Curtis240Z

Here are some Bob Sharp catalogs...

Because brake pedal travel on stock pedal assemblies are limited, matching a larger MC displacement to larger calipers or drum to caliper retrofits keeps things close to normal.

Individual throttle body (ITB) fuel injection is better than triple carbs, but then again it is more work and more money. Plus you need to be able to make you fuel maps or pay a tuning shop more money. I had triple Mikuni 44s (that were running great) and made the jump to ITBs and will never go back. The throttle response is SO much faster and the high end is even better because there are no chokes/venturis to reduce the flow. You can see a couple of pictures in my Z photos.

The Harada unit is a "plug and play" for the S30. The wiring is factory connections (bullet) and the antenna connection is a push-on. Unfortunately the Harada unit is missing the antenna and the motor may not be working. You would have to adapt the wiring and antenna connection to use the ZX antenna.

I don't know about a window crank with a longer shaft, but if just the center hub is dragging, make sure the plastic washer is still there.

To expand on EScalon points: The old unit is an aftermarket Harada unit for a S30. The replacement you bought looks like it is for ZX because the trim/grommet size (smaller diameter) and antenna tip style.

Is your clutch fan frozen so the fan runs all the time?

The crossmember is not just a single formed "upsidedown U" shape. There is an additional steel plate for either reinforcing/proper spacing. I would replace the crossmember. Just my 2 cents.

The torque value is correct. The bushing is directional (front vs. rear)

The rubber clutch stop pad located on the firewall bracket is NLA.

I agree with nahurry. The aftermarket door seals are too robust and won't relax enough over time. The OEM door seals don't have this problem.

Mike, Here is what I did. HEADLIGHT RELAY CONVERSION FOR 1971 240Z.pdf HEADLIGHT RELAY CONVERSION SPST.pdf

regular threads

Sent in my comments.