Curtis240Z

The doors won't lock when open or partially open with the key nor the interior knob. The door needs to be fully latched before you can lock it. The most common problem after painting is using new door weatherseals that prevent the door from closing all the way. You can test your lock mechanism with the door open by rotating the lock mechanism on your door, until it clicks over twice. If your lock works then you either need to adjust the striker plate or close the door harder.

An emtpy tank sender would read 90 ohms, a full tank 10 ohms. Nissanman is correct in diagnosing the wiring system, just ground the wire and it should read full scale.

yes it is.

I have the Crane XR-700 on both my wife's and daughter's Zs. It is definitely better than stock points and you can install it in your 240Z distributor. It does not have a rev limiter function. The Crane HI-6 has a rev limiter, but that is more money.

You mentioned kinked choke cables. Make sure the choke aren't already engaged. Loosen the hex head screw on each carb securing the cable to it's respective choke lever. Then check the position of the choke by seeing if you can push the choke levers down further (thereby fully unchoking the carb).

Your picture indicate that your ignition timing is off at the least. Assuming you put the cam gear timing is correct, the first thing to do is turn over the engine until the timing notch on the damper lines up with TDC on the timing scale. Since it takes two revolutions to complete a power cycle, you have a 50/50 chance you have it correct. To verify check to see that both intake and exhaust cam lobes are facing up in a "V" pattern. If not, rotate the engine one more revolution and you have the correct power stroke for the #1 spark plug. Now see where your rotor is facing and put on the distributor cap and see if the #1 spark plug wire is lined up with the rotor. If not then your distributor timing is off and you have two options. You can drop the oil pump and oil pump/distributor drive and realign it or you can move the spark plug wires around until they are lined up correctly with the rotor. If you forgot the firing order it is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. Good luck and I hope that is all that is wrong.

The early SUs are fine for a L28. My wife's and daughter's 240Zs are both running that setup. If you want a FI system that really makes a difference look at my photo gallery, but be warned it isn't cheap and you better know what you are doing because everything is laptop programmable, but man is it BETTER!!! I will never go back to carbs.

I tried this experiment and the light gain was marginal. Someone did this but also removed the green lense in the housing and the light output was MUCH better. I don't have the dash apart so I stopped the experiment. I converted the big users of wattage to LED (all the exterior lights (except the headlights of course)) and the load on my system dropped dramatically.

For a reliable remanufactured engine with a 3 year warranty I've used www.atkengines.com with good results.

The distributor and oil pump is driven from the oil pump/distributor driveshaft. The driveshaft is driven from a gear on the crankshaft. Did you by chance remove this gear then working on the chain tensioner? Is the cam turning when your crank the engine? If not maybe the tensioner popped out of the holder and the chain is loose. Sorry about asking so many questions. It could be so many things since the timing chain is off timing.

Yes, the dealer periodically calls me up to direct customers my way since I hold a inventory of OEM parts that the dealer don't anymore like brake and clutch masters and slaves, shifter bushing, etc. The most expensive thing they gave me was a new 260Z front bumper still in the wrapper.

The cap has a indent that fits into a tooth on the distributor. Are you sure you put the spark plug wires back in the same order? Backfiring is usually caused from extremely lean fuel mixtures, incorrect ignition timing or not syncronized carbs.

Look through the MSA catalog they have a good selection.

Yes a distributor can cause backfiring usually if the timing is way off. Did you have to turn the distributor cap to get it to clip on? If you did you just changed the timing which could mean that the PO installed the distributor drive in wrong.

It is a Formuling France steering wheel. We have the 3 spoke versions on my wife's and daughter's Zs.

Although we have fuel return lines...

Check my gallery pictures for my aftermarket FI conversion. If you are comfortable with the complexity of FI I would definitely go aftermarket FI. I had dual SUs and triple Mikunis before and worked on factory FI cars. Aftermarket FI is the bomb, but it ain't cheap!

I just installed the 3022-WHP2 Festoon bulb from http://www.superbrightleds.com and the improvement is well worth the $7.00/bulb. I used the same LED for the center console light and it is much brighter too.

You should at least change out the brass seats as they are for leaded gas. Brass seats are too soft for unleaded gas.

I assume bumpers aren't required in Oregon? Not that 240Z bumpers are anything more than comestic pieces anyway...... Welcome to the site. My Z is my first car too.

I have done the R200 swap with 240Z halfshafts at least 3 different times. The last time was about 2 months ago to put in a Quaife. It is true that the left side halfshaft will be fully compressed when you get it installed due to the R200 larger size, but we haven't experienced any binding problems. Just make sure you line up the yolks before you secure the diff in place because the halfshaft won't have enough compression to do the install after the diff and strut assembly are bolted in place.

Is there a righthand version of the American 280Z door mirror? (I have the lefthand version on my Z now). We were going to the F1 race but we had a date conflict so now we are going to the Clipsal 500.

You said you don't have side markers at all? If you do check them. The early cars do not have dedicated male and female connections so you can hook them up backwards and ground out the circuit.