Civilizedape

It turned out to be a fuel issue. The fuel pump was cutting out after start up. I had the safety oil pressure switch wired wrong.

I got this car in a bunch of pieces. I rebuilt them because I didn't know their condition. I used a Ztherapy kit. Everything was cleaned and adjusted to Ztherepy recommendations except for the throttle shaft bushings.I am using a mix of Ztherapies grainy video, https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/, and https://www.z-car.com/blog/cars/tuning-su-carburetors. I spent a lot of time dealing with the floats I think they are correct.

Yes. Not heavy build up but definitely black. Ill start over with the mixture settings.

I am having trouble getting my S/U l28 to Idle. No matter where the idle adj screws are set the idle eventually falls to 400-500 before shutting down. These are newly rebuilt carbs (minus new throttle shafts). I am so tierd of fooling around w these S/U's. I wish I would have just gone EFI.

I would say it sounds like a bearing noise. It's not very loud it could in my mind be the throwout bearing and pressure plate not contacting properly. The slave is a older non internal spring adjustable. It has a tab for a spring. I installed a spring but it does not quite the noise. Nor does holding the clutch fork back fully remedy the noise. The noise goes away with clutch depressed.

After I installed a new clutch on my L28 w 5 speed I have some noise that I can only assume is the throwout bearing. Could be wrong though. When the clutch is pushed in theres no noise but when the clutch is out and trans in N there is a noise from the clutch area. Any thoughts? I know about the throwout bearing collars being diff sizes but I think I have the correct one. Could I have misaligned the clutch installing it?

From what I can tell it binds in reverse because of interference between shift rods. Can anyone tell from the picture if you think the striker rod is bent? It seems to have a twist at the tip where it engages the shift rods. I had to heat it up quite a bit and hammer on it to get the locking bolt off when I did the rebuild.

Thanks for the tips and all your videos. I'm sure they have helped many others. I'll take a look this weekend at the things you mentioned. When I said shift rod before I am referring to the striker rod.

The bushing I am referring to is deep in the rear case. If you look at the link you can see the play in the bushing down the shift rod. The front of the shaft is supported by the center plate. I am starting to think the problem is else where. As for the shift rod bushing #31 is new and #32 fine and tight. They move with no restriction when the case is separated. How about the reverse lockout do they fail?

Everything shift smoothly into all gears with the front and rear cases off. Its only when bolted up that it binds into R.

I have 5 speed transmission that is giving me trouble. After a rebuild it is really hard to get into reverse and if it does its gets stuck there. After taking it apart and putting it back together a couple times I noticed a lot of play in the shift linkage. Has anyone dealt with this? I assume next step is get a new bushing pushed in.

SU float bowl lid and 5 speed front cover I am looking for one short ear SU float bowl lid. I also need a 5 speed transmission front cover. Let me know what you got. Advertiser Civilizedape Date 08/04/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240Z

Thanks for elaborating. I guess Its coming back out and apart again.

I was able to shift smoothly through all gears while it was going together. Not sure about the input vs out put turning test.

I did. This was my first time rebuilding a transmission and its within reason that I F'd something up.