Curtis240Z

The T/C kit also comes with a boot that covers and ball and socket (which is greased up) to prevent comtamination. The tension is set with the included sheetmetal gauge. The T/C kit keeps your suspension under braking more stabile. Also the ball and socket has less suspension bind that OEM. The offset LCA bushings should be set my your alignment guy.

Suspension Techniques. I like them because the center supports are real solid unlike some other manufacturers.

I've rebuilt one transmission and had two more rebuilt for me. The bearing closest to the top gear develops slop and the shifter pops out of gear during deceleration. The howl you talk about happens much later and typically you have to hold the transmission in gear with your hand at that late stage.

The most common cause is the countershaft bearing in the trans is worn out thus allowing the gears to separate during deceleration. So since you need to open the trans to replace the bearing, it would be prudent to overhaul the whole transmission.

The OEM lamp socket needs to be grounded. The OEM tach case is grounded. If you look closely you will notice a small copper finger that touches the tach case when you clip in the lamp socket. I have experienced the copper finger breaking off so the circuit won't complete.

The hot ticket back in the day, was to remove the weight attached the underside of the piston for faster throttle response.

Did you always have this problem? The flasher unit is polarity sensetive. My wiring diagram says the green wire goes through the hazard switch, which gets power from the fuse box. Low voltage is definitely contributing to the problem. Bad connection at the fuse? Is the fuse hot clips hot?

what about oil sheen in your radiator water?

The black rubber antenna signals to me that for whatever reason that person chose the cheap way out. I like the OEM antenna or the aftermarket black chrome antenna. My 2 cents.

You do know that the flasher unit for the hazards do not share with the turn signals, right? The turn signal flasher is located under the steering column.

Thanks guys I got the owner of the oldest locksmith in town to cut it for me via my key code. He understood what I wanted vs. his young helper that said my key doesn't look too bad. Then the owner interjected and said I am looking for the most accurate cut not a cut that just gets by.

Does anyone by chance have a key blank "gun" that cuts the OEM oval key by dialing in the OEM key number stamped on the OEM key? The local dealer here no longer has theirs.

I guess everyone's opinion of what is acceptable is the deciding factor. I like it to still look like a 240Z, but run with the best of them, thus the modifications.

Yes the automatic to manual trans swap is very doable especially with a donor car. I did the swap on my daughter's 240Z. Since you already have an automatic you won't have to cut the tunnel because the automatic body has a bigger shifter hole than the manual. The only thing I had to make was the clutch pedal stop on the firewall that the automatic cars do not have.

Funny, all four '71s in my family have vertical defroster lines and I know at least 3 out of the 4 have original glass.

If you say the fuel pressure is good and you replaced your pressure regulator and cleaned the lines, then it has to be insufficient fuel quantity from your fuel pump. Did you do a fuel quantity test?

You should make a list of parts you need and we can tell you if it is interchangeable. If it is an early 260Z you will have a better match. The hood and rear hatch will swap although the 260Z hatch uses two struts instead of one like the 240Z and the defroster lines are horizontal instead of vertical. The front fenders and headlight assemblies should also swap. 260Z transmission is stronger than your 240Z, but you will have to cut the tunnel alittle due to the shifter placement. Are you looking at only '71 proper parts only?

Yes bridges are used in the fuseboxes. The white with red stripe is a main power lead that is connected separately from the plastic multiconnectors.

A lot of times it is just a poor connection between the female bullet connector and the sensor. Check the operation of your gauge by grounding the sensor wire (it should peg the gauge with the ignition ON). If that works, then try and clean the inside of the bullet connector and sensor connection. If you still don't get a reading after reconnecting the wire on the sensor then replace the sensor.

Well you eliminated half the battle by confirming spark to the spark plugs. Verify you are getting gas to the carburators. Since you have dual Webers, press down the throttle linkage and look down the throat of the Weber and you should see a stream of gas squirting into the carburator (acceleration pump jet). If you don't have a gas stream start by taking off the fuel line to the carburators and do a fuel pump capacity test. If you get a good quantity of gas, then I would suspect stuck floats.

There is a full diameter engine plate between the engine and the flywheel on a MT. The AT has a "upper half" plate only with a sheetmetal bolt-on bottom section to access the torque converter bolts.

While the 34mm venturis will help, it will still run out of breath vs. using 44PHH Mikunis. My buddy did the same thing you want to try and ultimately went to a 44PHH and the high end immediately got better than what he was able to do with his 40PHH. Try Rebello Racing http://www.rebelloracing.com for Mikuni parts. Although for the street the 40PHH is sufficient.