bingo

Here is a pic of the slot cut for easy removal of caliper without disconnecting the line. This pic also shows the bend I did for the hardline which was super simple and seems to stay out of the way better than the s-bend, it is further away from the rotor than it looks in this pic. I used Goodridge hoses like these https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-hose-stainless-steel-lines-kit-240z-260z-280z they are high quality and I have had zero issues with them. If cost is a big concern these Russel lines seem to be a pretty reasonable price https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-hose-braided-stainless-steel-240z-260z-280z but I can't speak to their quality. Yes I got the pull issue fixed, but I am not 100% sure what it was. My theory was that it was a crushed hard brake line, but when I took it off and cut it the line where it was crushed it still had quite a bit of room for flow. My theory was that it was just flowing slower than the other in low pressure situations ie release the brake pedal and after lots of light stops the brake pad was closer to the rotor than the other side was so the pull happened. If I pushed the brakes hard like at a stop light they would "reset" and not pull until I drove on the highway for a while. Anyways they do appear to be fixed now and I did replace the line so it is possible that the line caused it, but just seems weird that such a minor crimp could cause the issue. Pics of the line are below.

View Advert Strut Tubes, Master Cylinder, Seat Belts, Suspension Arms, Etc. I have a bunch of 240z / 260z, and 280z parts for sale. I am just trying to clear my garage of clutter. Toyota big brake spacers - Techno Toy Tuning for 280z hubs $85, Generic for 280z hubs $65 Rear strut housings for late 260z - 280z $150 for the set. Note: these front and rears can fit 240z's but need some modifications. They are larger diameter and a bit stronger than 240z stock parts, could be great for coil over conversions... Front strut housings for late 260z - 280z $150 for the set Front disk brake backing plates $60 for the set (I have 2 sets) Rear drum brake backing plates with hardline, pads, brake cylinder, etc. $100 Rear control arms - painted and have good outer poly bushings with only a couple thousand miles $120 for set Front control arms complete with new (only a couple thousand miles) MOOG ball joints and full poly bushings. $160 for set Master cylinder new in box $50 280z Hubs with bearings, studs, and bolts $80 for pair note: 280z hubs fit 240z spindles and are stronger than 240z hubs but do need 280z rotors or 280z spacers for big brake kits. 1x 280z hub with bearings, studs, and bolts $40 240z radiator with good hoses $40 Engine block E42 (240z) empty no pistons... Free, come pick it up Seat belts with 3x shoulder straps from 240z $150 Seat belts Corbeau 4pt street legal - only 1 year old with few miles $175 OEM wood like steering wheel $200 All prices are OBO, and much of this will be listed on eBay as well. Let me know if you have any questions. Advertiser bingo Date 12/30/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale  

This is super helpful info. I think I might shift towards 15" rims for my next set as well after hearing this. Looking at the GForce or Ventus RS4. As a complete tangent I attached an excel doc that I made by getting data from TireRack to help me decide on tires. I am not planning on using EBC for my future pads since the last failure was pretty bad, I will likely go with one of your other pad recommendations. I switched to Maxima 600 plus brake fluid which has been great. Even with the complete pad failure there was no fade just slick feeling pads from the heat (another reason I will not use those pads again - slick when they are needed the most). I wanted to touch on the proportioning valve comment above. I was under the impression that removing the stock proportioning valve and adding an adjustable valve allows you to increase the proportion to the rear since they generally are 100% max down to a 50-60% reduction depending on model. If you were to add an additional proportioning valve there is no way that you could do anything besides reduce pressure from stock to the rears. Does this sound right? tire_specs201909.xlsx

Thanks for all of the feedback. In response to heyitsrama: I bent my own hardline to the braided line, but while I was at it I cut a slot in the brake line bracket on the strut tube so I could unclip from the bracket and then remove the caliper without needing to remove the brake line. Jeff G: I end using EBC Yellow Stuff which should be good to 900C which is like 1650F so the brakes were getting super hot. Also, just curious why are you going with the 225/45R15 Hankooks? I have a couple of track days left in my tires but after that I plan on replacing the rims and tires but was thinking of going with 16 inch rims since there are more tires available. This size keeps basically the same diameter though which is nice. After installing the Toyota brakes the car has started to pull to one side, so I am thinking that the root cause is a crimped or damaged line that doesn't let one side pull away from the rotor as much as the other. This wasn't as exaggerated with the original calipers since they flow so much less fluid. Anyways I believe this in conjunction with dot 3 fluid started the problems and the poor confidence in the brakes which led to using them poorly. I think I found the crimp in my hard line so I will fix that and see if the pulling is fixed... Hopefully this can be resolved once and for all. I will check out Hawk, Carbotech, or Porterfied for future pads. I am using the 7/8 MC with my new setup and using braided stainless lines as well. Anybody else using stock brakes on the track? If so were just good pads and fluid sufficient or did you need venting also?

Thanks Koni Lee for the great explanation. Since you know your stuff and I am clearly learning I am going to ask another newbie question. When looking for strut inserts for coil overs or looking at coil over kits digressive is often mentioned as the newer better technology for shocks, but even in the same manufacturer's line of products you will see digressive advertised as a higher end option, but they don't say what the more basic option is. Should the assumption be that the shocks are linear or just less digressive? Because of the basic research that I have done on this topic I was planning on going with the Koni Race struts, but these struts seem to bee a better option since they are already valved for the z and should support any reasonable spring rate and put me at the desired height in the middle of the stroke after camber plates. Does this sound reasonable?

Okay, I have been taking my 240z to the track more and more and had a brake experience that I wanted to share. Let's start with the setup: The car is a late 1972 240z with a 280 block and a recent rebuild with higher compression, light flywheel, ported head etc. The suspension arms are Apex Engineered front and rear and Stagg/Votgland shocks/springs(hope to upgrade struts soon although the Staggs have been crazy good for the price). All of this on 195 14" rim Falken Azenis. The brakes were stock in front with EBC pads and stock in the rear. The combo is a ton of fun until I started pushing the car harder and harder and I start getting brake fade. I had brake fade a few times on the track so I built heat shields and bled the brakes with dot 4, I still had brake fade so I used racing fluid. The last time I raced I didn't get brake fade, but the brakes stopped sticking well so I pitted the car - while in the pits I heard something (the pad liner) drop out of the wheels. When I pulled out of the pits there was an awful grinding sound when I pushed the brakes so I now had a decent idea what was happening. The pic below shows what happened to those EBC pads on the track. I don't believe that the pads were the problem, but I might question using EBC in the future. I believe the cause was two fold. One because of all of the brake fade I didn't have a lot of confidence in my brakes so instead of quick jabs I would tap and ease into the brakes on the corners so I had enough time to pump if I had issues. This lead to excess heat - however I didn't see a better option because of the brake issues I had previously. Second problem no venting to the brakes. Potential third problem, not sticky enough rear shoes which led to additional strain on the fronts. I know many say that stock brakes are good enough for anything that you can throw at them and I know that the stock brakes stop great when in good shape until they get too hot. So for those of you that are tracking your cars with stock brakes what brake setup do you use? Be specific - front pads? rear shoes? adjustable bias(I don't know for stock classes if this counts as stock, but just for the edification of the group include this)? venting specifics (NACA ducts through the wheel well, front ducts, etc. in addition to where the air enters the backing plate)? My intent with this post is to inform those with the intents of going to the track with the z that "stock brakes" don't really work especially while learning and using the brakes sub-optimally. However I would love to see what others are doing to their stock brakes so they are track worthy so those that would like to go down this path have some clues. Disclaimer: Racing is dangerous, and there are millions of variables included in it, so this post or the questions answered should in no way be taken as solutions that will work with your car. Any modification comes with a certain level of risk especially with brakes. In case you are wondering what I am doing next on my brakes, I have upgraded to Toyota brakes with vented calipers and adjustable front/rear bias.

Does anybody know if these are digressive or progressive? Any customer feedback on these yet?

Hey all, I am looking for the best options for 4 point roll bars in the United States. I have searched and found a few options like this https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08j15/50-1924 or https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/store/product/autopower-street-roll-bar-datsun-z-70-83/ or kits like https://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/942703K/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjw1rnqBRAAEiwAr29II-fDTrPgRlqwbrRMi3HRYUqP4_CgwWC0rp-m6XlK1GD3yV2G5EVwMBoCTGgQAvD_BwE This one looks great, but is in Australia http://www.agi-precision.com.au/product-category/roll-cages/cams-roll-cages/bolt-in/datsun-bolt-in/datsun-240z/ I was wondering what you all think of your roll bars, has anybody used one of these? I was hoping to tie it to the floor and the shock towers to add a bit of rigidity and worrying that I might need to go custom but thought I would ask before I do. I would like the car to be streetable without a helmet, but would like the added safety for when I am on the track. I would also like as little interference with getting in and out of the car. Any other good options?

View Advert Roof with Pillars (no Sunroof) or possibly roof skin Looking for a 240z roof in good shape, preferably cut low on the pillars. Advertiser bingo Date 07/08/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240z

Just as a follow up, new fluid and the heat shield did the trick. Brakes worked perfectly last track day.

View Advert 240z Suspension, seats, etc. I have some random 240z parts just taking space in my garage, pm me if interested. Front suspension arms, great condition, Moog ball joints and poly bushings with around 5000 miles - $140 Rear suspension arms, great condition, outer poly bushings with around 5000 miles, includes original bolt in usable condition with tapered bolt - $120 Seats - $100 for the pair Fuel rail, insulated and in great shape - $150 Stock spare, old not great condition - no idea Crank scraper (up stroke only) $50 I have 2x 240z block - $25 280z pistons and rods $100 280z crank (needs to be ground, but believed to be structurally good) $50 240z cam oiler (rear shaft is loose and would need to be repaired) $25 280z pistons $50 240z valves, valve springs, and the spacer at the top (can't remember the name, but they are the originals that are bored to fit the valve stem and retainer) $75 260z (later) strut housings front and rear $500 firm on price, I was keeping them to do coil overs off of the car, but would sell if the price is right 1x 280z hub $40 1x 240z hub $40 Rear stub shafts $100 Rear brake backing plates... no drums $75 Partial oil pan (piece cut out for extended oil pan - could be used with some sheet metal to make another extra capacity oil pan) - $20 All prices are OBO and don't include shipping, happy to provide pics, let me know what you want pics of and I will post/send. Also would be willing to trade for a 240z roof (without a sunroof), dash cap, rocker panels(outside), vintage wood steering wheel (14"), crappy stock steering wheel that I can make into a 14" wheel without feeling bad about it. All parts are in the Salt Lake City area in Utah. Advertiser bingo Date 07/02/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale

Wow, thanks Mike, Patcon, and Zed Head - super helpful posts. Now to find the wire that goes there.