Curtis240Z

Here are some Bob Sharp catalogs...

Because brake pedal travel on stock pedal assemblies are limited, matching a larger MC displacement to larger calipers or drum to caliper retrofits keeps things close to normal.

Individual throttle body (ITB) fuel injection is better than triple carbs, but then again it is more work and more money. Plus you need to be able to make you fuel maps or pay a tuning shop more money. I had triple Mikuni 44s (that were running great) and made the jump to ITBs and will never go back. The throttle response is SO much faster and the high end is even better because there are no chokes/venturis to reduce the flow. You can see a couple of pictures in my Z photos.

The Harada unit is a "plug and play" for the S30. The wiring is factory connections (bullet) and the antenna connection is a push-on. Unfortunately the Harada unit is missing the antenna and the motor may not be working. You would have to adapt the wiring and antenna connection to use the ZX antenna.

I don't know about a window crank with a longer shaft, but if just the center hub is dragging, make sure the plastic washer is still there.

To expand on EScalon points: The old unit is an aftermarket Harada unit for a S30. The replacement you bought looks like it is for ZX because the trim/grommet size (smaller diameter) and antenna tip style.

Is your clutch fan frozen so the fan runs all the time?

The crossmember is not just a single formed "upsidedown U" shape. There is an additional steel plate for either reinforcing/proper spacing. I would replace the crossmember. Just my 2 cents.

The torque value is correct. The bushing is directional (front vs. rear)

The rubber clutch stop pad located on the firewall bracket is NLA.

I agree with nahurry. The aftermarket door seals are too robust and won't relax enough over time. The OEM door seals don't have this problem.

Mike, Here is what I did. HEADLIGHT RELAY CONVERSION FOR 1971 240Z.pdf HEADLIGHT RELAY CONVERSION SPST.pdf

regular threads

Sent in my comments.

This is a '71 Z. The center console and latch type gas door are '70 & '71 items only. I would venture to guess that the chrome shifter stick is also straight, not doglegged like a '72, but I can't tell from the pictures.

You might try http://www.hybridz.org they are into more modified setups. I am running a Megasquirt on a TWM ITB setup (see my Z Photos), so the map would not be much help to you.

As previously mentioned, you will need to make only one side "live" and even then you will lose low end torque over more conventional systems. But if it is the sound and look you are after, then to by all means it is a personal choice.

The debate on which oil is best will always rage on. What is more important to realize is the older engines weren't designed to run some of the lighter weight oils on the market today, so would never run anything lighter than a 10W weight oil in our engines.

The coolant blockoff looks okay on the intake side for a 240Z. Did you check to see what Beandip previously mentioned regarding the metered orifice on the metal return line above the mechanical fuel pump? I would also open the gas cap and carefully apply air pressure to the return line going back to the gas tank to verify it isn't plugged.

The oiler tube openings are plugged on the internally oiled cam towers or in your case the cam manufacturer supplied block off plates and gaskets.

I have included two brands of headers that I believe are NLA. They both came with/out air injection fittings. I managed to get one of the last ceramic coated Clifford headers before they stopped making them.

No competition version of an oiler tube. Cam towers are different for an external lubed cam vs. an internally lubed cam.

Yes the hex nut section is toward the rear. Be careful installing it in the crossmember because the tolerance is tight and forcing it in shaves the nylon bushing material (not desireable).

Well if the exhause manifold is the wrong shape (square vs. round) then cost would probably drive the decision since you are not racing it. So if you can find a good used OEM manifold or a proper header (equal length runners) plus a 2.25" exhaust pipe and quality muffler you should be set. MSA's 6 to 1 header is better than their 3 to2 header because the 3 to 2 is not equal length.