26th-Z

The used ones you linked to, DougN, are way incorrect - way wrong parts - don't buy those.

That was great, Alan! I hope my computer screen comes clean after seeing your pictures of the R380. So, on a scale of 1-10, how much fun did you have? (Edit) Oh !! !! I'm sorry. Should have paid attention to your title. A business trip, eh?

Oh boy! Is this going to be fun!

Defroster switch. I have clear glass.

Anyone have a blanking plug for where that switch should be?

The hardware for the early straps is different because the early cars didn't have tool bins in the rear deck. Straps are on eBay from time to time and shouldn't go for more than $20. Be sure you get the plastic belt loops. The hardware is plated silver zinc - same as the door strikers.

The tools that came in the '72 as well as the tool storage arrangement are quite different from the '70. Bookmark this site for details of the early cars. http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz903/

Sorry to come into this late. I see some really great comments and I generally agree with the majority of them. But the base question is what a '72 with 50,000 miles is worth. Mint / near mint condition. There was an article in the Wall Street Journal some months ago. Search the archive here. We went over it. A '72 in near mint condition with 50,000 miles is worth somewhere between $15,000 and $18,000. I see cars like this in collections in Tampa and Atlanta. It should appear almost brand new. 50,000 miles on a 240Z is nothing. You should be able to tell right away if the car is genuine or a restoration.

The 1970 service manual was split into two books - the chassis manual and the engine manual. I don't have any spare engine manuals - just the chassis. They were combined in 1971. The yellow '70 manual is in VG condition - clean. The '71 manual is virtually brand new. $40 for the '70 - $50 for the '71. PM me. Chris

My club has been thinking of doing a calander. The trouble I see is selling enough of them to justify the cost of printing. The calander we are talking about was only printed 100 copies which makes it rather expensive. And you only get a few months to sell them before they are worthless. Do any of you have experience with this? Do calanders make money for clubs?

That's a ZL allright. Notice the Hitachi 8-track radio and the foot rest. All trademarks of the ZL interior.

I don't know, Ed. One of the guys in our local club forwarded this around.

I got this e-mail a couple of weeks ago. Copy-clipped TIME TO PLACE YOUR CHRISTMAS ORDERS FOR THE 2006 HEART OF AMERICA Z CAR CLUB CALENDAR. Thanks to the efforts of Michael Blankowski, we’re ready to print this year’s fabulous Z-Car Calendar. Once again, Michael has spent many hours in designing the layout and inspecting dozens of photos, and the end result is a very professional, very artistic showing of club members’ dream cars. PLEASE, send in your orders today and take advantage of last year’s prices: $20 for one $19 each for two $18 each for three $17 each for four or more. Make your check out to HAZCC, and mail it to: HAZCC c/o Mick Mithelavage 4117 SE Paddock Drive Lee’s Summit, MO 64082 Out of the hundred to be printed, 33 have already been reserved, so send in your order NOW. Any questions, please contact Michael Blankowski at mblankowski@kc.rr.com. Thanks for your Z Club support !

I'm lovin this! Thanks Guus!

Briefly answered, but I encourage you all to read about balancing and blueprinting - I'm certainly no expert. However, I have built a few engines in my life and this is how I understand it. The engine has a number of revolving and reciprocating parts. The crankshaft revolves and the pistons and rods reciprocate. Like getting your tires balanced, the crankshaft and everything connected to it that goes round and round with it, is subject to the weights and balances of the parts. This includes the clutch, flywheel, and front pulley / dampener. You know what a tire feels like when it is out of balance; the same is true of the revolving crankshaft in your engine. The reciprocating pistons and rods also affect this motion and their weights react to the balance of the revolving parts. Because of the RPMs involved, this becomes a very accurate situation. Other things come into play, like harmonics, but keeping the explanation simple; the closer one can get to perfect revolving balance to the revolving parts and equal weight to the reciprocating parts, the less power will be consumed making up for the imbalance and less wear on the engine. The engine will rev faster, have more horsepower, and will be smoother. The designers of the engines specify a certain tollerance of weights and balances. But every time you change a clutch, for example, you technically throw the engine out of balance. I just did the engine for 26th and my machinist said it would feel much smoother. The top of the block deck was stamped with numbers that correspond with the piston weights. The pistons were stamped accordingly, and they were within 3.5 grams of each other. They are now equal weight. Same for the rods, rod caps, and bolts. The crankshaft was balanced with the front pulley, flywheel and clutch plate assembled. I'm supposed to notice the difference. On a side note, the crankshaft for an early engine like mine was subject to a vibration within a certain RPM range. This "flaw" was later corrected with another crankshaft design. You may notice a metal plate welded to the side of the oil pan on an early engine. (26th's engine number is L24-2338) This is because the oil pans cracked in this area due to the harmonic vibration of the early crankshaft design.

Bryan, Go out and drive a 1970 HLS30U 240Z. It is soft, it squats, the steering is vague at high speed, and the wheels rumble. There is no acceptance of the sacred going on. That's how it was and the BRE championship car addressed every one of those issues in it's "stock" racing trim. There are plenty of us here who question the "sacred", but I don't seem to think we have an issue with what John wrote. I know John and his forward reads to me just like I was talking to him. Chris

Carl, I don't understand what you mean by "huge idea".

I can't seem to find the photos of Nissan's crash testing program for the 240Z It was a discussion a l o n g time ago and there were photos of the test cars and dummies, etc. In the archives - somewhere. My opinion is kind of a wierd one, perhaps. I'm a believer in air bags and have seen plenty of people walk away from wrecks that would have killed them otherwise. You are not very safe in an S30 chassis - not at all. A later 280 Z chassis is probably better than something like my early chassis, but either way. The cars crumple badly. There's a good chance you have survived a 40 mph front impact, KDMatt, but it would have totalled my Z and probably yours. I suggest the first rule of thumb when driving a car. Don't hit anything. :-)

Greetings! I'm surprised we haven't seen Carl yet. I know he wants to talk about the book. I saw Carl at a car show last weekend, but we didn't get a chance to bring it up. Pete Evanow was with Nissan for four years during the financial crisis period around 1997. He managed the Z-Store program which is my primary interest in this book. He says he wrote an "insider's report" and I think his perspective should be considered. I think the material we read should be given this context. I also believe that the mistakes we have pointed out concerning the Japanese cars are characteristic of attention given to the subject in America all the way up to the insider's level. As sarcastic as that may sound, I mean no offense. That is just the way it is in America, I find. Very few people know anything about the Japanese cars. Having said all this, I can cut the poor guy some slack and go back to what I originally said about the book. For most people, this is a good, all-around, get to know the Z story, beginning text. The pictures are nice and plentiful, so you will have a pretty good idea of what you are looking at when you see the real cars, posters and memorabilia. In terms of a strict historical document, it is not. Subjects like the Datsun / Nissan name change are editorialized. Topics I would think important are not covered very well from my perspective and leave me with more questions. But that's Ok! I was interested in what he put together and he has some great pictures! Several comments have been made about writing an accurate account of the historical facts. I want to comment by saying that any historical account is always going to be through the eyes of the writer. In our case with Mr. Evanow, we see a story from a car guy limited to four years of exposure during an unattractive period in the company history. The effects on him and his fellow employees must have taken some toll. I wonder how it is reflected in his book?

Hi Guus! A great many of my pictures come from Alan. I have seen other copies of the one of 26, but the one of 27 is from him. The color pictures come from a Bonhams catalog when the cars were on sale last. I have no problem with using the pictures. Alan? Chris

You have a door panel for a right-hand drive application. Quite common. They are the only new original ones remaining.

MSA cam kits come from Schneider Racing Cams. Nothing shabby about their cams. http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50.htm

Here is what I believe happened to most of the Rallye / Competition parts from HS30-00026. Start comparing pictures. And finally, the car we are discussing at the Bonhams auction. See the differences? I just went back to the auction - 14 bids up to $9,000 and the seller maintains authenticity. (Edit) In support of what Alan is saying, it is my understanding that the real HS30-00026 was crashed - rolled - and written off.

A few pictures from my files. What I believe to be closest to the truth of the issue. I will also note that I have communicated with Mr. Bradburn about this particular car as well as others. Here are what I believe to be the real HS30-00026 and HS30-00027.

That's a pretty good price, too. You can buy all sorts of sportswear / clothing directly from Nissan / Nismo if you like. They have a full catalog. Shoot on down to your local dealer.