Curtis240Z

conedodger and Arne are right, it is easier, faster and cheaper to install carbs on the 280 long block. I did the carbs to aftermarket FI (in my gallery) and while the performance is way better, it is costly. I wouldn't have done it for stock FI. Converting your carb hose system to FI rated or using AN fittings plus a different fuel pump are just the beginning of what is needed, not to mention all the sensors needed for the FI.

hls30 is correct. Some of the different electrical things that come to mind is the '73 has intermittant wipers, a lighted heater console and electric fuel pump.

For the same price I use the V-Power alternative (BPR6EV) for better ignitability.

I use these Taylor ThunderVolt wires and they work fine. They are also available in different colors. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TAY%2D84690&view=1&N=700+150+400235+4294864973+4294908399+4294862492+

The fusible links are in all major electrical systems as the final link before hitting the battery. A lot of times the problem is just corrosion at the fusible links. If the links get hot only and not the wire leading up to the link, then it is a connection issue. If the wire is hot going to the link too, then you have a problem that the link is trying to protect by blowing. Electrical tracing is a methotical process. Start with as many things disconnected as you can and as you individually reconnect them check the fusible link for a change in state = getting hot means problem area.

Hard to say if the fusible link would blow, but improper hookup sure couldn't help it.

FSM says Black w/White strip is the + terminal. Blue wire is the - terminal.

We'll be instructing too, going to the Saturday night dinner and the show on Sunday.

+3, on all our Z cars, even the daily driven one my wife drives.

Do you have a lighted center console like the '73?

The FSM does not indicate wire colors so I cannot help you there, but if you have a multimeter you can figure it out yourself. Terminal 87 goes to the fuel pump. Terminal 30 is where you put the fuse and 12V power you are going to use to power the fuel pump. Terminal 85 is where to put the wire that has 12V only when the car is ON. Terminal 86 is the ground wire. (Terminal 85 & 86 are usually interchangeable unless there are polarity markings on the relay.)

Check my user gallery for some information. 17x9.5, 255/40/17 tires, coilovers, ~2.5 negative camber for racing purposes.

I use one of these on my Megasquirt controlled TWM system: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D920&N=700+4294925239+4294836965+115&autoview=sku

Up to '83 (the last of the L6 engines) should work. The newer ones are gear reduction starters that will do the job as well as the direct drive ones.

You might have turned the engine when you were loosening the cam sprocket. All bets are off now. Everything is a gamble without pulling off the timing cover. Sorry.

If you grounded the spark plug wires and tested it like you did with the coil wire, then time to concentrate on the fuel side of the equation.

maybe a picture of your coilover kit would be helpful.

As Carl has stated the car will not survive sitting out in the rain. It will literally rust away if you keep it outside without some kind of carport or garage. Rust or a substantial accident is the only death of a 240Z. On the plus side it is a timeless classic, easy to work on, relatively inexpensive to keep running. That is why each person in my family has their own 240Z. The original engines were specified for premium leaded fuel. You can detune it if you want to use regular gas. Original engines require leaded fuel because they use bronze valve seats. Without the lead the seats will eventually deterioate. Modern day valve jobs do not use bronze anymore.

You are correct about the flywheel differences. What is important is to keep the clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing collar, clutch fork and clutch slave all from the same model (240Z or 280Z/ZX). If you have a choice I would go with the 280Z setup because it is getting increasingly harder to get 240Z clutch setups and the 280Z setup is at least as strong if not stronger.

Coil-overs are usually installed on shortened struts, so your stock shocks can only be used in the rear, but using a non-adjustable shock in a coil-over setup is counterproductive. Unless all you are going for is looks.

If it is really carbon fiber and not colored fiberglass, carbon fiber has some limitations regarding how it lays and can be a visual issue.

I concur with Frank, only big altitude changes really affect jetting. Gas does not spill out in turns if the fuel bowl levels are correct. There should be a heat shield between the carbs and header to prevent heat soak.

Have you driven it on the street yet? While you would lose some bottom end with the big carbs, it still maybe streetable depending mostly on the cam. Many owners run around with 45 mm DCOE carbs on the street. I am running 45 DCOE throttle bodies and it is quite streetable, not to mention the rush when you get ON IT!