Chino 240Z

B-e-a-UTIFUL cool days are in the forecast! Perfect for a Z! Sorry to hear you putting your toys away for the winter, I'm getting ours out & ready for days at the track! Love, One sorry California Bastard!

"(By the way, I don't actually go to McDonalds)" well if you did, you'll find out that they shove mustard up your noise and stick french-fries between your toes! They blow CHUNCKS TOO! I only go there because the kids want it sometimes. Anyways you're right it is all about the customer. GET IT RIGHT V.B., MAKE IT RIGHT FOR YOUR CUSTOMER OR GET OUT OF THE WAY FOR SOMEONE WHO CAN!!! Business owners should go by this phrase: "If you like my work tell another; If you don't like my work tell me, so I can make it right!" Good luck & gambatte yo! (hang-in there!)

"The big 235's on the rear let out a little cry as I took off" That's music to my ears & endorphins to my spirit!

If that's the case fur-get-it, I'll stick to glass, I could think of better places to stick the money.

Thanks for the numbers, I printed & saved em. The one in the car has concoidal cracks, I have extra windshield but looks pitted also. Has no chrome pieces, removed for the track. Windows get cracked often following 5" off another cars deck-lid at 100mph! :tapemouth Need to look into the lexan shields that bolt in?

Well, looks like the glass survived! Could be worse, this driver got his truck high-centered on a traintrack, then a train came killing 4 Porsches he was trailering! (sorry I said the P word). By the way I could use a new windshield for the 71, would a local glass shop have this?

Well, another drive shaft was found in a stack of shafts so broken down party won't need to walk any more. Still don't know what the heck it was, but a matching spline- shaft was found. Oh well, no big deal.

Zed owner in needs help with ID on this broken drive shaft. The shaft in question was for a 78 280 with a 5 speed manual tranny (at least that is what he thought he had). When he purchased a drive shaft thinking they were all the same but found that the new shaft was about 3cm or less than 1" too short and the splines did not match output shaft. He sent a drawing explaining the splines & length, I can't recall ever seeing this type splines before? Trans & shaft may been swapped from previous owner? Any ideas? I told him someone here may have seen this and Iwould pass it along. Thanks Craig Are T5 trans output shaft splines different?

I always hope that products improve or get debugged over the years, and it's been many years since I've look into Mallory systems, but I will say I did have good luck with one in a sandrail that performed well is Glamis sand and dust! Our UPS man has a beaten pathway to our door delivering Summit & Jegs boxes! I always check prices with them and they usually kick a$$! Ya know our near by AutoZone recently beat Summits price by $5.00 on a MSD6AL ignition box, and had it in their store in 2 hrs. Won't hurt to check with them too?

Yea, getting the car high enough up on stands, but undo the half-shalfts, drive shalft, front & rear supports, and steady it while she lets it down. She's got the steady hands, she hates the way I let things down- BAM! While the diffs. are getting worked on, she reminded me that now is probably a good time to put in some new U-Joints. Are there ones not to use for track? some better than other? Many years ago I talked her through a clutch job on her old 68 Mustang, she'll try anything now. Couple months ago she change plugs, wires, and cap on her 98 Chevy Astro Van, ever try to get to those things?! You start from inside the passenger seat taking the center console out! ...sorry didn't mean to mess up the topic of this thread...

Actually she is the result of that!

Hey 2ManyZs, I will be getting into a Z diff. for the first time soon. I don't have problems with the existing diff. in the car, but that it is a 4:63 and we're getting killed down the straights. Well, I found that 1 of the three extra diffs. in my shed has 4:11s in it, and last night I traded an extra Nascar Pop-Secret race ticket for this weekend, in exchange for his help at his shop to put together a 2nd diff. with the 4:11s in it. So, now the question is I gotta figure out how to get Cindy to pull the diff. out of the car? Looks straight forward, any warnings I should give her? :stupid: Thanks Craig

If I remember right, it was the passenger side! :tapemouth

Looks as if we all have had a simular "miss" at RPMs and there are several things related that can cause this result. I guess it's now your job e-racer, to take these hints and one by one check, re-check and aliminate each one. Investigative research! Possibly a little of this and alittle of that problem combined to make the symptom show up. I hear you David, we farted with that "miss or skip" at the track for 3 events, then acouple of hours on a chassis dyno too! The good side of it all is: I now have tune-up knowledge of these SUs, ZTherapy SU Video Tapes, 3 SU carb books, rewired electrical & ignition system, clean grounds, new ground straps, calibrated & tested fuel gauge & fuel pump, a distibutor tested to 8K rpms, a tested Pertronix ign. system, 1 spare MSD 6AL box, 2 spare caps & rotors, a new friend with a chassis dyno, Mrs. Chino put down the shotgun- from me complaining so much. . . but man does our #44 baby scream now. Finding & fixing a crazy problem is almost as good as getting laid in a Zed! :eek: (this is my Ooh face)

how funny just posted about this simular problem I had. Starvation above 5000rpm. I walked that path for 6 months! :tapemouth "3 to 4 psi is all you'll want for carbs." I found I need a solid 5 psi when above 5000rpms to keep up with the ZTherapy (stepped up) SUs. Spent alot of time trying to get rid of my high rpm problem I thought was electrical, miss-fire, or carb adjustment. Hard to believe 3 to 3.5psi wouldn't supply enough fuel, like everyone kept telling me. After trying 4, then 4.5psi problem almost was gone. Now at 5psi, problem solved. SUs handle it just fine. 5psi is not for all SUs set up for daily street driving, but I believe you need to step out of the norm sometimes to see if the norm isn't the problem. "just fuel for thought" My current setup that works for me is: Holley Red Pump (somewhat loud for daily driver). Holley regulator set @ 5psi Mechanical guage. ZTherapy SUs with SM needles & .101 nozzles. Full radius air horns & K&Ns No fuel return line.

"3 to 4 psi is all you'll want for carbs." I found I need a solid 5 psi when above 5000rpms to keep up with the ZTherapy (stepped up) SUs. Spent alot of time trying to get rid of my high rpm problem I thought was electrical, miss-fire, or carb adjustment. Hard to believe 3 to 3.5psi wouldn't supply enough fuel, like everyone kept telling me. After trying 4, then 4.5psi problem almost was gone. Now at 5psi, problem solved. SUs handle it just fine. 5psi is not for all SUs set up for daily street driving, but I believe you need to step out of the norm sometimes to see if the norm isn't the problem. Most pumps should give around 7psi, and you reg. it down. Fuel injection pumps will push from 25 to 60 psi depending on the system, but yeah, you don't what one from a injectionsystem. My current setup that works for me is: Holley Red Pump (somewhat loud for daily driver). Holley regulator set @ 5psi Mechanical guage. ZTherapy SUs with SM needles & .101 nozzles. Full radius air horns & K&Ns No fuel return line.

That is for sure! Starting from scratch for Auto-X or Track can be costly and time consuming, then to find out you don't like it. Not a bad idea to get a work in progress, you'll get in quick and probably at a fraction of the cost. Once in and running you can modify in any direction or sell and take the next step up. Either way the people and the running is too much fun!

Sounds like a good start of some fun. Auto-x is okay and all but the ride is over too quick! That car would be a blast at some open track events where your ride will go on for 20 to 30 minutes at W.O.T., 5 times a day! I bet you'll leave the track after a day of that physically drained and a proud owner of a 3rd ball! Right Steve!

Some people have luck with the Unilite, but I have been told they can get flakey? I have a Pertronix in a stock 240 dist. and they claim they are good to 11K. I had my dist. & Pertronix placed on a dist. machine that spun the unit up to 8K and tested good! I won't be doing 8K but have seen 6500 to 7000 down the straights. The Pertronix has been a "Set it & Forget it" thing for me.

..."The secret lies in the Hotwires built-in capacitor, which accumulates spark energy until voltage reaches an ionization point." ..."The secret lies in the Hottalk built-in translator, which accumulates horse-$hit until vomitting and we reach in and ionize your money." so if I link 2-wires together I get the double output! :stupid:

Did you mention replacing plug wires? Have you removed one plug wire at a time to test each cylinder, to see if problem changes? Pulling a plug wire on a dead cylinder- problem should stay the same. Pulling a plug wire on a good cylinder problem gets worse. Have you had your carbs or intake manifolds off recently? possible gasket leak, don't use old gaskets, don't over torque manifold nuts. (You probably know that though). So your problem really didn't change after you made your tune-up changes? your miss is always there, or only after car is at operating temp.?

I design & build automated industrial control systems. I work in the Custom Control Panel Design dept. www.brithinee.com Craig

Michael, I found that book in my neighbors garage when he was moving, his bother had the Datsun 1500-truck it think it was, which it also covers well. I grabbed the book and like it alot. It is a hard bound book with good pictures and dialog. I use it with some others, and between all of them I can get the jobs done. Well worth 10 to 15 bucks. JM2C. Craig, Good Reading

Built in character!