Civilizedape

It turned out to be a fuel issue. The fuel pump was cutting out after start up. I had the safety oil pressure switch wired wrong.

I got this car in a bunch of pieces. I rebuilt them because I didn't know their condition. I used a Ztherapy kit. Everything was cleaned and adjusted to Ztherepy recommendations except for the throttle shaft bushings.I am using a mix of Ztherapies grainy video, https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/, and https://www.z-car.com/blog/cars/tuning-su-carburetors. I spent a lot of time dealing with the floats I think they are correct.

Yes. Not heavy build up but definitely black. Ill start over with the mixture settings.

I am having trouble getting my S/U l28 to Idle. No matter where the idle adj screws are set the idle eventually falls to 400-500 before shutting down. These are newly rebuilt carbs (minus new throttle shafts). I am so tierd of fooling around w these S/U's. I wish I would have just gone EFI.

I would say it sounds like a bearing noise. It's not very loud it could in my mind be the throwout bearing and pressure plate not contacting properly. The slave is a older non internal spring adjustable. It has a tab for a spring. I installed a spring but it does not quite the noise. Nor does holding the clutch fork back fully remedy the noise. The noise goes away with clutch depressed.

After I installed a new clutch on my L28 w 5 speed I have some noise that I can only assume is the throwout bearing. Could be wrong though. When the clutch is pushed in theres no noise but when the clutch is out and trans in N there is a noise from the clutch area. Any thoughts? I know about the throwout bearing collars being diff sizes but I think I have the correct one. Could I have misaligned the clutch installing it?

From what I can tell it binds in reverse because of interference between shift rods. Can anyone tell from the picture if you think the striker rod is bent? It seems to have a twist at the tip where it engages the shift rods. I had to heat it up quite a bit and hammer on it to get the locking bolt off when I did the rebuild.

Thanks for the tips and all your videos. I'm sure they have helped many others. I'll take a look this weekend at the things you mentioned. When I said shift rod before I am referring to the striker rod.

The bushing I am referring to is deep in the rear case. If you look at the link you can see the play in the bushing down the shift rod. The front of the shaft is supported by the center plate. I am starting to think the problem is else where. As for the shift rod bushing #31 is new and #32 fine and tight. They move with no restriction when the case is separated. How about the reverse lockout do they fail?

Everything shift smoothly into all gears with the front and rear cases off. Its only when bolted up that it binds into R.

I have 5 speed transmission that is giving me trouble. After a rebuild it is really hard to get into reverse and if it does its gets stuck there. After taking it apart and putting it back together a couple times I noticed a lot of play in the shift linkage. Has anyone dealt with this? I assume next step is get a new bushing pushed in.

SU float bowl lid and 5 speed front cover I am looking for one short ear SU float bowl lid. I also need a 5 speed transmission front cover. Let me know what you got. Advertiser Civilizedape Date 08/04/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240Z

Thanks for elaborating. I guess Its coming back out and apart again.

I was able to shift smoothly through all gears while it was going together. Not sure about the input vs out put turning test.

I did. This was my first time rebuilding a transmission and its within reason that I F'd something up.

So I have gotten the front carb (long ear lid) to the 10mm level but the back (short ear lid) I can't get it to the proper level with the 10 turn method. I have the float adjusted to the highest level it can reach but the fuel in the needle seat is still to low. Having said this I can start the car and idle for a 10-20 seconds before it dies.

What would you suggest? Pull trans and look for what?

So I pulled the pistons and the fuel level looked low maybe 1/4" below the needle seat. I pulled the float chambers off and am trying to adjust the float and valve. In the Z Therapy video he says to set the float to .55". But he also mentions long and short eared float chambers and different levels needed. The FSM and other repair manuals give different gap measurments. What is the gap measurement that I am looking for my set up?

I let about a 1/4c of fluid drain out from the fill plug. Tries to roll just a bit and cranks slow. I am hoping once I get it to idle it will free something up.

Thanks for the replies. I have not gotten the car running yet. If the car is in neutral and I try to start it w/o the clutch pressed it will try to roll forward. Never heard of the balk rings? Is that the brass?? rings that sync the gears? If so yes I replaced them.

They are round tops. I rebuilt the carbs with the z therapy kit. So as far as I know everything should be working. Ill check the banjo fittings but I think I removed the screens. I have adjusted the floats once initially and a second time when one carb was spitting fuel out of the breather from the top of the float chamber. I'll pull the tops and check for fuel.

I have a 73' 240Z w S/U's. Right now it will run for a second with a bit of starting fluid but not otherwise. I installed a electric fuel pump in just outside the fuel tank. There are two filters one before the pump and one before the carbs. Both fuel filters don't quite fill up with fuel. I know some fuel is getting to the carbs but could it not be enough pressure? Trapped air? I will probably try replacing the fuel pump as a stab in the dark. If that doesn't work I may have to fire my mechanic and find a competent one.

I am finally getting my 73' 240z (L28 S/U's 5 speed) running after many many modifications and reassembly. The problem I have is that the car surges forward when cranking even when the transmission is in neutral. With the clutch pushed in it does not do this. The transmission was rebuilt by a shady backyard mechanic, me. Could it be clutch adjustment?