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god that i forgot.. i should know by now that doesnt happen very often.. actually two of them were lined up next to each other.. 240z and a 280z ??‍♂️

i wouldnt mind keeping a spare.. man i am learning quickly with this car its best to hve a spare of everything haha

i wouldve bought it from you.. i just got lucky that this weekend a 280z showed up in a nearby junkyard.. thank you!

will try to switch the ignition coil back also.. and see what happens... then maybe itll be time to switch the GM HEI MODULE.. haha

will do it.. gonna buy a dwell/tach tester and try calibrating it.. thanks!

how would you calibrate a tach ? i would imagine i would need another tool ?

nice! thank you! any advice about my tachometer issue?

I havent updated lately.. and I thought I put a nail in my problem by cleaning my fusible links.. Sure enough the same issue comes back and lingers again.. only this time around when it was happening I gave the ECU a slap and the engine idled good instantaneously .. good thing I managed to buy a spare ECU and swapped the it out.. an immediate improvement was felt theoughout the acceleration whereas before theres some spots around 2-3k where it would feel sluggish or bogging down.. it feels smooth now and idles good.. plan moving forward will be to re assess the new spark plugs to see if I was really running lean .. 2 days has passed and the car isnt having any issues lately .. crossing my finger.. anyways this now gave me some time to do some stuff.. I was able to replace my frozen tachometer and test out my two Tachometer and installed one of the better condition.. but both didnt have any response at idle but when I rev the engine the needle moves.. but at idle the needle stays at 0rpm.. this happens to both of my working tachomoter.. i am running a pertronix flamethrower II .6ohms .. new refurbished distributor , sparkplug wires.. heres a video.. any advice? I also managed to finally replace the check valve on the return line before the gas tank.. also replaced a broken old fuel pressure vac hose but couldnt find an exact outer diameter as the old hose .. correct inner diameter though and it fits snug.. got around installing an inline fuel pressure gauge i bought from z car depot.. only to find out the car idles at 30psi? the car runs and idles fine.. should i be worried cuz of the 2-3psi desireable im missing? when i tested my fuel pressure with a tool i rented the psi reading was at 32psi at idle and 38psi without turning on the engine.. btw when i pull the FPR vac hose off the pressure goes up.. 38-40psi.. thank you!

thank you! yes excuse the video.. didnt want to bore the audience haha.. yea i am still planning on redoing the bullet connectors.. will proceed and clean every single connector throughout the whole car one day at time.. oh i will also change my sparkplugs and re assess if my air fuel ratio is off the chart.. and will go from there.. hopefully this was it! thank you all!

Good morning! So a little updatet this morning.. 1978 280z driving better for the first time in the morning... Things I did last night 2/26 1. Replaced vac hose from Fuel Pressure Regulator 2. Cleaned all fusible links prongs , all of the relay in engine bay by passenger side and connectors. 3. Installed a inline spark tester Maybe the fusible links was my problem the whole time.. crowsing my finger and hoping that this solves my issue.. will continue cleaning more connectors.. also ECU ground etc.. Heres a video from this morning..

no problem! im not snow bound and sometimes i cant drive this car..

a video of the car driving fine later in the day.. some parts are fast forwarded.. this is on my way home from work .. i actually stopped by a auto store to buy an inline spark tester.. thanks

so i can buy a 1976 ecu for my 1978 280z?

hahaha already took off the panel .. will leave it off for now so i can kick it next time..lol i shouldve taken a picture when i took it off.. but honestly it has a very light carbon build up.. after shaking it and scraping some off the egr plate .. it was like maybe 1 tablespoon.. but even after cleaning that last night the car died again this morning.. i manage to remove my egr valve last night and i didnt break the bolts / studs haha.. so earlier.. when the car was having a rough idle.. i manually tried pushing the egr valve and the car died.. what should i expect if i delete my egr valve? btw Zed should I still the the GM HEI conversion?

Hello so just a little update .. I was able to pull the 35pin ecu connector during lunch time and run some numbers.. so to begin with I would say its about 55-62 degrees F outside.. give or take i just looked at my phone for current outside temp and it says 60 degrees... mid day 12:30pm... so I tested the following.. Air Temp Sensor: results 2.83 - 2.85 (Terminal #6 & #27) Water Temp Sensor: results - 2.36 (terminal #13 & body ground) Thermotime Switch: results continuity exist 58.8 ohms , CSV disconnected, terminal #27 & body ground. Throttle Valve Switch - still fails at “idle switch check” will try to clean later today.. but passes the full throttle switch check anything greater than 34 degrees .. the ohm reading was greater than 34 degrees.. and heres a picture of the pipe under the egr valve and some of my exhaust manifold and downpipe.. so i guess i can cross out .. AFM/Air Temp sensor Water Temp Sensor Thermotime switch Known items/issues that has a problem.. TVS at idle .. loose bullet connectors for water temp sensor taped up throttle body boot lean air fuel ratio mixture I also disconnected the vac hose off the FPR and its not wet .. its actually pretty dry and i had a hard time hooking it back up.. thanks always!