26th-Z

If it looks like this, ZSaint, it will fit. Remember to fasten the radio chassis to the tunnel. The face plate screws really just hold the face plate on. They don't support the radio.

I just have not caught the hang of photgraphing parts, Enrique. The focal length is all wrong. The lighting sucks. I'm getting better, but you would think I was some sort of photographic hack by looking at my parts pictures. Race car at speed - no problem. Gothic cathedral stone details on a cloudy day in Paris - no problem. Nudes on the beach at sunset - no problem. But parts on my work bench? It's the same face plate. I assure you! This is the nice radio, not the restoration in question. Yes, the backing plate is upside down! It's just in the box that way. Hell, everything is in boxes! Thanks for the nail polish idea. I'll try that. I have been using a paint pen from "Testors". It is a felt-tip pen full of silver paint. Works well on the raised lettering and the finish is fairly satin. CW-

US imported Z cars came with emission controls from day one. Take a look at what I have to deal with here. Ahhghh!!! I'm really looking for the air tube that connects to the exhaust manifold. But I would rather have the exhaust manifold with it, and if that part is nice, I might as well take the rest...it just goes on and on, doesn't it? Let me know what you find and we'll talk. I don't expect anyone to go out to the junk yard and wrench for nothing. Let me know if anyone is inspired. 27th is going to be as stock as I can make her and I would like to have some more of the emission hardware to work with.

I'm looking for emissions parts. Nice restorable stuff. I would buy the whole top end of the engine - head and all - smog pump.... If anyone is so inclined, send me a PM.

I may take you up on that, Enrique. How are you at repairing the broken corners? Here are some detail shots.

A car with real racing history turned into a rally replica. It is my firm belief that many of the racing parts from HS30-00026, a factory rally chassis, are on this car. Thanks for the article link.

Thought all you seat belt afficianodos would enjoy this picture. Check out the date on the label.

I have a Sony like that. It had an adaptor face to fit on the console face plate and the chassis fit nicely under the heater box. I put a right side speaker mount in 26th for dual speakers. Worked well, but as I said, the queen makes a lot of noise when she's driven and it wasn't anything like tunes in cars today. I'm with you on the stock-but-modified thing. After two years of searching, I finally found a Hitachi 8-track option. I figure a few 8-tracks to play at car shows will do fine.

Thanks Will. It's looking like I am in charge of the car show for the 2007 convention and I am going to be doing some planning. Hopeless architects - you gotta have the right car in the picture - you know? CW-

I'm looking for (and I'll probably have to make it) a similar drawing of the Z31 and Z32. I could use an S130 too. But I don't have accurate dimensions. The FSMs have dimensioned drawings like my early manual? Can someone scan one for me and I'll make up a CAD file.

I just ran across an ad in "Old Cars Weekly". "CLASSIC LOOK - MODERN PERFORMANCE" "Convert Your Original Radio to PLL AM/FM Stereo". www.turnswitch.com Electro-Tech, Inc. 8836 Xylite Street N.E. Blaine, MN 55449 (877) 780-2861 Her Majesty the 26th has always been a noisy babe and listening to tunes a-la "touring" is not really her style. At one time, she had a cassette deck in her with twin speakers in the back, but that wasn't anything to brag about. The problem with the early Z console is that there is no room for a big large unit and you are limited with what will fit behind the console plate - like Kenz pointed out. I like the Mp3 idea.

Yes, but isn't this what it looks like?

My experience was sending them what I had and discussing the issue on the phone with them including price after they had a chance to see what they were working with. Not all of my stuff was salvageable. I sent them four sets and got back three. Mine worked out to about $250 per set.

Ya'll gotta understand... Some one of these days I'm gonna have Her Majesty the 26th and Princess 27 sitting there in a car show all looking beatimous and stunning. You're gonna walk up and say; "nice cars but do you have the original service manuals from those years?" And if I couldn't wip them out to show you, how would you know that I restored the cars in the most correctest manner? You would prolly think I'm some slacker or something! Prolly chuckle under your breath...(this poor bastard hasn't a clue....) You see, to some people owning this particular manual is very important and I can actually point to something peculiar about the early engines that I wouldn't know without one of these early books. I have to admit that I think the asking price was shattering. I'm so glad I have mine.

I was just about to post the Ssnake-Oyl link. Your type of early, lift-buckle style is unobtanium, ddezso. Parts for the buckles themselves are NLA, so be carefull with what you got. From what I can see of your photo, you still have the original finish. The center part was wrinkle black and the buckle body was satin black (semi-gloss). No emblems or labels - just plain. I agree with Montoya and from the looks of your picture, I would say your belts are no longer safe. Ssnake-Oyl will fix you right up. They refurbish everything.

That is a published in Japan, November 1969 chassis service manual for the American import 240Z. Probably the first publication from everything I know about them. It is quite rare, as you can imagine, quite unique (very much unlike subsequent publications) and like many rare collectable books, the seller thinks it is worth a lot of money. What other explanation did you have in mind?

My part books only goes up to July '73. Your first picture and the blue picture look like 86700-E8800 from 8/71 on. It has the sliding ash tray. Are either of the consoles notched for a padded arm rest hinge? The part book shows the arm rest. Do the automatic consoles differ from the manual? That might explain the chrome ring. I have one of those also. The last picture is much later and I am guessing fits lighted switches.

The choke knob on the left is 18415-N3401 or 3601 from 8/73, I believe. The one on the right could be 18415-E4101, E8700, or E8800 from 9/71 to 7/73. One says CHOKE, the other is just the symbol and the part numbers are different between Canada and USA cars. I have no reference to other export variants or the domestic. 18415-E4100 is the early choke knob Kats is talking about. It is unobtanium, the set screw is different, and the mechanisms are also different. There are 11 different part numbers for the mechanism. The choke knob on the left is for mechanism 18410-N3602 or N3403 for Canadian cars. The choke knob on the right could fit in a 18410-E8800 up to 1/72 or E8802 from 1/72 to 6/72 or N3300 from 7/72 to 2/73. The original assembly 18410-E4401 is the choke / throttle mechanism only good up to 1/70. It was replaced by E4601 which came in two variants - braided wire cable and they were replaced with solid wire. I understand the width of the levers is different between models and it affects the slot in the choke plate on the console, but I have yet to document this with my own eyes. Hope this helps! CW-