Curtis240Z

Yes. Kameari make their own emulsion tube to replace the "OA" Mikuni jet block. The Kameari unit is longer and has smaller and more bleed holes.

You mean nobody uses this "emulsion" tube? Got to find some Japanese forum members...

Since you are changing bushings it would be a convenient swap and when you get the 5-spd you will have better matched ratios. ______________________ 5/71 240Z, L28, triple Mikuni 44s, 5-spd, R200, Crane HI-6, blah blah blah.....

240ZX is right. Because the Z has MacPherson struts all around it is no small task changing springs and/or struts. IMO, it is not worth doing the job twice, wait until you get both before taking the suspension apart.

dogma420 try and get a quote from them. I just emailed them and they came back with a price for a 17x7 and 17x8 G04 Gotcha Tuned wheel at $346 each.

Hey what about TWM throttle bodies! http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody2900-FR.html But don't forget the engine management system and the dyno time!

Well Mikuni not longer makes PHH carbs, but you can still get parts. I had the same question when I was shopping for carbs. At the time I only considered Weber and Mikuni. People who have owned both like Mikuni better because it is more stabile. I really like my Mikuni 44s once you sync and jet it correctly thats it. I haven't had to adjust it since.

Automatics have duel points. The second point set is a retard timing set. I forget which set you can disconnect for better performance. Don't understand have you mean about putting the distributor cap on the "block". If you mean engine block I can't see how the engine would start without spark going to the plugs.

The Holley carb on a L6 is only good as a conversation piece. Stick with the round top SUs.

sblake01 is correct. Sourcing parts to rebuild or rejet are going to be the keys to determine if you are happy with these carbs in the long run.

Try backflush the engine. Remove the thermostat and the block plug (located on the block below the #6 cylinder (on the manifold side)) and run water through from the thermostat housing to see if it comes out the block plug hole.

Or just rotate the wheel to another position and see if the problem stays with the wheel or with the suspension.

I believe what MSA and others who use large offset wheels with spacer kits are saying it is "ok" for street use. The stress on these high offset rims used on cars like ours now is on the spacer kit. Problem we see with spacer kits is people don't check the tightness of the spacer kit to the hub because it is covered by the wheel, they only check the lug nuts on the wheel. We've seen wheels shear the hub studs at track events because the person was only checking the lug nuts on the wheel (not the nuts holding on the spacer kit underneath the wheel). I would use proper offset wheels if at all possible, but that is only my opinion. I'm using 17 x 9.5" wheels at all four corners with a 5" backspacing. With my coilover setup I even got the fronts to fit without flares.

I go every year with the family so it can't be ALL Z stuff so we stay at the Hilton Suites which I believe is closer than the Ramada, nicer too. Will be instructing at the driving school as usual, attending the Saturday Banquet and the Sunday car show! Remember to buy all your goodies on Friday because Sunday is always a mad house!

The kit bambikiller is refering to is available from MSA (don't know who actually makes it).

Sounds like a very good start. If you want to get more track/autocross serious you will have to go to a coil-over setup, but your street ride will deterioate. Decisions, decisions, decisions....

If your frame is straight then I would buy only the adjustable control arm bushings. Everything else will allow you more than -1 degree of camber. If you define optimum handling as more than -1 degree of camber then keep buying. It is always very subjective defining optimum handling versus even tire wear on the street.

Depends what you are planning to do with your Z (racing or daily driving).