Curtis240Z

The accelerator pedal side unscrews. First remove the linkage from the car, then loosen the locknut and count the turns it takes to remove the accelerator side ball socket so the length does not change when you put it back toghether.

Also use a Unisyn to check your syncronization on all cylinders. You could have bent throttle plates.

The rear bumper is on upside down or did he do that on purpose?

As you know the S30 has a dedicated battery bracket frame. Does anybody know/make a battery hold-down bracket to fit the Red Top Optima battery?

The higher idle when pressing the brake pedal is the telltale sign that it is your MasterVac (brake booster).

http://www.datsun-freeway.com ask for Masahiro Hatanaka he is the owner and speaks some english and is the nicest guy!

You could be on to something they make a urethane or nylon version of the steering coupler for those looking for less slop.

3 psi.

Here is a picture of my Z with 17x9.5 with -.25" offset, rear flares and 255/40-17 all around (my street setup). http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=13914

I would stay away from wheel spacers because most people forget to periodically retighten the spacer because it is behind the wheel. Although Arne is correct that the selection is very limited for wheels that just bolt up to our Zs without going to 2 or 3 piece wheels. The cheapest direct bolt up wheel I since lately is the Sportmax 002 in 15x8 for $113 each. Then again if you are looking for top notch tires the selection is getting scarce in 15". I have 17" wheels on my Z (check my gallery) and it works for me, not to say it is for everyone. Do what makes you happy.

Jim Cook Racing used to sell a down pipe that bolted to your stock manifold that ended in a single 2.5" pipe that you could have your muffler shop connect to your own exhaust system. You might want to check it out.

Try completely remove the rear master cylinder bleeder screw and press the brake pedal. If fluid comes out you have a clogged bleeder screw, if nothing comes out you have a bad master cylinder.

Vise-Grip also makes versions that are specifically made for hex nuts http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4NV43 . That is the best solution if your flare nut wrench doesn't work.

Taylor does make custom length sets for the L6. Their 8.2 mm is their newest product and they come in blue 84690, red 84290 and black 84090 available from Summit Racing for $51.

If you are mechanically inclined it is very straight forward. It helps to have a brake shoe spring retainer tool and 10 mm flare nut wrench though.

You need this MSD tach adapter: http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8920_frm22049.pdf

You have round top carbs "the good ones" so the carbs are from a '72 or older 240Z.

Block size with S/N is stamped on the block below the #5 & 6 spark plug. Head number is cast into the head between the #1 & 2 spark plug. If you have a 260Z engine it will have flat top carbs on it.

60 amps.

Sorry the tires especially in the back will rub the fenders mainly because of your 3.375 backspacing. 4" backspacing with the stock diameter spring setup is the best fit.

Top End Performance also sells triple throttle body fuel injection (see my gallery pictures), but like everyone is saying you need to decide on your goals and budget.

Correct, but you may want to do a compression check because if you take the head and get it redone with the rings marginal, you will have a good car for a while but the rings will may fail faster because you sealed up your head. Been there, done that....

A compression check will isolate if it is the rings or valve guides/seals. Your description points more toward the valve guides/seals. If you don't have a compression tester, another indication of valve guide/seals problem is if you get a big blue smoke burst on the first acceleration after a long down hill decceleration.

Motorsport Auto http://www.zcarparts.com has a good selection. I would recommend Tokico Illumina shocks to tune your ride.

Since you are doing a mild performance upgrade, the Kameari timing chain tensioner while very pretty is quite expensive for the small improvement in drag you will gain. Plus the tensioner is very noisy (I installed one on a customer's Z). Just my .02 cents.