Curtis240Z

A small leak will increase the idle. A large leak and the motor can't stay running thus the lower than normal idle. To verify, block off the manifold at the large rubber hose to the brake booster. Start your engine and pump the brake pedal. If you now have no idle speed change you have found your leak in the brake booster. Be careful NOT to drive your Z around like this because the brakes will be severely compromised without the booster.

I set total advance at 36 degrees.

If I recall Vic won on the 9/11 year when we raced only one track, so that isn't a total picture of what could of happened because the two tracks usually favor different strengths (power vs. handling).

Okay I understand now. So in that case you have the positive battery cable on the correct terminal on the starter solenoid. The negative battery cable is usually under the starter mounting bolt (nearest bolt in your picture).

I already have a spare hatch, just got to make a spoiler, if the proposal goes through....

Your fuel sup 2 picture is actually the stock fuel return line. Since you are not going to use it, just keep it plugged, but make sure your fuel pump does not overpressure the carburators because Webers are sensitive to it. Another option is to use the stock fuel rail and change your front carb fitting to a "T", so the stock fuel rail feeds the Webers from both ends. Then you can hook up the fuel return line and it will be less likely to overpressure the carbs. Your fuel ret picture is actually the gas tank vent line. You should leave that venting, but is is normally terminated higher on the fender. Your fuel firewall picture is the stock fuel supply line. Make sure you clean it first because it looks dirty. I don't know the purpose of the positive picture is. How is this related to the carb install? The boost picture, connect the brake booster line to the 30 degree angle fitting on the manifold (breather picture). The breather on the top of the valve cover should have a fillter on it. A K&N filter fits very nicely there. Check my Z photos for an example. Can't tell what the relay is for in the firewall plug picture. How is this related to the carb install?

Did you clean the posts on the new battery and the inside of the battery cable leads? Change your battery cables as FastWoman suggested. If that doesn't do it then change the starter. If your battery is being drained check the alternator first.

Wow, a Clifford header, too bad the PO cut the flange. You don't see those headers anymore.

If the proposal goes through I'll take my Z to Nationals for sure!

Those two sites are the most comprehensive, plus MSA is close to you.

4x114.3mm or 4x4.5" Some old school Toyota rims fit like 1st gen Supra or Corrolla.

Could it be simply one of the u-joints on the halfshafts?

Sounds like the plate that go between the front swaybar mounts and frame rails.

It all depends on your point of view. If I wanted triple carbs again I would only settle for Mikuni 44s. Since Mikuni no longer makes complete carbs you need to weigh than in your decision. $1500 for Mikunis isn't a can't pass it up opportunity, but there is only a limited supply.... I wanted more performance within the constraints of the rules which I race the car in (unlimited, but no boost adders (e.g. turbo/supercharger)), so I oppted for individual throttle body fuel injection (see my Z photos). I have the coolness of triple carbs, but with modern day tuneability. It isn't as cheap as $1500, but it also makes more power. So you need to weigh what is important to you and everyone is different....

Realize that offset changes with rim width, that is why I like to use backspacing. The available space with depend if you are using coil-overs or not. With coil-overs a 10" wide wheel could use a -13mm offset. With stock struts you would need a -38mm offset.

The short Mikuni manifold is so short that it has a "S" bend in it, not ideal. Other brands are straight (Cannon, Pierce, Hayashi, etc.) and better. Don't forget to at least port match the manifold/head before installing it or you lose the benefit.

I like Mikunis better. There low speed metering works very nice. Once you set them, you are done. No constant fittling with them. Plus they have a vacuum port for your distributor. Unfortunately Mikuni no longer makes complete carbs for cars, so whatever is already out there is it. BTW, the Mikuni manifold is not ideal so don't buy it if it is a choice.

If the proposal goes through my car is ready. I just got to get the travel logistics organized and that is a very expensive task considering my location, but definitely worth the shot.

Jon, Which stock cam is a "C" cam? BTW, did you send in your support to the SEB regarding this proposal?

Good to know. Thanks!

If I remember correctly, the short steering arms are not legal along with traditional camber plates.

May be you found some superduper thick head gasket because a stroker motor usually requires different connecting rods and pistons. I stroker motor isn't just a crankshaft change. Sounds like a more conventional route would be to install a slightly bigger cam since you have the head off and a lighter flywheel.

Mine were jetted 200 air, 132.5 main, 57.5 pilot, 40 pump; with the same venturi size

The tubes you are refering to are probably the exhaust liners. The theory with those heads is the liner will glow red hot and help burn up the emissions for a cleaner car. You need to decide what you ultimately plan to do with the engine to plan out your rebuild. The longer stroke with a diesel crank may pose clearance issues with the piston and valve clearance. There is more infomation regarding this type of modification at http://www.hybridz.org

You can use them on a stock L28. The useable powerband will move up about 1000 rpm and the engine will not run out of breath like it does with 40s.