Curtis240Z

Does anyone use their Jet Block unit in their Mikuni PHH 44s? I am experimenting with it and can't get it dialed it at the autocross. With the volent transititions from acceleration to deceleration and left to right, the block appears to be flooding over. My air/fuel ratio meter looks good. On the street it works fine, but at the track it seems to choke on itself.

When replacing the throttle linkage boot, the ball located in the passenger compartment is threaded. The ball on the engine compartment side is permanetly on the linkage rod.

Yea, I just put one on a freind's 240Z engine. The only advantage I can see is less resistance. Gears on bearings instead of a draging rubber tensioner. The Kameari unit I put in is anodized blue. So some of the appeal got to be visual. I don't like the fact that this setup is not self adjusting like the factory unit. Talking about Kameari, does anyone use their Jet Block unit? I am experimenting with it and can't get it dialed it at the autocross. On the street it works fine, but at the track it seems to choke on itself.

Since you are on a limited budget, just crimp off the smog air pipe and weld both ends shut.

In stock trim they call it a B210 in the USA.

You can file the hole and fit a standard DIN size CD player in the stock radio area.

The most common cause of melting fuse boxes are loose/worn rivets securing the fuse clips to the fuse bars on the back of the fuse box. MSA sells the new blade type fuse box as which is a good alternative.

No offense, but for that price I'd go with the Tokico Illuminas because they are externally adjustable and can get just as firm. When I had the Konis they were great but I'm not going to take the suspension apart to adjust the shock. Plus the adjustment per the Koni instructions was for wear not tuneability. In contrast, the newer gas Koni with the white adjustment knob could never get firm enough.

The "old style" Koni reds are hydraulic shocks made in Holland. They are adjustable by collasping them fully and turning the rod. They are a lot stiffer than the current gas shocks Koni sells (which do extend naturally). If the rod movement is still very dampened then you are probably ok. They will not automaticly extend because they are not gas shocks. You can't buy them anymore.

Use 4" backspacing for 7" wide wheels (with stock diameter springs).

The easiest method is to use the 280Z fork, throwout bearing, slave cylinder and a 280Z clutch. Then all you have to do is adjust the rod on the master cylinder. BTW you can use your 240Z master if it is good.

Your pictures look normal for the Tokico kit. I agree with panchovisa, I like straight rate springs better, but the ride isn't as forgiving.

I've found that using the same size tire all the way around makes for a better balanced Z, handling wise. Although if you aren't going to race it, it doesn't matter much.

The front are progressive springs. The 240Z when lowered has very little suspension travel. I believe you got what you paid for. You can adjust the firmness with the numbers.

posting concurrently and with the same answers...its got to be true

Cap off the big angled hose connection on the back of the air cleaner if you don't have the air pump anymore. I used a heater hose cap (~3/4"). The little hose in question goes the the gas tank vent system. The connection is located below the ignition coil on the fender, about the height of the bottom of the air cleaner

clear side marker lenses.

With 225s you will be VERY close to the strut housing. My wife's 240Z has 225s with +10 mm offset and I can't stick an index finger between the sidewall and the strut housing. You probably can get away with street driving, but on the track it would rub. You should ideally be using a 0 offset rim.

As previously mentioned, this is a normal condition for the 240Z. The biggest improvement I've found is using the white face gauge laminates and isolating the headlights from the lighting circuit. Now the gauges are BRIGHT and the dash lights don't dim at idle Plus the headlights are WAY brighter!

1. Choke light - You need to adjust the choke cable so the choke lever stays completely down when the choke is off. 2. Tach - Yes, the electronic ignition is causing your tach problems because most tach inputs are current triggered, but the 240Z is voltage triggered. You need to source a tach adaptor from the company you bought the electronic ignition from. 3. Speedo - the cable is worn out or kinked. The cable is basically a tightly wound spring. When is starts to wear or kinked the cable unwinds and winds back up instead of staying constantly wound, thus the bouncing. 4. Ammeter - your description sounds normal. It will only read positive if the battery needs charging (i.e. lights ON, etc.). 5. Oil pressure - Bambikiller is correct. The oil sender is notorious for being incorrect.

I assume you are planning on putting on some big rubber because I only had to flare the rear fenders about 1" when I went up to 255/40-17 tires. This is with coil-overs and substantial camber. The fronts fit under the stock fenders.

You could have a bad head gasket, warped, cracked or corroded head. All could let coolant into the cylinders when the engine is off. Next time you start your engine after its been sitting overnight, remove all the spark plugs and crank the engine over. Watch the spark plug holes for the one spraying out the coolant.

Unless you the car has been sitting for a long time in the rain (high humidity), check your radiator. You might be leaking radiator fluid into your combustion chambers when your car is off. Black soot is excessively rich mixture. If it is only during startup, you might have a leaky injector or cold start valve.

You are definitely running out of gas due to clogged lines, tank or pump. Do a pump capacity test to verify. Put one of those glass replaceable filters coming out of the gas tank and you will see it clog up real fast. Plus you can clean it out on the spot!

I bought mine from MSA because I needed a SCCA SP legal kit.