Chino 240Z

Hmmmm interesting. Where's the Beef? :lick:

Very Clean! Hey is that a polished valve cover or chromed? Getting ready to do one and I think chromed is gona be the way to go, not much to keep it looking nice.

Ya know, if you want a little more of a hot-rod needle for some more performance and you don't have to worry about smog. . . then talk to Steve at Z Therapy. Tell him your set up and he might have a suggestion to step it up a little. I know they are available. The set of SU carbs that are in UPS to me now have enlarged nozzles and needles to match among a few other mods. Otherwise just order some replacement needles, so you know they are true. J.M. 2 cents. good luck

You can turn your wheel Right or Left so you can get your arm up into the fender-well better to fight the screws, but it is easier to remove the wheel and have more room. Rust penitrating spray, WD-40 will help but there are better oils. I spray to screws several times while I am getting ready and doing other things. Letting the rust penitrating oils set a little so it can do its job so yours will be easier. I find that a pair of med. size Vise-Grip pliers will grab the best to loosen the screw. Yea, you may bust a few of them but once you have the assembly out you can remove the broken piece. Get some new screws and the anti-sieze grease makes it nice the next time you have to get in there. Anyways what a pain, but we all deal with it one way or another. Good Luck

Hey Jason, J.F.Y.I., I was thumbing thru the MSA mini parts catalog and noticed on the inside cover there are books listed there. One of the books was "Sport Compact Nitrous Injection" $19.95, it may have good insite for the Z since a Z parts house in selling this nitrous book? Oh well, just passing it on to ya, later. Craig

Nitrous Works, Edelbrock, TNT, and a few others offer wet systems, Fuel/NOS, with 50,75,100+ shot kits and nozzles that seem safer. There are other things to help too, like low fuel pressure cutoff switches, detination sensors, exhaust temp. sensors, timing retard switches, progressive switches. . . Get your self some NOS Do & Don't books, call some NOS shops then filter out all the BS and probably get a proven system that has been used by others,and not design one on your own. Your ride looks like you have some nice power under the hood now. Are you wanting to go pick on some V8s or planning to rebuild soon? Lots of people learn how much squeeze their motor can take then they rebuild it again with some nitrous happy parts inside that can survive. Good luck, I too enjoy the thought of my other car, a Formula Firebird, having that little more RWHP!

If you go getting product ideas together again? I would be interested in a 1/2 dozen "Classic Zcar Club" patches to put on some racing suits and jackets. Also a couple decals for the sides of the racecar! Wanted one of those mugs for our mug collection too. Thanks Craig & Cindy

Well PFFFFIT, that's just great! :mad:

What happen to the Classic Zcar Club Store? I can't seem to find it? I was interested in some of the cool mugs, shirts, and Z logo stuff. Is it here and I just don't see it? Thanks, Craig :classic:

That's on my to do list too! I have a steel braided hose hooked up for my Oil pressure gauge but my oil temp. sending unit is tied off to the side. I would like to add a "T" fitting so I can install both Press. & Temp. together. Is there a fitting that will fit both? I'm gona have to run it by my hose guy, (Bonaco in Upland, Ca.)he's probably got it on the shelf?

Well, I found "The Z Store" had the same air horns for a few dollars cheaper, and then they had the ITG Air cleaners and also the K&N Air Cleaners for SUs. In the past the ITG filter material fell apart on me. I have used K&N type units on a sandrail and it they did great. For now I'm leaning towards the K&N style, prices not bad and performed well on my other vehicles. Comments for a few more days before I buy? . . Thanks Craig.

While Z Therapy is building up some of his race modified SUs, I am looking for some new air horns and an air box to fit them. I found the TWM products (twminduction.com) and they look pretty good. But before I spend the money they want for them, are their others to compare? Don't need a filter system, just the the tubes & box. Thanks, Craig :classic:

I would agree with Rick about the cooler air. Getting cooler air from up front of the grill would be your best option and easily done too. If it's dryer vent hose it may easily be damaged or fall apart which the hose from Race Parts Wholesale works great. Here is an older picture of that idea I used in the past, since then I have changed it and added an HKS filter infront of it, but same idea of getting fresh cooler air from up front. Craig

We just ordered up a set of SUs from Z Therapy and they are back to using the needle & seat type of jets, which work just fine. heck they have been around for years and are still in use today. Anyways the supplier just couldn't get them to Z therapy for some time now, and hey, the show must go on with or with out. Oh well just have to keep a lookout for a set of grose jets to make the up grade in the future.

You guys are lucky it could have been more! A person I know caught someone getting into his car and so he beat the living day lights out of the bad guy and now he is the one in trouble with the law. Go-figure! Hey, grab your coil wire and pop it out when you go in at night and at least it won't start. Get a motion light for on top you house, garage, or parkway. Kill switches are cheap too. Good luck, and be careful. :ninja:

Did you say the engine was new to you and you just installed it? I have seen new headers get cherry red hot when they are first fired up. After they go through a couple heat cycles they don't seen to glow like that any more. Breaking in new headers seem scarey. I was standing next to a guys car while he broke in the headers and the heat burned the plastic clutch line and release the clutch and the car jumped foward with the throttle about 2500rpms and stalled at 15 ft. out! Lucky no one was infront of the car. That's on of my rules when someone has a hood up and firing it up, I always stand to the side, and also out of line of the fan, just incase the fan decides to let go and the blades take flight! Well hope the headers are cooled down some. You can have your headers coated at Jet Hot Coatings. They will coat them for a couple hundred, and they look nice too, rust and all! Headers in my Formula Firebird have been coated and you won't believe hot much cooler they run and how fast they cool off sooner so you can work near them faster. The stuff really works! Next time the Z headers are off they are goin in too!

Dip sticks are often traded or mixed up from a 240z to 260Z over their past 20 to30 years of life. The barrels at the end of the stick are the same diameter but the stick length may be a little longer on a stick from a 260. Either one will work fine. You should see the oil level between the 2 lines on the stick which will work fine. I think the oil chamber inside holds about 2cc to 3cc of 20SAE oil.

I agree with Carl. Decide on your upgrade goal first. I put some good quality shocks on a previous Z for street and it did me good, with out sacrificing a nice ride for my better half (Wife). But now we built a road race car and our goal was performance and went with 400lbs. coil springs & non-adjust. Tokico shocks up front and 350lbs. coil springs with adjustable Tokico shocks in the back. Added strut brace up front and welded gusits on rear towers. Also installed heavy duty sway bars and poly-bushings, then camber plates into the system too. . . talk about Cheeze Whiz, Cheeze Whiz this thing sticks and handles like it's on rails, but you feel it in your seat, and wallet too! Wouldn't want to daily drive a car that felt so hard. (j. m. 2 cents)

Victor, you're right. I've learned alot about these SUs lately, and by pulling the cable you are pulling the nozzle jet down and this changes the fuel level at the bridge. And yep, the gas is richened for a cold start,and is slightly pooled at the bottom of the carb. You can't see this unless you have your air filter off, and carb apart. If you have someone pull the cable you can watch the linkage pull the nozzle jet down under the carb. No butterflys doing work here. Your throttle cable / pedal works the butterfly in the carb. My Z has the choke cable removed (nozzle springs still there)smog, vaccum lines and anything else that is not required on the track. Not street driven, to bad, but sure looks better with all the garbage off.

Hey Phred, When I was talking to Steve @ ZTherapy over the phone he mentioned 3 1/2 was more than enough. And I'll have to look at the video again, but I think they talked about the fuel pressure being from 3 to 3 1/2. . . I recall some old Webers I had once didn't need alot of fuel pressure either.

Gavin, from reading your entries, I know you can handle rebuilding these SUs, no problem. Steve has been racing for many years at ZTherapy and has alot of knowledge to share to us all. I hunted and purchased 3 good books on Z carbs, shop manuals, and they still leave alot of questions. But when you listen to Steve discuss the history, good & bad points, problem areas, tune-up hints, and watch him take the SUs apart, rebuild, install and tune on the car. . . Dude, we were out in the garage before the end of the 1st tape and had the job done. The SU carb is a funky design but it works, (you do need the 3 major components of the carb set up proper to perform at it's best) and is often put onto larger engines. If you purchase a set of his carbs, you have 30 days to send back the cores (your old SUs)without a core charge. If you want machine polished carbs with reanodized gold hardware buy his set. They look sharp and run better than new. If you don't care about stained, dull carbs you should buy his rebuild kits and keep your old ones. He also offers a selection of main jet needles for a more hot-rod tuneup. Oh if you buy his SU carbs or rebuild kits, they come with the videos. If you already have the videos he will drop the price of the carbs or rebuild kits. Gavin, I once had 2 custom Fender guitars built here in California and sent them to a mate in East Ballarat, Victoria Australia, and it wasn't to difficult. So I think you can if you really want to. Let me know if you need help. Good luck, talk to ya later. . . Craig

I had a sandrail years back that I had the transaxle polished out and oh-boy it looked nice. We clear coated it and it still dulled under the clear, but not as fast, and it did chip up and scratch too. I guess these days there are better clear coats, but the best results I have found is good-old-fashioned elbow grease, Mothers polish, Never-Dull, or your favorite metal polish and a little time. You gotta stay up on it, to keep it lookin nice.:nervous: Wax on - Wax off!:rambo: