Chino 240Z

Marty, if you use any solvent try it on the edge or somewhere it won't show incase it attacks to old plastics? "Goof-off" is mild & pretty safe. I also like using "Oops" I get it at Wal-Fart. So far oops has worked a little bit better than goof-off for me and never messed up anything I've painted with plastic model building. It smells gooood too.. :stupid: Older overspray may be little more difficult to remove than newer. Hope it is more recent from a sloppy painter?

Cool deal Marty! Glad to hear problem gone and had a perfect track day. We got back last night from our track day and was also awsome. Was worried about the rain we had the day before, but it cleaned up our track with 85 to 90 degree sun and puff white clouds in a blue sky. I'll put up a couple pics tomorrow. Everything worked great, cut 2 more seconds on my best lap times and still feeding off the high! An insullation gasket will do it I guess. You might be able to spray some starting fluid around intake gaskets, caps, hoses and such (caution flameable) to help find leaks. The motor will change in it's idle as the ether is taken in. But you might already know that... anyways... Thumbs up for a great track day! Cheers Craig

...maybe you can get that shop to change the U-joints out for you? you deserve it! Sounds like you are keeping a cool head about you. Things just may work out better than before. Guess it could be a lesson for us all when using a cell phone? "Hang-up and Drive" Anyways, Thumbs-Up Dude! or maybe fingers up this time, give that thumb some time off. Hang in there!

Okay Jackboxx, are you up for a ride of you life? Here are some additional dates for WSIR. If you are in Moreno Valley the track is about 1hr 45min, just up in Palmdale. Tues. October 25th by ACRA Wed. November 16th by OTR Wed. December 14th by ACRA ACRA site http://www.americancarracing.com/events.html OTR site http://opentrackracing.com/ WSIR site http://www.willowspringsraceway.com/home/home.asp Track dates in Calif. site http://track-days.org/page1.html See Marty, if you come to California you can spend most your time at the track! Caution this can be extremely addicting

OH man, it's gona be great. Weather cooling down, track gets faster, lots of events happening again. The crazy T-shirts are the icing on the cake! But I do think you all have some greener and nicer looking tracks out your way. Ours often look like lunar landscape surroundings... :nervous: but we're not out there site seeing anyways.

Just spreading the word, of up coming track date at So. Calif. Willow Springs International Raceway. Can't beat the price for seat time in the Z on the track. We'll be there... hope to see some other Zs there! Craig & Cindy ------------------ OPEN TRACK RACING Just a quick reminder Racer Buddies... Our next event is scheduled for Sept 21, 2005 on the big track at Willow Springs. This event will be run in the same fashion as all previous events. We will have three run groups, beginner, intermediate and advanced. Each run group will get (5) 30 minute run sessions totaling 2 1/2 hours of track time. For all newbies or people who want to attend, we will have classroom instruction followed by on-track instruction. As always, all paid participants will get an all you can eat BBQ lunch and an OPEN TRACK RACING shirt. The price for this event is $145.00. Please remember that all OTR events are open to all that want to attend, so please tell a friend! Thanks, and See You at the Track! http://www.opentrackracing.com/ ---------------------------

for differrent folks!

That is what I was going to say. Ya the V8 done right is hot! no doubt, but a typical guy doing a transplant won't go the extra cost or time setting it in right for performance track driving. Many swaps ever get that 48/52 or know what do do with the extra HP in the small car? Would be nice to have a second car.

Not so sure the v8 is going to help the handling, cornnering, tire wear and braking... at least without lots of upgrades in these areas. But it may impress you on the 1/4mile, or long straights of a road coarse? Auto-crossing will still be fun and give you a hand full to your suprize with a stock Z too!

Oh yea, 240ZMan is right. You can hear it inside the car. I like to hear sounds like this, adds more to the excitement. If you use a 1/4" rubber pad as an insulator under the mounting clamp, the noise in the car is reduced. If it's a street car you would need to think about this. I think I only notice it in the pits or in the grid lanes. After that everything is too loud!

With that regulator you can also run a pressure guage from one of the 2 outputs. I mounted the pump on a bracket next to the tank and ran power from a switch on the dash to the pump, then the ground wire of the pump to the frame at the pump. Now, I have a emergency cut-off switch on the cowl outside for someone to cut-me off from the outside if I got into trouble, or I can kill a master switch from the inside on the dash, or I switch off the fuel pump with it's own switch so I can run down the gas level in the fuel bowls. This way it won't have alot of gas in it to boil if it got hot, or to store it in the garage it won't have fuel setting in the bowls. Just before I fire it up I let the fuel fill the bowls a come up to pressure a few more seconds before I excite the starter. If you go that route, let me know if you need info. on this stuff and I shoot it over to ya.

Well, I would remove the top fuel bowl cover, the gasket my tear on you if it sticks? I bought a bunch from ZTherapy to keep on hand. Lifting the cover, do it slowly so not to knock the floats out of whack, they might need to be bent alittle more to run a tiny bit more fuel in the bowls. The float is only a rough adjustment anyways, then you fine tune your fuel with the nozzle adjustment at the bottom of the carbs. You can just lift the cover some to peek in and besure you don't have sediments or something that gets sucked down over the hole in the bottome of the bowl. If they are clean, and your car runs like you have your carbs adjusted pretty much the best you can? I would consider the mechanical fuel pump next. I think the Holley red pump at the tank and a regulator at the firewall works great. I picked up a Holley blue pump which I think is 14psi, and again I knock that down with the regulator. They should come together in a kit. Summit had a good price. But my local AutoZone kicked their butt in price when I got mine. Here is an idea... http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp?part=HLY-12-802-1 http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp?part=HLY-12-801-1

If you open the fuel bowls of your SUs and they are clean, and your needles jets are clean, then I would say your stock mechanical fuel pump is not keeping up with the demand of fuel you are consuming on the straights and long hard acceleration. I wouldn't have believed it myself, even after spending 2 hours on a dyno to hunt this same problem down. I already had a electric fuel pump regulated down to 3.5psi like it should be, but still not enough fuel until I cranked up to 5psi. No more problem until that elect. fuel pump started to fail, problem back but really bad (leaking from a weep hole). New fuel pump and no more problem. I bet your car runs just fine at idle and screams to about 5200-5500 then comes the sputter, like no spark, no go, just like a rev. limiter kicking in! So did ours, crazy fuel pumps. If you stay with stock you might want to borrow one for a test, or get a new one? I was hoping you were going to tell us it's fixed. :tapemouth Craig OH ya, the Petronix is good to 11K (so they say) we had ours bench tested to 8K and was just fine, I know they work perfect on the track to 6500 to 7000.

That would be nice, but there is never a "one time". You will find that due to the extreme forces that are put on a track car, you will be doing a shake down bumper to bumper constantly. As far a brake pads go and how often you track your car, you will be changing brake pads no doubt. You may change pads often in search of a different feel in braking. Different tracks & different drivers will eat pads faster than others, and besides how do you know what you want without trying a certain type. Most upgraded brake systmes, suspenssion parts, rims, tires, external coolers, seats, harness, fuel cells, instrumentation . . . (and list goes on) are visible upon personal inspection. Sure some parts aren't easily seen but this is a small world and most race prepped cars are known by other fellow racers & builders, and what has gone into the car. If you were to purchase a vehicle from me you would be needing a trailer to tow home the documentation and receipts, and if you decide on building your own perhaps you would do the same. With alittle research and help from other track junkies they could help access a car that you would consider. This could be great help, besides, if you don't know what you are looking at when considering a built car, would you know what to put into a car you would build yourself? Most cars out there have a history or a log book that a serious owner / seller keeps. If not, move on to the next. The last 6 months I have seen 2 or 3 hot race Zs I wish I had money for and a couple awsome 510s that would really rock! What is nice about buying a built car, is that most of them come with many spare parts, tires, rims, brakes, equipment, and even trailers ready to go!

Carl & Phred make some good points. Alot of people burn out, run out of money, or get in over their eye-balls in putting together a track worthy car from the ground up. It is very rewarding when you do complete a project of such. But never the less, to buy is just as good. We went the buy route and still found ourselves making corrections, changes, and updates to fit our needs and tastes. We feel just as proud and worked just as hard. You will be turning wrenches, before, during and after each track event. There will be many "back to the drawing board" in both, buying or building. It is alot of work just maintaining a car that you put your life & others in no matter who builds it. I'm sure others will agree- the work is never done. You may have a need for speed but the car will have its needs too: repairs, additions and improvements. Track cars have an never ending hunger for tires, fuel, lubricants and even harnessess, belts and helmets have experation dates (every few years). Don't forget to save some of that "building" money for track fees too. Some race groups require yearly fees and doctor physicals to keep your race permits current. Get to those events and make friends, talk, take pictures, invest in "How to" books for building and driving. You will definetly get more bang per buck and sooner into the seat if you buy and also know you can build later. You can probably take someone elses well built project to an even higher level and have one awsome competitive ride. Hopefully the goal is to get on the track and not side tracked in building. Good luck with both directions, it will be alot of fun! Craig

I guess I was a smart a$$ yesterday. Up late Sunday - night Monday morning due to criminal activities in the neighborhood. Thought I was safe in the "Corn-eatin-town of Chino". Vehicles in the neighborhood have been slopped by eggs for the past 4 months, sometimes 3 to 4 nights in a row. No one can seem to catch the little bastards. Then Monday morning someone stuffed a rag into the gas tank or my neighbors' truck and lit it up! Flames torched the side of the bed and melted the filler hose, but surprizingly didn't blow the hell up. We discovered it in time and extingueshed it. Right outside the my 2 girls bedroom window. Totally insane! Anyways, I feel for those affected by criminals, and those caught up in the harrasment for having fun and owning modified vehicles. Enjoy your ride while you can, even if you drive it like you stole it! Cheers

Well, I thought you were done with the thread too, so you became a "Retired Criminal". But you can come out of retirement as the "King-Pin & Lead Driver". Show us how criminal driving is done. I guess you all can give me a title too? Go ahead I can take it.... :tapemouth

Okay "The Most Wanted & Least Wanted" list is updated. CZCC is really a hideout for alot of law breakers. Anyone else? Tomo, are you coming over to the other side? Criminals: Mrs. Chino (don't tell her) Mr. Chino e-racer1999 (Headlines: Man arrested for driving a Civic) 240ZX (Rebel without a cause) ZMAN525 (Shove it if you don't like my damn noise! My other car is a dump truck) ZRUSH (must be with a hot rod like that! ) 1972ZED (I'm dangerous and wrong.) panchovisa (especially you!) sblake01 (Retired Crimenal Driver) INF (Boggled U.S. Citizen) Alfadog (Many comments are priceless, but for Mine there is "MasterCard") Go240Zags jmortensen (Breakin the law! Breakin the law! TRD) Ed (lurking deep inside) beandip (Not Gary) Pennyman (most likely) DatsunZGuy (the root of all evil, just look at my avitar!) seerex (if it's fun count me in too!) Bambikiller (it's my name and killing bambi is my game) montoya fan01 (Left without paying.) Non-Criminal: TomoHawk (Innocent until proven guilty)