BayAreaZ650

The fuse blew immediately. The combo switch and the turn signals won't work at all and the wipers turn on by themselves.

I took the Z out for a two hour cruise and it performed beautifully! I did note a few issues with the Z: 1. Gas tank leak: there’s a few drops coming from the passenger side of the gas tank. I’m planning on getting it redone because there’s also a bit of rust in the tank as well. 2. Turn signal/headlights not working: I have to look into this issue more. Yesterday I plugged in a fusible link and within seconds, it burned out. Do auto parts stores sell fusible links? 3. Fuel Gauge isn’t working. 4. Suspension is bouncy: I bought kyb shocks and am waiting on Eibach springs.

Thank you! I checked and it’s still looking good.

My fiancé and I worked on the Z’s audio system. We took out the old deck and installed a Bluetooth deck, infinity amp, and 2 6x9 infinity speakers in boxes

Thank you guys for all your help! The temperature still goes past halfway but drop back to halfway within 30 seconds.

Thank you for this! I followed your instructions this morning. I am waiting for the engine to cool down so I can add more coolant. The heater blows cold air for some reason.

Yes, the coolant was definitely a 50/50 mix. The heater temperature was at max hot but only cold air came out from the vents.

Good points. I definitely want to be able to enjoy the Z and I think I’ll just fix issues as they pop up. Right now I’ll be installing the shocks and lowering springs. I also got a few things including speakers, a mini amp, and head unit to revamp the audio in the Z.

Hi everyone, I did a coolant flush a few weeks back. I noticed that the coolant temperature gauge fluctuates between in the middle to slightly pass it. I checked underneath the car and no leaks. Fan clutch has no issues either. The Z doesn’t seem to be running badly. i was wondering if i didn’t burp all the air out. It seem to sit right in the middle before I did the coolant flush. I relaxed the coolant with predilluted Peak coolant. What could be wrong?

Thanks for all the replies! - Good idea, I think I will remove the parts by myself. Should I just have the car towed to the paint shop since it'll be missing some parts? What parts should I remove? - Is sandblasting or stripping it down to the metal necessary? Honestly, I'm just not too sure if there are any hidden places with rust. It's obvious when you see it in certain areas because of the paint bubbling. So far I only saw it on two: Dog leg (2 inch radius, bubbling), Wheel Arch (1 inch radius, bubbling). Besides that, I didn't see any rust in the interior/exterior. - Removing the glass is a great idea. I'll probably pay a glass company to do it since I'd be saving money by removing the parts myself.

Thank you for your reply. I rechecked today and found rust in the 2 locations i mentioned. I brought it to a shop and here's what the quote I got. The Z was resprayed once by the original owner. $5500 - Remove parts (taillights, headlights, bumpers, etc.), repair dents/rusts, and a two stage Axalta paint job. $3500 - Leave parts on and mask, repair dents/rusts, and a two stage Axalta paint job. $8000 - Sandblast, remove parts (taillights, headlights, bumpers, etc.), repair dents/rusts, and a two stage Axalta paint job.

I'm looking to get the 280z painted very soon. I've never had an older car before and I'm a bit unsure about the best way to get it painted and dealing with rust. The 280z doesn't seem to have any rust except in a few spots but very minor (1 inch radius rear quarter panel lip where the wheel is and below the driver's side door 2 inch radius). The bottom of the Z and wheel wells still have the original wrinkled undercoating. I'm just worried about getting it painted and missing certain areas where rust can start. I don't plan on driving the Z at all in the rain either. -Are there any hidden spots I should have the body shop look at? - Is it best to have the body shop mask off certain areas (taillights, headlights, etc) or pull the panels off? - Do you guys have any advice on what to tell the body shop to look for when painting and repairing the rust?

Thank you for the recommendation. I'll take your advice and just use Rustoleum. What would be the best way to remove prep the parts before painting? Would a orbit sander work best?

I would like the ride to be firmer. Honestly, I don't know how the Z rides because I believe our shocks are blown (it sways quite a bit going highway speed). I would just like to close the wheel well gap a tiny bit. I was thinking of going with the Konig Rewinds in 205/55/15 if it'll fit.

Hi everyone, I'll be changing out my shocks, springs and bushings soon. I was wondering if it would be a good time to remove the surface rust and paint the rods and other removable metal parts (I don't know the technical terms for the suspension components). If so, what is the best procedure and paint to use? I'm thinking of going with KYB shocks and Eibach lowering springs. This would cost roughly $300 less than Silvermine coilovers which was the next cheapest option. I would just be using the Z as a weekend cruiser.

Thank you for this!

Here's the list that we've changed/repaired: Drum Shoes/Resurface Drums Brake Fluid Flush Cold Start Injector Fuel Filter Transmission Fluid Change Oil Change Fuel Injector Spark Plugs/Spark Plug Wires Brake Rotors Wheel Studs Radiator Flush Reverse Switch Fuel Filter Shifter Bushing This is the list of things we need to do: Differential Fluid Timing Adjustment Valve Adjustment Suspension (Worn) Bushings Leaks Turn signal switch Headlight switch

You bring up an excellent point that I never really thought about. This is my first older car and I thought fixing all the little leaks would be worth it before working on the cosmetic portion (getting the Z painted). I think I can live with the little leaks but a part of me also wants to fix it. My fiancé and I have been doing all the work ourselves and it feels rewarding. I think fixing the leak furthest to the left on the photo would make me happy enough. It sounds like the other leaks would require dropping the transmission which I’d be interested in learning how to do too. Would changing out the clutch and seals be something that someone with some mechanical knowledge be able to do?

Good call, it's leaking at where the shift lever goes in. Where would be a good place to source the O ring for it? There are a few drops coming from the area where the engine and transmission meets as well.

Good morning everyone, I noticed a leak coming from right under where the shift boot is. What is the usual suspect for this leak?

Good eye. I looked and I noticed that the filler hose is a little damp. Where would be a good place to find the hose? Thank you!

I have the sender unit on order and it’s arriving tomorrow. Thank you guys for your help on this one! i want to address the slow leak we are having on the gas tank. We are having a few drops in the circled area. I’m trying to find the cause of the leak but I wasn’t able to see where it’s coming from. I tightened the clamp and it still leaks.

Sorry, I thought the cylindrical thing was a cover. I was able to get it off. Thank you! The sender is leaking through the actual unit.

Thank you for this. To remove the sender unit, do you just hold the cylindrical portion and rotate counter clockwise?

Good idea, did you put the Teflon tape on the oil sender threads?