cclxxxz

a quick update from last night.. AFM tested and great numbers except im not getting any resistance from my air temp sensor.. am i missing something to this step? i tested my friends also and no reading.. made sure i cleaned the contacts and i even opened my AFM and tested from the inside.. i also tested the water temp sensor in car while it was cold (didnt get a chance to check when it was hot) insulation was good and the reading i was getting was about 1.1 ohms .. i also checked my EGR Valve and i thought it was fair clean and somewhat new the valve isnt stuck .. i also found a small crack in the BOOT between the AFM and TB. I just wrapped it with electrical tape as much as I can for now until i can get a new one.. i have noticed a couple things before calling it a night.. when i wiggle the bullet connectors (i cleaned them all but after cleaning and filing its a little loose specifically the water temp sensor wires.) the cars idle would change sometimes it sounds like its idling better sometimes its idling rough.. so i just taped the connectors in placed .. to keep them tight and pushed agaisnt each other.. i also noticed that the two prong water temp and thermotime swich connectors are both after market and it was soldered after the bullte connectors nearby the thermostat housing.. after securing the bullet connectors, i tried slightly wiggling the whole harness trying to fogure out if its the connectors by the sensor and the idle also changes.. ill try and see if i can replaced those two prong connectors .. new water temp sensor installed btw..

will do thanks!

I tested my Air Flow Meter today..cleaned it , inspexted the flap and also my friends to compare.. same result on both AFM his also has No Resistance when testing 6 & 27. So i am getting the right resistance for the following terminals except for #6 & #27 which is the Air Temp Sensor.. Terminal 8 & 6 , Results - 199.8 Terminal 9 & 8 , Results - 114.2 Terminal 6 & 27 , Results - No Resistance

Good morning! So yesterday.. I replaced the water temp sensor.. cleaned the bullet connectors.. i also test for continuity on all of the pins in the ecu.. i am not quite convince with my test ill probably redo it and document it and take a video. so when testing for continuity any type of reading means its good correct? i am getting some reading on the following.. TVS (full throttle) AFM ATS WTS Air Regulator Thermotime Switch Ground Circuits all good.. except for TVS at Idle switch .. am i suppose to get a continuity when in this position? i also tested.. Revolution trigger signal Power line circuit Cylinder #1-6 and all 12v+ I did a fuel pressure test.. with a brand new fuel pump and fuel filter.. i also dropped the tank and inspected if i have any rust above and the tank looks good just dusty.. i can hear the pump working and making a sound.. the ground and positive wires are in good conditionat the pump.. (although i want to track the wiring along inside of the car to check its not grounding out) when i performed the fuel pressure test.. i followed the step by step of the FSM by releasing pressure first by jumping the CSV.. then disconnecting the starter and ignition coil.. i uploaded to video here.. it looks like its reading 38psi.. and when i connected everything and with the car idling .. its at 32psi.. car idling.. and today 2/25.. on my way to work.. just about 10mins of driving .. the car died while in 5th gear in the FWY.. pulled over and kept on trying to start the car.. eventually the car started and drove fine got to the gym.. and on my way to work from gym.. about 5mins of driving the car died again.. after trying to start the car a couple of time.. started fine again and i got to work.. during lunch break i checked my spark plugs..

downloaded and reading it..

downloaded and reading it..

can a going bad MAF cause this problem?

ive given up.. i dont know where to buy a replacement? do you guys know? thanks

i guess the same problem is back.. so the car has a rough idle and dies when i apply gas... when i disconnect the water temp sensor the car idles better and can stay on .. and i am able to rev the engine but it sputters a bit.. i check for continuity on the ecu plug for thermotime switch, water temp sensor.. cold start valve, air regulator, afm, tps (only at full throttle i get a reading)... i dont know where to begin again.. i did fix my negative battery terminal .. i replaced the water temp sensor.. new ignition parts.. wires, plugs dizzy and coil..

Hello, a little update today .. 2/21 .. same routine .. but this time i didnt have any issue.. the car didnt die on me.. so im hoping that it was indeed electrical and i have fixed the issue.. thank you all for the help! now i can move on to the next problem ..

its a check valve .. also in the return line .. for vapor..

so i found this valve.. from a 2007 350z..

i did all of the grounds and connections inside the engine bay.. need to go over the passenger footwell, fuseblock , ignitioj box inside the engine bay as well and the ecu.. i am hoping so .. thanjs !

Hello, I was able to fix the battery terminal and the condenser.. drove the car to try and mimic the driving style and no problem.. even was revving as hard as i can and car running fine

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Newly-6mm-Aluminium-Inline-Check-Valve-Fuel-Diesel-Gas-Liquid-One-Way-Non-Ret-ST/163226705309?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180306143914%26meid%3Deea6676cf6514bc5b48ca51dde69b3ad%26pid%3D100935%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D282897263275%26itm%3D163226705309&_trksid=p2349624.c100935.m2460 i cant find an alternative.. would this work?

thank you that helps alot! i would have to find one until then i think the filter on mine would just be fine..

thank you zed! i guess leaving that filter there for now is okay until i find one.. thank you!

so is it normal that nothing leaks when i disconnect the lines of the filter i showed? also why is it mounted in the rear if its a pulse damper? and i cant to seem to find who sells this item.. can i just remove it? or leave it alone?

ill make some calls and see if i can get that same one.. thank you

going to replace the terminal for sure.. my distributor wires are now good .. the condenser i need to resolve and figure out why i have an extra lead.. but you did mention its for the radio and nothing happens when i disconnect the other lead off the condenser.. the fusible link connextion im confused to see why the previous owner would cut them.. anyways it is still using the correct fusible link .. ill fix the battery terminal connection..and see what happens.. also i noticed the connector behind the ignition switch was loose.. “general search and destroy mission” what do you mean exactly ? lol

so i disconnected the one lead to the condenser (for radio) and nothing happens this is at idle and normal running temp.. but i did find that my negative terminal to my battery is broken..

will watch it in a bit thank you!

Hello, I have a 1978 280z and i noticed this filter looking mounted underneath the car by the fuel pump.. when i disconnect the lines nothing comes out .. and the filter looks brand spanking new and it seems like nothing is going through it.. the filter doesnt look OEM but the mounting points look OEM..

i found this on the web.. it seems like we have the same setup and his isnt connected to anything also..

thank you for this image i will add a filter when i get around it this weekend.. its strange because it seems like its a factory location because of the mounting points .. its just the filter itself doesnt look oem..