Curtis240Z

Progressive springs get harder the more you compress them. So they are good for the street to absorb minor bumps to give you a comfortable ride, but on the track the initial compression makes the car bob and weave because the transisitions are much more extreme. The object on the track is to keep the suspension as stabile as possible to maintain correct geometry and tire contact often at the expense of ride quality.

Yes, these are progressive springs. Good for the street, but not for the track.

Test this wire to see if it is a ground wire. Sounds like this is the horn wire. Try and ground it.

MSA sells a horn button that has the Datsun "Z" in the center. It will fit a Momo steering wheel, but does your adaptor have the horn wire coming out of it?

The back of the horn button should have a electrical spade connector, which when it ground sounds the horn. Sometimes you have to bend the factory copper arm upward to meet the Momo copper connection ring on the back of the wheel adaptor.

When it dies, check for spark by removing the coil wire from the middle of the distributor cap and holding it about 1/4" away from a grounded metal surface. If you get spark while it is cranking, then concentrate on the fuel system. Do a fuel capacity test as outlined in the FSM.

Your carbs aren't syncd. They are suppose to both be sucking the same. Properly tuned SUs almost never backfire from my experience. Although your #6 cylinder is quite low on compression.

Tokico Illuminas are better than KYB, but you pay for it too.

It is a Ford Taurus blue. I told my painter....The really nice Ford Taurus blue and he said, Yea I know what color you are talking about. So I don't know the color code number, but you can see it in those paint chip books. BTW, the color looks better on my car than on the Taurus. I think it has to do with the different lines and curves of the Z versus the Taurus.

How is this for blue http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13914&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500&page=1

Backspace measurement - distance from the rear lip to the hub surface.

Did you check to see if the carb needle/piston aren't sticking? Remove the carb dipstick and lift the piston with your fingers through the inlet of the carb. It should move freely and drop like a rock without the dipstick in place.

If you have 12V to the brake switch, and you mentioned that the switch works, then you have a broken wire to the lights. Try and run a wire from the brake switch to the lights.

If it is your alternator/battery, try turn on the headlights when you are idling and see if the symtoms worsen.

While standard oxygen sensors are relatively narrow band (12-16:1) they indicate well as long as they are at proper operating temperature. Each LED in the (Autometer gauge) rich and lean areas represent .5 change in mixture strength. So you can map out the lights and 12.7:1 (maximum power) is approximately at the 3:00 position on the gauge.

This is my solution. I put the Autometer Air/Fuel gauge in my clock housing. My buddy made the fuel/air gauge you described and he put it on the ashtray cover, but glare from the windshield and looking down when you are driving made it impractical.

It is a harmonic weight. Some of the later models have them.

That is the original differential mount. It has rubber vulcanized to it to isolate vibration and hold the differential down when accelerating. If you suspect the rubber has separated from the metal, use a big pry bar and check for excessive play. You should see the rubber flexing when you pry the differential up. If it is separated then replace it.

The key to the swap is the clutch, pressure plate and collar must be from the same vintage (either 240Z or 280Z or 280ZX). No mix and matching of these 3 components! You can use any transmission.

Yes, velocity stacks are functional they aren't there just for looks. If you don't want to spend the money just cutout the stock ones from the original backing plate.

Bring a good battery and drive it home. You know that works then diagnosis it at a safer place.

That is dimensional weight for shipping purposes.

For street driving I use the stock air pressure 28 psi cold. Those Bridgestones are standard street rubber nothing fancy. Just use them up then consider using whatever you want.

Just the opposite of taking off the stock parts. Might want someone to help you hold it up as it is a single piece instead of 3 like the original.