Black Jaguar

Thanks! I will try that tommorrow, I sure hope that fixes it or maybe the condensation will be gone tommorrow!

Its a 75 280z fuel injected 4 speed.... Thanks

Hi guys, yesterday I did a through cleaning of my engine which it has never had. I used a hose and air pressure and good old fashioned hand power. It ran fine after I cleaned it and started it up and ran it to work the following day. When I got off of work my engine would not start like it normally does with no gas pumping. It only started with gas pressed in and it sputtered like mad and shot black smoke, it would not stay idling with no gas. It seemed like it must be running on like three cylinders. I pulled over and checked the spark plug connections incase I did not put them on hard enough. They were on tight and still ran like ****. The distributor did not move to make timing worse and sense the wires were in the orginal positions I am not sure what to do other than take a hot air gun and do the distribitor just in case or what.... Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was able to drive it home but I need to fix it as soon as possable, its my Daily Driver. Thanks, Dean

This morning I went out to my car and undid all of the ground connections to the battery cable and used a wire wheel to make a secure clean connection to the ground and reconnected everything and put some wsshers inbetween the connections... And WALLA reads full voltage and works just like new! Thanks a lot for your help! Dean:alien:

Hey guys, The problem I'm having right now is that the car is not getting the full voltage when driving/sitting and dies. I recently installed a new alternator which is a Ac Delco GM 1 wire 90amp alternator. I hooked it all up and it charges the battery at 15 volts and when its off the car battery stays at 13.2v which is great. I have an altmeter connected to my battery while the car is running and it reads 15 volts, and the volt meter inside the car reads it at 8 volts when running. If I then turn on the headlights the voltmeter goes down to 4 volts and the car dies. If I shut the lights off the car will run fine. I can drive the car with no power on and it reads at 8 volts which still is not what the battery reads at 15 volts. While driving if I try to turn the lights on the car jerks and the engine dies and if I turn the lights off and turn the key or jump it in 2nd gear while rolling it starts right up. So obviously there is a problem with the electrical. The Battery says 15 volts where the inside volt says 8 volts and less when the lights / power anything goes on. What can I check or fix to rectify this problem. The old external altermeter thing could be screwing me up? I taped up all the endings that connected to the old alternator and there still down in the engine compartment. Could this be my problem? Even though they are taped up is it somehow controlling the amount its recieving.... Or could there be a short inbetween the battery and whatever else is supposed to be using the power.... I upgraded to this heavy of an alternator because I recently installed an electric fan, upgraded the headlights, have a stero system with an amp and a dvd player hooked up inside the car and the old one just wasnt keeping up... Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated!! I would love to drive this thing as soon as possible, this is the only problem stopping me from driving it AHHHHH:stupid: Thanks in advance! Dean

I might have my electronic ignition off.... Does anyone know how to adjust the electronic ignition inside of the distributor and could help me out ? I think I might have screwed it up when moving that stuff around to see if the wires were grounding out or corroded... Thanks, Dean

Thanks for your suggestions, I tried to look for the ignition module but had no luck finding it. I have the feeze and am trying to find the ignition module. I got a quote for a new one at 200 dollars for the igntion module. The new distributor is 120 or 80 for a performance rebuild of the exisiting distributor.... Not sure what to do yet. I will pull my plugs as soon as I can to see what they look like. The FI computer? the one on the drivers side down by ur feet? Is that the computer your talking about? It could be that, im not rulling anything out, but am leaning towards the distributor itself. The igition module would not let the coil spark if that was the problem correct? And the coil is sparking when it shuts off. So does that rule that out? Any other suggestions on that? Thanks Dean

To start off, it is a '75 280z. It has electric ignition and Fuel injection. Recently, the car would start up great, and would go to 180 degrees, right where it should and the car just shuts off while driving or just sitting after about 5 or 10 minutes of running. I know that it is not a fuel problem, it just dies... No sputtering or anything like that. Then after the car cools down after about 5 or 6 hours, it will start up just like nothing ever happened and then dies 5 to 10 mins later just like before. And will not start back up. It turns over but will not start. I pulled the coil wire off the Distributor and it sparks. I pulled the wire off of the spark plugs and it did not spark. I then thought I would have to get a new distributor or rebuild it, but first I bought a new cap and rotor, even though the ones on there were pretty new. This then made sparks come from the spark plug wires, but will still not start up. All the fuses are good, the wires to the battery and starter are great. The coil making sparks when it wont start up makes me belive that it has nothing to do with the coil... After I switched the cap and rotor, it sputters but does not start up and makes a clicking noise spartically every 7 or so trys to turn over. If anyone knows what could be the problem I would greatly appreciate it! I am ready and rearing to drive my baby agian!!! It was very reliable before this started to happen and am getting frustrated with it. I am leaning towards a performance rebuild of the distributor for 80 dollars or should I get a new electronic distributor for 120 dollars... Im on a low budget and any suggestions would help alot! Thanks in Advance! Dean

Im interested in buying a distributor if you are selling it, and if it works.

How much are those fiberglass hoods costing us? Id be interested in a 280z hood if you or anyone is selling one thanks. Dean

Hey Wheres the car located at ? I would like to use it to do a turbo conversion on my 280z... I got the time to mess around with it... Dont know I in washington though, dont know where abouts you are and how much you are asking for it... Thanks. Dean

Hi all! My Z is a 280z '75 and its getting about 15 to 18 mpg right now... ARGGG!! I have not done any serious upgrades to it... It is an L28 with FI 4 spd tranny. I dont drive it to hard... Just the occasional 0-60 run getting on the freeway =) I have been doing all the work myself on the car, and this Z is my 1st car I bought about a year ago. It was running on 4 cylinders due to timing and I had allitle help with a friend and we got that problem fixed and that was a huge boooooossssttttt in the cars performance. But the things that I have upgraded/changed in the car are: New coil, new spark plugs, new wires, new oil filters/oil every 3000, new air cleaner every 5000, new rotor cap. I havent touched anything inside of the engine yet... And wanted to see if anyone knows what I could do to get the MPG up around 25 or so... The FI were leaky allitle while ago and I changed all the fuel line plumbing, so no leaks now... Dont know if it could be fixed by changing new FI themselves and wiring... Electric Ignition or whatever. My second question is that I wanted to upgrade the engine componets to get some more HP out of it... And was curious if anyone knows what upgrades I should consider and if there possable to do myself. I purchased the HAYNES manual when I first bought the car and have self taught myself everything I know so far. The upgrades I am considering, are: Air intake, Performance Distributor, Performance Camshaft, Limited Slip differential, 5 spd manual, headers w/dual exhaust... I guess everything costs money, just want to know which ones I would see the biggest difference in... Thanks for your time! Im from Olympia, Washington. Dean

Hi guys and gals, Im from Washington State and am looking to purchase a 5 speed transmittion for my '75 280z which currently has a 4 speed. I am looking to pick one up around the olympia area in washington state or paying for shipping! Thanks for your time! Email me at Networkz02@juno.com if you have one for sale Thank you! Dean:stupid: