HappyZ

Thx…I’ll try it today

Thanks Mark...I don't have have the choke cables connected. Should they be connected or can I leave them disconnected? I'll check the choke linkage. This may sound lame, but when I do what you said, what should I see?

I have an L28 in my 71 240Z. It's carbureted and using points ignition. I attached photos of the the jet all the way up and all the way down. Also a pic of the timing scale. Before I used Colortune: I plugged the vacuum advance on distributor I set the timing at 10 degrees on the scale. I adjusted carbs for a 800 rpm idle I also balanced the carbs. I turned both Jets all the way up and then backed them down two full turns. I reconnected the vacuum advance. When using the Colortune: I couldn't get a blue color no matter what I did with the mixture screw I went all the way up to a weak mixture - screw wouldn't go up any more It seamed to idle best when it was screwed all the way up All the way down didn't make much difference, but it did run rougher. Test Drive: Very sluggish and no power Any ideas as to why I can't the Gunson to turn blue? Any help is appreciated.

Thx...I'll do it and keep you posted

I don't have the turn signals. Looking at the pic of your car, both lenses, buckets, and sockets are missing. New assemblies are on order.

I've read many of the posts, but never found reference to the vacuum advance. Do I plug the advance when setting initial timing?

I'm not planning to switch to LED at this time. I don't have the front turn signal lens on both sides. The PO lost them some how. I also ordered a new flasher, so we'll see how things go when I install the front turn signals and the flasher.

@SteveJRight now, I have the rear lights and headlights working, but don't have the front turn signals connected (I don't have them and have a new set on order). Each rear turn signal illuminates, but does not flash. Thanks to all for the information.

Thanks for the information. I can start a new thread if needed, but do I need to have all turn signal lights connect for turn signals and/or flashers to work?

Thx.

Does anyone know what the item on the left is? It's some sort of toggle switch, but can't find it on the wiring diagram. Also, the same question for the item on the right? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks to all for your response. I'll stew on it for awhile and post update when I decide. Warmest regards.

Thanks to all for responding. I guess I’ll should have asked what do I need to do to convert from point driven L28 to electronic ignition. I’m a believer in both systems, but I’ve have had great luck with electric on other cars.

I searched and searched but couldn't find my topic. I just installed an L28 (from 1978 280Z) in my 1971 240Z. The L28 has an early points distributor. It also has an uprated alternator with internal regulator. Other than that, it's wired for a 240Z. I want to replace the points distributor with an electronic distributor for a '78 280Z. QUESTION: Is there a diagram that depicts my configuration? Do I keep the tach in the diagram, do I need a different coil, timing insights. Any help is truly appreciated.

it occurred to me that with the new AC installed I'll need a stronger alternator. I have a Bosch alternator in my other 240Z, so I think I'll swap it into the Z having problems. I also have the plug the connects to the voltage regulator plug. I think that may fix the problem and I need the other alternator anyway. More updates tomorrow.

Thanks guys! A bit of background. I bought the car and only started it once, but couldn’t drive it…transmission and clutch were shot. I put a clean L28 and 5speed in it. The dash has been out since paint as I’m installing a vintage air in it…all of that being done by a local guy (Locked & Loaded in Daytona). The wire harness is mainly on the drivers side floor, but everything is connected. The A/C is almost done, but we didn’t want to put it all back together until we were confident the harness was good. I’ll go thru your emails tomorrow and report back. This the last leg of an 18 month project, so I’m super motivated. thanks again.

If it's not an internally regulated alternator, what could be the problem. I really am stumped, so anything is helpful.

Sorry for the ugly pics and freaky wiring colors, but the PO sprayed the entire car with white paint. The overspray still shows it's ugly self on occasion.

Thanks @SteveJ I'm not sure, but I think it's an original type with a voltage regulator (see pics).

Any help is appreciated... My 240Z starts just fine, but it keeps running after I turn off the key and remove the key. It runs smooth as if I never turned it off. The car does stop when I turn off the key and remove the lead from the alternator. Another thing is I thought 240Z had to have the tachometer connected to run, but I could be wrong. It does run without the tach. I also swapped the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Any help pointing me in a certain direction is appreciated. Ideally, someone that experienced this before.

Thanks. I created a signature block. For other members, you have to turn on the switch in settings to see other members' signature blocks too.

During one of my question threads, someone recommended that I provide my car information with VIN #. Do I just provide that information with every post, or is there somewhere in my profile that I can enter it? I looked at others' posts and don't see it in their profile. I'm good either way, but I'd like to be consistent with what you more experienced folks are doing. thanks

Will do Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thank you...I’ll look in my spare parts bin...I may have them, but didn’t pay attention to them. Fingers crossed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks [mention=11371]zKars[/mention]! So we’re on the same page. On the inside of the door, where the two bolts come through, there will be a plate welded (on the inside of the door panel). If the plate isn’t there, then I’ll need the baffle. Is that correct? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk