Jack Pearcy
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Everything posted by Jack Pearcy
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Update: the clutch was glued to the flywheel by the green paint, I had to rip it off and use acetone to clean off the paint and it works fine now. Now the only thing left is the fact that my car wants to run rich still
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The sleeve I have is a 280z 2+2 which is the original from my car, it worked fine before I changed the clutch and flywheel, other than that it would grind in 1st and reverse
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It says the thread doesn’t exist I think there’s a problem with the link edit: I got the link to work, thanks
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The pressure plates are definitely different in size, and here’s a video of what I’m talking about, you can hear the clutch fork bump the bell housing. Also I replaced the throwout bearing and I’m using the original sleeve and clutch fork. The throwout bearing I installed is identical to the one I removed 17125496-5A69-499E-A5DD-868AD0D8CBA9.MOV
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I’m also still having clutch issues, I dropped the trans again and reinstalled my old pressure plate, but it still won’t disengage the clutch. From what I can tell the clutch fork is hitting the bell housing meaning it’s being fully engaged, that should have some effect on the clutch right? It acts the same trying to get it in gear with my foot on and off the clutch
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My z was made in December of 77
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Yes that’s exactly what mine looks like
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Yeah that’s what it feels like, all the diagrams don’t match up and it feels like I have different components
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Sorry for the bad pictures it’s hard to get my phone in a position to take anything, here’s some more that will hopefully piece it together
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Here’s another angle, it looks like my water temp sensor isn’t connected to anything as you can see the wire with exposed bullet connector just hanging. I don’t see any wires around it that would connect to it but something tells me this might be why I’m running rich. Any idea as to where the wiring to the temp sensor originates?
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Quick question, which of these would be my coolant temp sensor, I’ve been looking at diagrams and none of them look like what’s depicted or what I got from rockauto. Also the clutch fork is about 4.75 inches or 120.65 mm from the front of the bell housing.
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Here’s the pressure plate I took out next to the one I put in, they look very different
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okah I’m back. I had 2 weeks of pulling doubles every day and now I’m free again shortly. I got a new CSV and coolant temp sensor, the sensor ended up being the wrong one so I pulled the old one out and cleaned it and put it back in and installed the new CSV and now the car runs well enough to be useable. Now my only issue is the clutch. It still won’t disengage and I adjusted the master cylinder pushrod out as much as I could. I’m beginning to think that the pressure plate may be the problem after all which is unfortunate because that means I’d have to drop the transmission again
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I was getting no reading for the resistance test is why I asked
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Does the battery have to be connected for the tests?
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Of course, it’s always good to check something off the list properly. I was just wondering if maybe there’s something else that could spontaneously cause an issue like that. Just me throwing ideas around because I can’t run any real tests at the moment
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That’s why I initially thought it was the FPR because that would’ve made sense if the diaphragm had torn or something but that wasn’t the case unfortunately
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You’re right but also keep in mind that the car ran fine without a hitch for a month and then this happened almost instantaneously, not a problem that progressively got worse, I’m not sure it would’ve happened like that if the CTS was the problem but I don’t know
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Butt connectors and a ratchet crimper
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Actually I neglected to mention that’s I already replaced the CTS connector because I tried to disconnect it once and the wires tore clean off of it so I went to autozone and bought a new one. I haven’t had the chance to run any electrical tests yet I had to take off right after I took those pictures, I’ll try and find a spare moment tomorrow and I’ll post my findings
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Oh man those used to be rubber? Haha thanks Dave I’ll give it a shot and tell ya how it turns out, most of those were fuel injector connectors so hopefully that’s why they’re staying open too long. I bought some di electric cleaner so hopefully that’ll help with cleaning them up
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Thanks Dave, all of my engine bay connectors are green so that may be part of the issue. I’ll document them as best I can and post the results
What is the 36 pin connector? This is probably a stupid question but I am unfamiliar with it
Well I got the pressure gauge but I can’t find a t connector anywhere, this really sucks I’ll have to look online I guess.
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