Jump to content

chaseincats

Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by chaseincats

  1. chaseincats replied to chaseincats's post in a topic in Electrical
    I thought it was only the early 240s that didn't have that headlight relay; 280s are also missing it? Unrelated - what if I were to get an h4 housing but use h4 connector led bulbs like this - https://www.amazon.com/ICBEAMER-Canbus-Headlight-Replace-Halogen/dp/B07HCTQJMV/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=led+bulb+h4&qid=1551296553&s=automotive&sr=1-7 ?
  2. chaseincats replied to chaseincats's post in a topic in Electrical
    gotcha from what ive gathered so far, this seems to be more than just pop in some led bulbs. are there any other bulbs you would recommend I use to get more light instead of leds that are a bit more noobie friendly?
  3. chaseincats replied to chaseincats's post in a topic in Electrical
    Sounds good, thanks
  4. chaseincats replied to chaseincats's post in a topic in Electrical
    Sorry, I didn't see that. I'll pick some up now, thanks!
  5. chaseincats replied to chaseincats's post in a topic in Electrical
    Gotcha, maybe it was just the one I got. I'll give a different brand a shot, thanks!
  6. chaseincats replied to chaseincats's post in a topic in Electrical
    I tried to put some H4s in there a while back and since they weren't sealed beam and were a bit longer in the back (where the bulb plugged in) I couldn't screw the splash-guard (not sure if that is the correct term for the dome in the back of the bulb that keeps the water from the wheel well out) back into the fender. I've seen posts on here of people who had to lengthen that so that LED bulbs would fit. Are there bulbs now that fit without having to do that modification?
  7. chaseincats posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Question for you guys. Are there any LED headlights that simply bolt into the standard housing without having to modify/lengthen what the car comes with? -chase
  8. Thanks for all the information guys! Won't taking the distributor apart really mess with the timing of the engine/create big problems if I do/reinstall something wrong?
  9. So I just popped the cap off the dizzy, here in here am i supposed to wiggle my finger to test movement?
  10. Mine doesn't have that. So this vacuum pod won't work for me then?
  11. Gah, is there a way to check to see if the PO put a zx dizzy in here by chance?
  12. Awesome, I'll pick this up - thanks!
  13. I have a '78 280z. That's awesome news, did you need to make any modifications to the part so that it fit/worked/pulled the proper distance etc?
  14. Hi, Question for you guys. My distributor's vacuum advance vacuum pot's bladder has a leak and is no longer working because of it. I was able to figure out it was leaking by smoking the engine and seeing smoke coming out of the distributor cap (after capping that vacuum line off the engine ran way better). Since that part isn't sold separately anymore, is there any way to fix it or do I just need to buy a whole new distributor? -chase
  15. That's definitely true
  16. Good news, I was able to get the bolt in. We're all set, thanks so much everyone!!
  17. I'm not following. Isn't the lower control arm bolted to the ball joint which is bolted to the strut?
  18. bending the knuckle and using the jack to get everything lined up worked perfectly, thanks for the tips! I ended up getting one bolt in but the other bolt's threads got knackered so I will have to put a bolt and nut in it's place but definitely better than nothing.
  19. Thanks for your reply, I'm glad to hear I don't have to mess with those springs/struts. Regarding bending the steering knuckle, that will be pretty tough because its still connected to the tie rod end and an hour of banging on the tie rod end screw/banging on a pickle fork to separate them didn't work. Your idea with the jack and the control arm is really solid, do you think it will work though even if I can't bend the knuckle?
  20. Hi guys, (first post!), I changed the front driver lower-ball-joint but cannot get its housing (steering knuckle) to line up/bolt onto the strut. The problem is that the strut's screw mounts are angled inward, but the knuckle's aren't (see attached pic). Do I need to compress the strut to get the knuckle to line up, or is there a trick to this I am missing? I tried compressing the spring last night with some strut spring compressors, but the strut was still stuck in the down position. I came up with an idea last night but have yet to try it : Would it be possible to bolt all of the other suspension components back on and then thread an allen key (or just any bit of metal that will fit) through both the strut and knuckle mounting holes, then lower the car? Shouldn't that allow the holes to line up, or is this a bad/unsafe idea? I attached a picture of what I'm talking about with the issue boxed in red. Any ideas? -chase

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.