HappyZ

Thanks! I found them under the grime. I have two follow-up questions: do I have to remove all four clips or just one from each axis? I was able to remove one on each side, but the other two aren’t budging...I didn’t really try too hard yet. (I did get all eight out, but still curious) when I press them out, do I press on what looks like the end caps as shown in the pic above? My guess is those are the actual ends of the of the bearing, so I would press there. you advice is really appreciated.

Forgive my ignorance, but aren’t the retaining clips supposed to be visible from outside the shaft. They’re all capped like the one in the photo I guess. any advice?

@wal280z The PO did the disk brakes. I didn’t know it until I go into the rear end; PO never mentioned it. My task is to rebuild the entire rear end, so it should clean up nicely. I couldn’t get the spindle lock pin out so I had to take to machine shop....arghh.

How do you set up your press? I’m not sure how I would apply the pressure.

I have removed the rear strut assembly. Now that it's removed, can I remove the the stub axle by pounding on the nut after removing the companion flange? OR, do I have to use a slide hammer attached to the four studs?

Thanks everyone. Your thoughts gave me the motivation to give it one more try. I was able to find one solution to the brain teaser that allowed me to mount the back plate and then then install/remove the air cleaner cover. I guess sometimes you need to let problems sit for awhile before trying again. thanks again.

Yes, It’ll come off and on with only the wing nuts holding the entire unit together. If I mount the back plate to carbs then I can’t squeeze the cover on. I can see it’ll be tight, but I tried every which way to fit the cover when the back plate is secure. it always hits the front bleeder valve.

My air cleaner won’t clear the brake bleeder valve. I must remove the air cleaner cover along with the back plate that is supposed be attached to the carbs. I can never actually attach the back plate and can only secure the entire air cleaner by the two wing nuts. Can someone tell me how far their bleed valves protrude from the master cylinder and also the gap between the tip of the bleeder valve and the air cleaner cover? My bleeder protrudes 3/4 inch from master cylinder. I have 1 inch gap between tip of bleeder and the filter cover. In essence I have one inch of clearance to remove cover. any help is appreciated.

Well...after taking time for my initial post, I tried the bottle test one more time. Success! I didn’t change a thing, but this time it worked. I’ll leave the post unless someone suggests I delete it.

The PO installed the fuel pump with no spacer. I smelled fuel in my oil so I replace pump and installed new spacer. When I installed the pump I felt a little pressure on the outside of the pump arm. I seated the pump with a bit of inward pressure as I bolted it in. I started the car and then let it idle for about 5 mins and then it died. There was no fuel in filter. Will not start again. I sucked some fuel up to fuel filter, then I put hose on the output of the pump and into a bottle. I cranked the car and no fuel came out. Questions: 1. Is the pressure supposed to be on the outside of the arm when installing? Could I have installed it wrong? 2. Is it possible for the PO to have done something to eliminate the need for a spacer? 3. Should I hear the pump? When it was initially running, I really didn’t hear it (wasn’t paying much attention though) 4. Was my test with the hose in a bottle a good test? 5. What next? Thanks

Now I need to find someone in the Daytona/Orlando area that can do the work

Well, I got the old fuel pumps off and realized that the PO didn't even have the spacer installed. I ordered a new one and hopefully will have her running next week. I hate waiting.

Agreed on the "bad sign". I'm going to get the chassis sorted before jacking it again...I really would like to save this car if I can, even if it costs me more than I should spend

Thanks!

I searched a number of times, but couldn't find the answer to my simple question. When installing a mechanical fuel pump, how is the Permatex - "Permatex 85420 Permashield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Sealant", applied? Is it applied to each of the four hard surfaces? OR, each side of the two gaskets? Roughly, how much is used on each surface? Also, do I lubricate the pump before installation? Any help is appreciated.

I'll post photos soon, but did have some troubles. I purchased the slotted blocks, so I used them. I placed the block right on each dimple in the pinch weld. My front/passenger side began to bend inward, so now I have a sizable dent under the rocker. I do have some rust issues, so I assume that may be the problem. Note: I did have success the first time I jacked it - it was the second time when I had problems with rocker.

Been there done that...I'm glad you found them!

thanks!

@SteveJ If it's not too much trouble, can you ask him if he uses the blocks that came with his unit, or if he purchased the pinch weld blocks. Any help is appreciated.

I forgot to mention. HomeDepot has a 10% military discount. Although they only apply it to in-store purchases (this was a web purchase), they did give me a 5% discount just for asking.

Thanks SteveJ! I feel much better now ?

I saw these on CL and thought it may help. It gets you half way there. Datsun 240Z,260Z,280Z factory wiper arms RARE!! https://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/d/orlando-datsun-240z260z280z-factory/6878121703.html good luck

Thanks for the tips madkaw. My biggest concern is that the 5000 is 70" long and that is about exactly the distance between the tires. I can return it, but I sure hope it fits. I have heard about the pinch weld alignment difficulties. Have you tried a different method?

Thanks...any information is appreciated.

I thought maybe a snorkel or "Znorkel" ?