HappyZ

I’m reassembling my door latch assembly. On the parts list, attached and highlighted, what is the Door Handle Baffle? I have two 1971 240Zs and neither of them have what looks like the diagram. My guess it is a bracket that goes on the inside of the door to support the handle. Does anyone know what this is?

Thanks for your inputs and links. I have one of each. One with the clock mechanism, with the large hole. The other has the other type spring. At this point, I think I’ll go with the older model and hope the spring does break; it has the correct sized hole in the ball crank for the bushing I have.

@Zed Head do you have any thoughts?

I removed my door latch mechanism and cleaned it up. When I reinstalled it, I realized that it wasn’t functioning smoothly. I pulled it out again and realized that the ball crank bushing was too small. After comparing it to a spare I have, I discovered that the hole in the ball crank (metal cam with hole in the middle) is larger than in the other car. I could install the spare, but it has issues of its own. Does anyone know if the mechanism changed between model years? The pic shows the spare with the smaller hole. I’ll post a comparison photo tomorrow.. If it did change, does anyone know where I can find a larger bushing? Does anyone know where I can find those little nipple type clips that hold the push rods in place? Mine are a bit worn. Lastly, is there a trick to removing those nipple clips? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your responses. I'll work to seal that off.

I’m going to install a VA Mini in one of my 1971s. Do I have to seal (weld) off the duct or just close it? It may be stupid question, but until I read this, I hadn’t thought about having to seal something off. I have everything removed from interior and am about to order the ac unit. I’m having the dash refurbished and cleaning up the wiring harness. one question I do have is should install the interior first or the AC unit? Any details regarding the VA AC install are greatly appreciated.

I agree with the angle grinder

I'm not sure about the license plate delete option...

Thanks to all for your response. I'm clear now...much appreciated.

@siteunseen did the little bracket go on the “L” shaped side? That’s where I took mine from when I removed it.

A friend helped me out. I looks like there’s two pieces. The other piece is shot ant straight. It forms a “U” shape. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Is there only one “L” shaped flange support bracket on the oil pan, or are there supposed to be two? I checked FSM, but couldn’t find it.

I'm not sure, but I don't recall seeing any rubber insulators when I took them off my 240Z, nor do I see them in the FSM

I haven't fitted them yet. It'll be a couple weeks. I didn't buy the brackets as I'll use my originals.

I ordered my 240Z bumpers from Harrington Group Ltd about three weeks ago. They arrived today and look great. I think they were a bit more expensive than eBay, but I like having someone that would actually respond to my emails. They were well packed. I ordered mine with rubber; since my car is silver I wanted the contrast. I haven't fitted them yet, so I'll send the update when I do. Oh yah, I forgot to mention they do come with new mounting bolts.

Thanks to all for your help...I'm in a much better position now. The FSM is good, but you folks are great. I try to contribute when I can.

I read the FSM, but couldn’t figure it out. You pick really helped. last question @ToolBoy ... will the booster hold vacuum without plate and seal installed with pushrod? thank you...thank you

@ToolBoy I’m hoping you can remember the assembly process. I removed my booster and something doesn’t seem right with mine. Regarding the parts you identified as D and N, those are the only two parts that come out of the assembly. Does N slide onto D and then fit into C? If so, does N get affixed to C with something like RTV? Any help is appreciated. i also started a thread with pics. The thread is titled “Brake Booster Questions - Please Look” in the subject.

Is anyone using the UNI Air Filters on their 240Z. If so, do they work? Are they easy to clean? Do they look good?

I removed my brake booster during the paint process. Looking at my brake booster I have a few questions: Is the actuator on the master cylinder side supposed to just pull out, to include the rubber grommet? (See Photo) Is there a gasket needed on both (or one) side of the spacer? (See Photo) I see a silhouette of a gasket, but there wasn't one on it. When I tried to check the booster with a vacuum pump, I could get it to five or ten pounds of pressure, but it would lose vacuum pretty quickly. Do I need to seal up one side or both before adding vacuum? Lastly, are there good alternatives (that you've used) other than the $170 booster sold on Z sites?

This ended up being the trim I used for the fender liner seal. It fit snug on the pinch weld and the seal fit perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085NHLTS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 uxcell Trim Seal with Top Bulb, EPDM Rubber Seal Channel Edge Protector Sheet, Fits 0.5-3mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft, 1.22inch Height

@Cooper260z the underside does look nice. Well, it looks like you're a chip off the old block. As someone said earlier, there are some very experience zed heads here, so you came to the right place.

Congrats @Cooper260z! One lesson I learned when I bought my first 240Z was rust. As I began to take a closer look at the car, I found rust here, there, and everywhere. Mainly the under side of the car. I finally decided it wasn't safe to drive. I plan to save it, but it'll take about $15K to make it right. I'm not trying to scare you, but you really need to look hard under the car to ensure it safe to drive. If it is safe, then you can restore it slowly. Lastly, if you can, learn to do body work to include welding. If you have those skills, then you can really look at old cars in a different way. I can do almost anything, but I can't weld or do body work (hence the $15K to restore one of my 240Zs)

@psdenno I know it's been a long time, but did the measurements work out for you?

@wheee! I hate to beat a dead horse, but I see the foam tape as a solid piece of foam with one sticky side. I don't see how it "snaps over the ridges". Do I cut a slit in the tape to allow it to snap over the ridges. Can you explain a bit more please. Also, will this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-5-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-Rubber-Foam-Weatherseal-Tape-R534H/202262324 Thanks!