Curtis240Z

I don't think so because there isn't much extra material on the timing cover. As previously mentioned your best bet is to silicone the gasket, as long as the adjacent bolts didn't break off too. If that doesn't work then take off the timing cover and remove the broken bolt.

Another aluminum alternative is http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.html I have their radiator and it is a definite improvement over even the 4 core copper units.

What happened prior to the popping? It could be a lot of things (incorrect firing order, carb balance/mixture, wrong ignition timing.....). We need more detail.

I always use new bolts because they stretch like crankshaft bolts.

Did you check your motor, trans and diff. mounts?

It goes behind the headlight bucket.

The local chassis dynos are only good for full throttle pulls. Since this car is used for SCCA Solo II racing I also need good part throttle and transistion power. The O2 sensor will be used to develop the map, then I can find tune it on the dyno for full throttle applications.

I've used the Autometer narrowband and currently using the AEM wideband with the Bosch UEGO sensor. The wideband as previously reported is much more accurate. Is it worth 3 times the price? The choice is yours. I will be converting to triple throttle body injection so the wideband was necessary.

Hopefully you marked the timing chain and cam sprocket and noted which hole the sprocket is inserted into the cam (1, 2 or 3) when you took it off so all you have to do is rotate the cam until the sprocket lines up the same as you took it off. If you didn't note which hole the cam sprocket was in and you are the original owner and never serviced the head before then you can assume it will in the #1 hole. As for the sprocket and chain lineup if you didn't mark it you are in trouble. Hoping for the best. Curtis

Yes '73 came from the factory with an electric fuel pump along with the mechanical one. I word of caution all years 240Zs come with electric fuel pump wiring but not the rpm relay if it wasn't from the factory.

When the rpm gets above 400 rpm the electric fuel pump comes on. Similiarly when you get in an accident and the engine stalls the electric fuel pump shuts off.

Has anyone actually done the switch from triple DCOE type carbs to TWM throttle bodies? I am considering this mod and wanted to see if anyone has any dyno results to prove the TWM setup is better on a NA L6.

I know in the rear you can go a little further into the fender well that I did, but then you will not be able to rotate your tires because then the rim will hit the frame rails in the front at full lock. Wheather you can go 3/4" more than I did I seriously doubt it. Shisho did I see your Z?

I think the general consensus is that Tokico are the best for early Zs . The question is if the KYBs are worth the price. Because the early Zs are MacPherson struts the real question is doing the job again worth it if you don't put in the "best" strut (assuming anything less will wear out faster). Only you can put a price on your time. Curtis (3) '71 240Zs all with Tokico Illuminas

If you are using combination wrenches you can loop them together. Put the 12mm combination box end on the nut then loop the 13mm combination box end into the claw of the 12mm open end to give you more leverage. Use a medium sized screwdriver through the universal joint to jam the screwdriver against the driveshaft tunnel to keep the driveshaft from spinning.

Offset -.25" I find the handling better with all four tires the same size. In retrospect I could go with 9" rims because I am staying with 255/40-17. I got the 9.5" rims in case I wanted to go up to 275.

Did you check your fuel filter?

Thanks. Curtis

For me the 255/40-17 has a wider tread width with same diameter. I used to have the 245/45-16s but now I have more grip with the 17s.

Aloha from Oahu! Good Luck with your Z this is a great forum for early Zs. When you get to Oahu let me know. I am the President of the Z Club of Hawaii.

Custom made steel flares (the front is stock).

Not without flaring. I have 17x9.5 on all corners with coil-overs.

Like webdawg1 said get the family involved. Although we only have one child, I got everyone in the family their own '71 240Z each built to their liking. My daughter's friends didn't even know what kind of car it was, just that it was cool! Now her boyfriend has one too! Aloha, Curtis

As CoastGuardZ mentioned the biggest difference is the flat top carbs. The '73 and '74 flat top carbs are equally crappy. Switch to early carbs and your 240Z and 260Z will be as reliable as the 70-72 models. Your model has intermittent wipers (I don't know exactly when they switched, but the '71 and earlier do not). Your bumpers and over-riders are unique and stick out further than early 240Zs. You have an illuminated ventilation console. You have standard ignition points and condensor like all 240Zs.