DRTY_S30

Thanks!

Hey guys, I bought a new and never used Z Store Weber set up on craigslist and upon checking valve position for WOT, I found interference with the bolt for the throttle linkage and the throttle body. Please see attached picture. This interference is not allowing the throttle to open fully. It is happening on all three linkage arms/throttle bodies. Any suggestions? I assume these are the nuts and bolts that came with the Z store kit but have no way of knowing because I bought it already assembled on craigslist. Should I change the bolt for a skinnier one? It is pretty small already. Thanks in advance.

Yes I am definitely installing new switches!

I am trying to replace my door jamb switches in the 260z. They are rusted through and I pretty much was able to "poke" them out with a screwdriver. A few issues I need to deal with: -The metal around the self-grounding door jam switches are rusted. I will not be able to get a reliable ground connection here. How have you guys dealt with this in your own Z's? I am thinking I will need to run a ground wire from another part of the car body and solder it to the switch to get a good ground. -The driver's side door jamb switch had 3 connections running to it. I'm not sure what the connections are. You can see the wires in the attached picture. If I were to guess, the wires are: Ground wire, Courtesy light ground wire, and Buzzer ground wire? Total guessing here. Can anyone help me identify the wires please? Also are 2 wires ALWAYS grounded to the switch body and only the courtesy light wire is connected to the switching end? I couldn't tell because the switch is pretty corroded. -Do you need to remove the dash to wire these door switches? I don't see any other way of doing it because the wires are pretty up there in the dash. Again, I'm a total noob at DIY car project and am learning as I go. Thanks in advance!

Can someone show me how I can tap into the ignition switch power to start the fuel pump? Of course i will be powering the fuel pump through a relay, but I do not know where to tap into the ignition switch at? Do I splice into the ignition wire or is there a node in the fuse box for me to tap into?

Ahh okay. I understand now. I plan to do the upgrade to an '85 maxima alternator since it is direct bolt on and puts out 80-90A. How do people usually handle the fuel pump wiring when doing the alternator upgrade? Is wiring it through a switched source with inertia switch common to do for the Z's? You are correct that the seat belt interlock has been bypassed so it is a non-issue. I just purchased my 260z and am still learning how a car works. I am doing a lot of studying up on the car so I can begin to "modernize" it. I have never been a DIY car guy but I'm excited to start. I am fairly confident in my electrical skills so I am more comfortable starting with upgrading the electrical system first ?

Hey guys, I'm trying to perform the internally regulated alternator upgrade for the early model 260z. I was wondering if anyone has done this successfully and could share some knowledge on how the wiring should go? I have read through all the guides showing the mod for the 240z and 280z but in my research I am coming across some concerns regarding the 260z. The guides that I have read have been helpful in understanding that I need to wire a diode to be able to shut the car off. Guides I researched so far: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/40818-260z-alternator-voltmeter-swap/ The challenges specific to the 260z are the seat belt interlock and also the fuel pump wiring. I am still trying to understand these issues when bypass the voltage regulator. Hoping someone could provide insight on the proper wiring here. Thanks!