just go get a new pump or try @psdenno's idea and give it a smack. Also, if you have the ability (air hose) try and blow out the metal fuel line (with the pump and fuel filter hoses disconnected of course.
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Sounds good, thanks so much. Will report back.
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Hi guys, My pal just got brand new triple webers going (74 260z) and we're having a tough time getting the first carb (one closest to the firewall) to sync with the other two. When we popped the vacuum gauge into the front of each carb, we originally had a reading of "5" for the front two and "7" for the one near the firewall. After turning the screw up on the other two to "7", the carb near the firewall started reading as "10" even though we didn't make any changes to it. Any idea what we're doing wrong here? -chase
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I just got off the phone with my old Z mechanic (he exclusively does old Zs). He was saying that depending on which AFM you have, some s30s turn the pump on when the key is in 'on' like mine is doing (with the car off). I am assuming that he is referring to the 1978 air flow meter since only '78's afm had the fuel pump pin removed from the AFM by Datsun (I dont recall why). Edit - it seems that 1978 came with two AFMs depending on when it was made. earlier 1978 models share the universal 280z afm (7 pins) but some 1978 models share the 1979 280zx 5 pin model. weird
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lol fair enough. Why would it start the car up immediately after it starts once. I'd have thought that if its electrical it would have a sluggish start each time, no? Edit - ive been looking through the FSM and your chart and am a bit confused - it says 3 out of the 4 situations where the key is in 'on' have the pump being actuated without putting the key to 'start.' Am I missing something here (I'm not the best at electrical)?
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Ah, so you're saying that its pressurizing in on where it should be - so maybe its not/or delaying pushing fuel through at 'start'?
