tleverett

@Zed Head Got it, I'll look at it when I pull the tranny out, compare everything to make sure it matches.

@siteunseen no worries about the interior work, the seats carpet and console are already out. I've just gotta pull the rubber boots. I haven't heard about that one. So it's an upgrade over the OEM nylon stuff? any specific kit you know of or just "bronze door hinge bushings" should be enough to find it? Oh ya I forgot about that.

Hi guys, I have watched tons of videos and read the FSM and anything I could find on removing tranny, swapping clutch and maintenance I need to do while in there. I'm gonna put out everything I can think of and PLEASE let me know if I am missing anything. 1: put car on stands, high enough the transmission can be pulled out from. and disconnect battery 2: Pull out shifter linkage with pin on side 3:Remove Exhaust 4: Drain Tranny fluid 5: Remove Driveshaft(mark how driveshaft is attached, remove 4 blts to diff, then slide out of tranny) 6: remove starter 7: Remove reverse switch, slave cylinder, and I believe speedo cable? 8: jack up to hold flat, unbolt from mount and housing, and pull out tranny 9: Go to tranny pull out clutch fork and throwout bearing. clean shaft and housing with brake cleaner. Switchout new bearing onto collar. Grease clutch fork, pivot bolt, inside of throwout bearing collar, and input shaft. Put on bearing and collar and clean excess amount off spindle. 10. Put in clutch alignment tool and unbolt pressure plate. pull off clutch and plate. Unbolt flywheel using bolt in flywheel, transmission housing and wrench. 11. Clean whole area and then use dental pic to pull crank rear main seal. Oil up new seal and hammer back in making sure not to damage (taking time). Remove pilot bearing from crank with pullers and use rubber or plastic mallet to hammer new in. 12. Attach new flywheel using medium strength thread lock, and tighten in star pattern. Use brake cleaner to clean surface of new flywheel. 13. Put on clutch (big spring side facing away from motor) and attach with clutch tool. Grab pressure plate, clean surface with brake cleaner and attach over clutch. Tighten on star pattern.Turn clutch tool to match trans input shaft as best as possible. 14. Get 2" longer trans mounting bolts, cut the head and make slit in top. attach 2 to trans as guide pins. put tranny back in. Pump new oil in side fill plug. Attach tranny mount. slave, starter, reverse switch, speedo cable. 15 Put in drive shaft following earlier markings 16. REMOVE POS REAR BUMPER MOUNTS WHILE EXHAUST IS OFF (i'm not salty, you're salty) 17. Put exhaust back on. 18. Reattach shifter I have a new clutch kit (exedy) thats coming with clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing. I'm getting a new pilot bearing, rear main seal, flywheel. I've already replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Is there ANYTHING else I need to do while I'm in there or should also replace?

@Patcon That's honestly great advice that I didn't think of. I was in such a rush to try to get it done I forgot to get it to a point I could actually enjoy it first. Thanks!

Hi guys! I've got a 1978 280z and after 12 years of sitting the car officially runs again! At this point I'm unsure on the next step between trying to get the car to move under it's own power, or pulling the entire car apart and starting the metal/body work? I'm not sure if it's a smart choice to blow money on stuff I'm just going to redo after I put some systems back in. As it sits the current throttle linkage is like seized in the intake portion that is the piece before the throttle body. Mind you, I have not flushed or replaced the differential, tranny, or radiator fluids. Does anyone have some sort of recommended order of operations for the restoration?

@SteveJ @wal280z after 12 years the car OFFICIALLY runs. It was the ignition relay causing the problems. I bought the "starter" relay mentioned above and after the fuel pumped in it started. WHOOOOOO!! Thanks for the help!

@SteveJI was looking for "ignition" relay, but found this as "Starter" relay https://zcardepot.com/products/starter-relay-upgrade-replacement-280z If I'm not wrong this is an ignition relay correct?

@SteveJFuel pump control relay Normal: 95-91 yes 94-95 no (you said this shouldnt) With current to 94&95: I can hear the relay actuate 95-91 yes 95-96 no but i believe the number shows resistance? With current and ground: 97-96 no 95-96 no The with current and ground i'm not sure if i did correctly, i tried touching to screw in lightswitch plate. I'm not sure if thats good enough

@SteveJThanks A bunch, I'm going to grab some leads on the way home from work and give the fuel pump control relay a shot! Let me know if I can help at all with the ignition relay.

@SteveJ that's interesting and helpful that you know this stuff. I was so confused because while there was no continuity on the fuel pump switch, it energized and had continuity on the other posts perfectly. I guess it doesn't make too much sense to check non energized continuity because there should be nothing that makes it bad, more so connections and switches are the part that mess up not energizing properly. Sorry if my wordage is bad. Would you still be able to help out making an ignition switch? I still need to check the energized fuel pump control relay because i stopped checking when it didn't have continuity in normal state. Also need to get gator clips because testing with just pins is extremely difficult and tedious lol. But considering i know that switch is bad might as well start somewhere.

@Patcon ahhh makes sense

@StephenJ I'm sorry I'm unfamiliar with what NLA means. And honestly if you could do that it would be a big help. I looked at the first one, its pins are set up differently on the picture. Is that just a random display image you think, or would i have to find a matching harness and rewire it? It seems z car source has it for $100, ouch. And for the control relay just z car source them and ask right?

@SteveJ

Fuel pump relay. 90-91 did not have continuity in normal condition. 93-92 had continuity when +/- was added to 90-91 Fuel pump control relay under normal 95-91 yes. 95-94 no. So it appears all 3 relays are bad. Fml any idea where is best to get them?

@SteveJ @wal280z okay i peeled off enough harness tape to find the 2 splices and honestly not too bad. I checked the voltage at the harness c9 and all four fusable link wires have voltage (small victory, maxi fuses worked correctly). Okay then i was taking off the ignition relay and all of a sudden THE ACC SOUNDS STARTED GOING OFF, but then turned off. I was pretty excited. i kept unplugging/plugging the relay and every once in a while the ACC sound would come on. I tried to start the car but the oltage was dieing on the battery. I didnt hear anyhtring from the fuel pump the whole time however. I also checked the voltage to the t post on the alternator and it had it. The other w/r wire going to the alternator also had voltage. I am going to test all the relays in a little, however it seems for now I do need an ignition relay if not now soon since it is working intermittently. Any ideas where to go for that? I will work on the oil pressure check tomorrow.

@wal280z no sorry, i was referencing a splice the PO put into the car to what I think could possibly be to bypass the fusible links? No idea yet. One step at a time, I'm just trying to get this baby to run lol and ignition/fuel is more important than the headlights currently.

@SteveJ Holy crap that's funny, I've read select pages from that when I was trying to diagnose the ignition switch problem but as I was looking for different information I didn't read through the whole thing til now. Please bear with me on this because I am definitely trying to learn all this stuff, and I greatly appreciate all the help. My dad said he would help me restore a car, but when the car I got wasn't american muscle he didn't really keep interested. Also my friends don't know anything so I haven't been able to bounce ideas off anyone. I'm gonna share some more info about what I've done and we can go from there. Also keep in mind all testing basically needs to be able to be done solo, because I work on it by myself. I did the fusible link upgrade from http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html. The 4 w/r wires to the fuses on one side, a 4ga wire to the starter on the other. I cut back the w/b wires a little and are not connected to anything currently. I saw on the link below, there is one fusible link that goes to headlights only, i believe I saw wires that are spliced in to headlights (the wires run to the headlight area) so maybe there is a fusible link problem I didn't realize since I replaced them, but might be the crimps below the links. The best place to check the voltage would be at harness c9 where all the fusible link wires are connected correct? I'm not exactly sure where it is yet, but I just want to have a decent idea of what I'm doing before I get to the car. I will take all the fuel relays (maybe the ignition relay too) and battery home where my FSM is, pick up some alligator clips is so i can test them one at a time to make sure they work correctly. Once I've done the relays, Ill test the oil pressure switch. Just to confirm, it's right next to the oil filter with the 2 wired plug correct? I know the pump wiring goes from the pump to the harness (splits off one part to the ecu I believe) to the relays and has a cutoff on the oil pressure switch and the alternator. I sprayed the relays, oil pressure switch and alternator switch with cleaner and plugged in and out multiple times.

@jonbill you are correct, the fuel pump does not start until turned to the start placement. However I just wasnt sure if there could be a correlation between the ACC mode not doing anything, and the start mode not running the fuel pump. I'm hoping there might be one thing that helps control both, besides the ignition switch. I know the switch is good.

Ok when my ignition switches to ACC absolutely nothing happens, no lights on the dash, no warning sounds no nothing.The ignition will work in the start position and will crank the starter. I started the car with starter fluid in the intake but would not run, it was only for a second. I bought a new ignition switch after checking the continuity of the different positions and one portion was out. The fuel pump is not pumping gas into the motor to keep it running I believe. I wired the battery to the fuel pump and it did push gas through to the motor so the pump itself works. When I started the car for that second the tachometer did nothing, it actually looks like it is just sitting on 1k not moving(maybe its stuck/broken) The only gauge that for sure works is the volt meter. Does anyone know why the ACC mode may not work (not the ignition switch) and if that may be linked to the fuel pump not running (maybe the ecu)? Also I checked all the fuses and relays on the passenger kick panel, also all the relays by the fusible links. Also changed all the fusible links to the maxi fuses and they are all good.

I did test the ignition switch, and the S post was not sending a signal anymore. Ordered a new switch, hopefully it will start again.

Gwri8 where can I find the colored wiring diagram? I have the fsm in hard and electric copies. Still trying to find the relevant info in it

I checked the voltage on all of the fusible links today, all have 12v going out.

Alright guys this is going to be a bit lengthy, but I'm hoping by giving as much info as possible the clues will be there and you will have a better idea, maybe I'm looking too hard at one thing. Okay I got this 1978 280z about 2 months ago. The car hasn't touched the road in 12 years and hadn't started in who knows how long. First I got a battery and hooked it up. The brake lights or night time lights were permanently on and the headlight switch would turn on the lights (it looks like someone put in new wiring to all of these things to bypass switches or fuses). The voltmeter also was the only gauge that worked. With the keys in the car there was no signs of life from turning the key to accessory. NO lights sounds, nothing. I changed the oil, spark plugs, filter, fuel filter, dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out, switched out some lines, the fuel filter, added another in line fuel filter and put things back in. Once I did all that I turned the "crank bolt" and it was not seized. After that I gave the ignition a full turn, and nothing happened. Went back to the engine bay wiring. After watching a random youtube video I saw that two wires that were just laying in the engine bay were supposed to be hooked to the battery so I rigged them back in the terminal. I tried starting it again and there was life in the ignition. I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and it started up and died shortly after (I was by myself so I could not continue to spray it to keep it going). Mind you still no gauges or anything worked. Then the ignition started to act funny. I would try to turn it and nothing would happen. And on the second or third time it would start again (with starter fluid). Then it would shut off, I know the fuel pump didn't work at this time. So sprayed some more starter fluid and tried again. This time the ignition didn't work until the 4th or 5th try. And upon the final attempt the ignition did not work at all. I also noticed the volt meter (the only gauge that worked) is no longer working. At this point I tried to clean up some electrical and fix some things for longevity. I did a fusible link delete with the Maxi fuses. I cleaned the positive starter terminal, took the wires off, sanded the o ring terminals, and de gunked everything and put them back on. I took off all the grounds cleaned the o ring terminals and sanded the paint where they were attached and re attached them, one with a new 4 gauge wire to replace an 8 or so. I took the two wires connected under the fuel pump and plugged the battery straight to it through the bullet terminals and the pump made no sound. I cut the terminals off and connected straight to the wires and the pump started to prime, so the connections/ wiring was bad there. Then I replaced all the cylinder fuses in the passenger kick panel with all new fuses. Then the ignition still did not work. My next step is to take off the fuse box kick panel, get some connection cleaner and "dialectic grease" take the fuse box completely off (if possible) clean all the connections and prep them, and see if that makes it work. If this should not work, does anyone have an idea of where I should start looking to tackle next based on the things that have shown so far. The volt meter being the only gauge that did work, and now it doesn't. The ignition slowly stopping working. These are two clues that I just don't know what they mean.