Curtis240Z

The joys of buying a used car.....too bad we were to young to drive/buy them when these cars came out. :cheeky:

The public profile on the site doesn't work yet so I can't get your email.

To the backing plate of the stock air cleaner.

I've seen "mechanics" install the chain backwards with the marked/bright link is on the back side. If your Z is running fine just make sure you put the spocket back on the same link that you took it off of and you should be good. Another thing to check when you remove the spocket bolt is to note which of the three holes in the cam the spocket is indexed to. When the chain is installed correctly, the indexed hole, the spocket tooth and marked/bright link all are consistent. Another check would be to remove the spocket bolt to see what hole the spocket is indexed to. If it is #2 or #3 you should be looking for the corresponding #2 or #3 on the spocket teeth to line up with the marked/bright link. Make sure you put the bolt back on before you rotate the motor so the spocket doesn't fall off.

Sounds like your cam timing is correct. Either someone previously removed your chain and didn't line up the marked/bright chain link or you just need to rotate the engine a few more times until the chain links line up. The chain links don't line up with the spocket every time TDC comes up so you just need to rotate it again and check. The older chains I've seen only have a dimple mark on them instead of being bright.

When I used to run Mikunis I set the regulator to 3 psi and it ran fine for many years. Flow is what you want not pressure.

The distributor is secured to an adjustable mount. Besides the standard adjustment with the tick marks there is another sloted adjustment that is located at approximately the 12 o'clock position under the distributor. I believe it took an 8 mm wrench to get to it. If you need more than that you need to realign the distributor drive which would require you to drop the oil pump.

The HI-6 has a rev limiter in it which is primarily why I switched up other than that the XR700 is fine.

how do you delete a post?

I echo Jon's opinion get a set of round top SUs you will be much happier. MSA sells the adaptor kit to make early SUs fit on your flat top SU manifold.

You need some kind of improved ignition (electronic) to keep the plugs from fouling out over time. Also a wideband O2 sensor (air/fuel ratio) goes a long way to pinpointing your lean or rich spots. I use an AEM air/fuel ratio meter that fits in the stock clock housing once you remove the front glass.

Yes. I originally had my cold air box when I was running triple 44mm Mikunis. I have an Air/fuel ratio meter in the stock clock housing and after installing the cold air box my mixtures were now lean. So adding more gas to correct the mixture with no other change means your engine is making more power thus needs more gas.

I made my own cold air box which pulls from the stock 280Z hood louver. Check my gallery for pictures.

I made my own too. It pulls cold air from the hood louver.

In the pursuit to make it as light as possible I use very thin aluminum sheet and cut it to fit like fingers around the balance tube on the manifold and use tie wire to secure it on. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=22532 You can see the horns in my custom cold air box. The box seals up against the late model 280Z hood. I have oiled filter foam secured to the bottom of the stock 280Z hood vent which I use as my air intake. There is a duck bill drain in the bottom of the box to let water/rain out of the box.

On late model 240Zs they are for the choke cables although 280Zs don't have chokes.

The assumption is that an electric pump is usually a centrifugal design which is a better pusher than suction pump.

I like the covers they clean up the aerodynamics of the car. I seem to remember Road & Track doing a comparasion back in the '80s with spoilers, air dams and even these headlight covers. I believe the improve was something like .2 of a gallon/mile. I have the article somewhere in my pile of magazines....

Vise-Grip makes a version especially for bolt heads. It works really well and doesn't leave teeth marks.

If your Z is showroom stock with the wimpy 175-14 tires I would think you have a hard time, but very few street driven Zs at this age are bone stock. That being said the proper modifications like tires, rims, swaybars and the like transform your car into G-machine so it all depends...and don't forget the driving skill part of the equation!

You are correct put the jackstands at that intersection.

The pin on the slave cylinder should be contacting the fork even when you aren't pressing the clutch pedal. If you are sure everything when in as it came out and the fork is in the same location in relation to the slave cylinder, then bleed the slave cylinder.

Did you change the throwout bearing collar? If you did, was it the same length?