kyle146

And as soon as i put the hei back on, timing is off and it runs like crap. Again out of curiosity I reversed the red and green to see if it would rn and it starts up with no problem. Going to try to see if it will rev past the 3000 mark

Ok so just out of curiosity, i unplugged the HEI and put the old module back in. The car fires right up and the timing is exactly where it needs to be.

Ok so the bottom one is more of a rough adjustment and the top is the fine adjustment?

Well I just bought a new HEI and it definetley was the issue. car starts now but it seems my timing is way far forward to the point that when I adjust it, it sits at 15 degrees and wont go any lower at its full adjustment. Looks like I have a little more work cut out for me

Just a cheap Duralast version I had picked up from Autozone for some testing. Plus it had a warranty compared to Amazon. Going to try to return it today and see if thats the problem.

So I have completed the mod and Im having a little bit of an odd issue. No spark but I followed all of the diagnostics of the mod and whats even funnier is the car will start if i reverse the green and red wires. The timing will be off and it wont rev past that 2500 mark just like what the instructions say but it starts. As soon as I swap it back to the right way no spark at all. I even unplugged all the spark plugs and used one grounded out to see if i even got a weak spark. Ive replaced the pick up coil as it was past its resistance point (805 ohms) and now the new one sits at 755 with the right air gap. I have a warranty on this HEI so at worst ill go tommorow and get a new one. If you have any other ideas I would love some help!

Perfect thank you so much!

Ok sounds good. I think I will bridge the terminals. It looks like you did that in this picture right? Where you bridged the wires to one terminal

Ok so pretty much its as easy as I thought. So keeping the resistor around will not limit the coil while its running? Sorry I just want to make 100% sure I get this all good. Will bridging the resistor do anything positive for the car or should I just run it just as the instructions state. I would like to have the car spark at its fullest potential rather than be limited to the stock resisted spark (edit: I do also see now in the picture that you did move the wire from one end of the terminal on the resistor to be with the other one)

Ok great good to know! I actually plan to buy this coil : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00199DPWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IozvDbW9PBQ4J Now I didn't see in the instructions about bridging the resistor so Im going with the hunch that changing the wires at the TIU will be the only thing I need to do?

I actually was curious and have been trying to research this everywhere but can I keep my stock externally resistor coil or do I now need a new coil. Does it need to be internally resisted or externally. I know the Ohms matter but I want to make sure the stock coil would be okay for the HEI conversion. (edit: I do see that this does bypass the resistor but when I look at the pic @EuroDat put on it shows he is running a Beru coil with a resistance of 0.9 Ohms and it says clearly underneath it to only use this coil with a ballast resister. But in a later post he does mention using the Flame-Thrower II which is internally resisted. Sorry I just don't want to get the wrong coil.)