26th-Z

When I drew the drawing in my gallery, I imported the .jpg and scaled it to approximatley the metric dimensions shown by laying out the size in Cad with construction lines. Then I traced over the lines using the curve and line command. Once I got the basic curves and lines drawn, I edited the lines to make the endpoints meet. I didn't spend a lot of time accurately tracing the picture or making sure the picture was a matching scale. It's close, but it could be better. Lets see if this replacement picture will load. Its nice and large.

I haven't done any research work, however I will some time in the future when I start restoring consoles. I'm headed for SEM products. Kats told me about a filler material he used from SEM. But this is a problem like getting a pinhole leak in the radiator. The problem is far greater than one or two cracks. The covering has dried out and it is seriously fragile. Eventually, the Z car dash is going to crumble to dust. About a year or so ago, this club went through a big dash restoration project and a bunch of us shipped our dashes to Australia to be recovered. I think everyone was pleased, but we were all whincing from the price we paid. At this point, I would say that having the dash recovered is the first class way to go and perfectly acceptable. Full dash caps are fine, but noticeable. Half caps are hard to fit, but they work well also. I would suggest that once you glue a cap on the dash, there is no turning back.

Rubber parts source http://166.82.96.9/homeframes.html Steele Rubber Parts. See their add in Hemmings.

Sorry to just post the link to my drawing and blow town. I drew that picture in AutoCad when I did a garage for Carl Beck. He never built the garage. That drawing is by no means accurate enough to model. I just drew it - like a CAD hand drawing, if there is such a thing. I have drawings of all kinds of cars, F1 racers, motorcycles, boats. I use them for presentation architectural plans. Send me your e-mail address and I'll copy some .dwg files to you AutoCad buffs. I picked up AutoCad v.2 when I was using VersiCAD in a UCSD Pascal P-system environment. I am a retired DOS-Meister. Bet you guys didn't know that. These days, I just surf porn sites and pay some young kid to service the computer network. So....I suggest the easiest thing might be to draw plans and elevations from the design drawings in the Factory Service Manuals. Mark, your idea has some great merit to it. I don't think anyone is going to come up with any earth shattering aerodynamic discovery, but it sounds like a fun project and if pictures can be posted, they would be fun to see and discuss. I think we pretty much know all about the aerodynamics of the S30. Perhaps the information that has been published has now become collector's items. I think a new discussion would be appropriate. I'll warn you all, though. You're going to find out that the S30 is an aerodynamic...what was that?....turd in a punchbowl? TOO FUNNY! I don't think there is any need to expend a bunch of time and energy on "laser 3D profile dynamic surveys". The information you might get from all that accuracy isn't going to have any application value. If you want an aerodynamicly efficient Zcar, buy a 350.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5479&cat=500&page=8

I'll post another thread to get this in front of everyone again. This issue contains all kinds of other good reading. How many times do I hear questions about changing U-joints? Great "how to" article. How about skim coat filler body work? There is a nice conversation with Barry Mequire - wax and polish mogul. This is a keeper issue and a Z is on the cover. A yellow Z!

Yes, the subject involves several other issues such as pitch-roll-yaw and drag. From what I read, the Nissan rear spoiler was designed and placed to destroy lift by separating the accelerated boundary layer of air traveling over the hatch. I don't think it has anything to do with the rear suspension exclusively. There was data available from Jim Cook Racing lab work conducted in the late '70s which points to the same conclusions. Suffice to say that the S30 produces lift causing instability and that the BRE combo spook / spoiler is a real good "bang-for-the-buck" solution. The setup closely mimics the Nissan solution and even though it produces more drag, it probably helps with cooling better. I'll reiterate my point and that is the combination of equipment gives the best results.

Not a problem, Alan. We are getting off the topic and loosing ground on factual information anyhow. My suggestion to Patrick was simply do both the front spook and the rear spoiler. Not just one. I don't have time to argue my reasons. Carl, how about if we just agree to not talk about automotive aerodynamics. I'm really not up on the fine points luggage influence. In the mean time, you might go back to your Z Car magazines and read the articles Ben Millspaugh, Phd,. Aerospace, wrote in 1995. That would be good reading for anyone who is interested in Z car aerodynamics. Thanks

Heads up all kinds of people here! July issue #115 - Classic Motorports. Not only the road test comparison between the 240Z, TR6, MGB, 914, and Volvo 142S but.... Shelby's Toyotas: A Look Back at the Historic 2000GTs

Hey sopwith! Over here in Loxahatchee, we got Carroll Snailby- fastest woman clay track land speed record driver ever. You should see her weave her way through the sugar cane fields! She was gonna do a cover for Spots Illustrious magazine, but they wanted a smile photo and she ain't got no teeth. Best damned kep secert. You go ahead and keep boasting about Indianapolis, but they're snickering at you down there in Loxy. "Why are the media and some fans are so passionate about her that they're willing to blow her accomplishments out of proportion and ignore other deserving drivers in order to create a hero?" Because she is unique! :stupid: She's young, cute, fit and fast. You can pronounce her name. She's All American. And let's face it, she's fast. I hear that Bobby Rahal scouted her from an English Formula Ford series. She was runner-up in one of the old Toyota Atlantic seasons. Quite frankly, she turned "a miserable race that doesn't matter" into the cover of Sports Illustrated. She is exactly what the 500 needed and precisely what a serious group of people have been trying to do with F1. Danica put on a show. Danica is on the cover of Sports Illustrated because she did what Danny Sullivan did - she spun in the middle of the race and survived. She has made Bobby Rahal so much damned money in the last week, it is incredable. The All American kid is exactly the hero all Americans want for their All American race of races and they finally got it. And she was a girl! Even better. I'm sorry to say that no one cares about Fillipe Giaffone. They can't even pronounce his name. The first comment I hear about the guy who won, is: "yea, a Brit". So there is my answer to your curiosity. I think it is even greater that she didn't win the race. She won the publicity race and you can bet that she will win races in the future. She has the car and team behind her and she is making them a ton of money. She is exactly what Americans want. __________________

Hey sopwith! Dirt track racing mecca in Loxahatchee, Florida. Home of the Southern Hemisphere Hog Pull. Over 20 million people toured the museum and attended the Hog Pull last year. There. Change your avatar. You guys are taking this all too seriously. I can't help but chuckle. Memories take me back to the SCCA beer parties in Palm Beach when the likes of Rahal, Guthrie, and St. James were thrashing it out. Bobby Rahal had an incredible Ralt.

"Car & Driver also tested the factory front spoiler and found it to be all but ineffective. It only protruded down about 3.5" and had no significant effect on reducing lift." That is a correct statement only regarding Car & Driver's article. There are other tests, including Nissan's that convey different results. That's why the cars were fitted with the devices to begin with. Car & Driver, as well as BRE / Interpart, recommend both devices - front and rear. "The additional lift at the rear is hardly noticeable... and all but gone if you are packed for a road trip." That is a subjective statement that cannot be substantiated. What does it mean? Every time you want stability in the rear end at speed, you put a couple of concrete blocks back there?

You guys are too much. Geez, Beaver, give it a rest! Indy is Indy and it always will be. Yes, racing capital of the world as well as greatest spectacle in motor racing. No justification required - that's just the way it is. Good on the young lass. She gave excitement and controversy to what was otherwise another boring roun-D-round. Very few spin at Indy and survive. For all the bumping and bashing that went on, I would say it was a very good show. Best Indy show I have seen in recent memory.

Ben, I always took you for a waxing sort of guy. You surprise me. I have been using a polymer sealer and glazing system made by Klasse lately. But if I may... - ...point out some things and make some comments. Metallic blue / light blue is probably the worst color for sun damage and fading. Your color will only last as long as you care for it. Red colors are similar. The clay bars are effective for removing environmental polution damage as dust fuses with the paint surface. Keep the surface you are working with the clay bar very wet and lubricated. I fold the clay bar over on itself every now and then to get a clean surface and not wipe the dirt it is picking up. Very light pressure wiping motions. You will feel the surface clean up. Clay cleaning is serious and should only be done occasionally. Normal waxing cleaners should keep the paint surface free from the contaminants most of the time. There are waxes and then there are waxes. No fooling you get what you pay for and the better stuff gives you better looking results. But wax evaporates. My car sits out most of the day and in the Florida sun, I wax every month. Then I bought this stuff called Klasse from a club member and I swear by it. My latest secret car shine goo. It says to use it every six months, but I have been doing the car every three. Back to zero's original question about what to do with a crappy paint job. The only way to get the runs and puddles out is to sand them - as suggested, block wet-sand with 600 grit and finer. Buffing the car may be the easiest solution for the most immediate satisfaction. It is well worth the cost to take it to a detailer and have it done. Then you can become a waxing queen. Remember: a waxed car is 5mph faster.

I had a half dash cap once.

Hey ya, Z Babe! The horn pad on the left looks like 48410-E4600, but mine has a Datsun emblem in the middle. The pad on the right looks like N3500, but the parts book shows it with a Z logo. 7 - 73 is the change date.

Hi zman! No, you can't screw in new floor panels. They would need to be welded in. Replace your wheel cylinder. Replace or repair your exhaust leaks. Check the advance mechanism of your distributer and set the timing, adjust the valves, before you go messing with the carbs.

Will, Haven't had too much to say. The car went into park mode and I got on to some other things. The engine is rebuilt. I have also been working on the Vintage Z paper. A lot of time has gone into research and gathering information. I'm still on for a compendium at the national convention. I guess de-railing comes in many forms! It's time to shell out the $1,400 to have the car dipped and here goes the savings account. I'm going to try to do all the welding work in one shot, get the car to primer, and stand back to look at the finanaces. If we do well, I may get her green by the end of summer. That would be nice. I have two ways to go at the moment. It seems I found another welding "arrangement". The PLAN was to roll the car between my shop and the body shop - one building next to mine. "Beautiful-Body Rick" was going to weld with his equipment and I was going to grind, cut and fit. Rick and I have this scheme to spray the insides of the chassis with primer using long plastic wands on pump-up garden sprayers. Without any seam sealer in the car, the primer would just run all over the place, but everything would get covered. Then we would do the weld routine. This scheme was developed a long time ago and is why my shop is where it is. Rick won't take my car into his shop because he doesn't want it taking up space. Having the paint shop right around the corner is way convenient. The new scheme is to leave the car in Wauchula with Don. Dennis and Don bought the place while 26th was there. Don did contract work for the old owners and was involved with a rod shop in Largo. So Don moved his metal shop to Wauchula. Right now, he is working on a Pantera shell. Around Wednesday, I'm going over there for lunch and talk with Don. 26th should be dry and up on saw horses by then. It will be my first look at what metal really wasn't there. Fooled-ya!!! Ru-ust!!!! I know there are some serious issues and it becomes a matter of how much cutting and fitting I want to do. If all the little crap adds up to "lets just replace the floor" or "lets just replace the rail", then I might be inclined to leave 26th with Don. I'm already planning on rear dog legs and some rear wheel arch work. The best part of this deal is that they will dip the car again after all the welding work. Both guys charge the same hourly. Both guys invoice the same - labor and materials - monthly. One place I pay for the grinding and fitting and cutting. The other situation, I do it. Then there is the argument that I make money faster, sitting here drawing, than the welding shop spends it and that I am better served having the pros do it. We'll just have to see how bad the rust really was. It may cost me a bunch more, but I really like the idea of dipping the car after the welding work is finished. I guess its a matter of how right is doing it right? The down side to this is that I will not get to lay on my back underneath a car in the swealtering summer heat grinding away at a piece of metal I can't really see because my face mask is all fogged up and sweat is running in my eyes.

There's that famous Z look! Without the front bumper, kinda looks like a 350Z, huh? Nice paint job on the second Z, but I don't like the WHITE wheels. Cute little Porsche. Is the GT 500 a Hertz? Nice Cobra. Thanks for the pics. Looks like you had fun!

Hey Will, I'm so creamy with excitement, I can't stand it. Little miss 26 - finally - bare metal! ! ! Its been six damned months ! I have my work ahead. Here are some shots from last weekend when they were stripping her. There are some holes in the firewall to fill from the old A/C. The battery box area is just on the verge. I'll have better, really bare metal, pictures this week. Then the fun starts! You are probably right about the crack problems in the roof seam. I fixed 26th some ten years ago and so far...so good. No crack. With my luck, it will be the first thing that happens after the resto is complete. I totally agree with the price of tools issue. Shopping for tools is fun and Eastwood will always get you going! They have some cool stuff. Rust has definitely been my favorite color but its getting rather dated. And all the flaking is embarrassing. I'm going to get a kick out of bare metal. And POR? I just don't think its appropriate. I just don't like the stuff. I guess I should keep my mouth shut. I don't have some expertise, knowledge that convinces me the stuff is crap. I have no mission. I just don't like it. I'm skeptical.

S30 body shells have lead fill in the seam between the roof and the rear quarter. There is also lead fill at the base of the windshield posts. Those areas should never need attention, however the roof seam can crack. I just got a new Eastwood catalog and noted the couple of pages they have devoted to lead products. Their material products are 70% lead and 30% tin which have a "plastic" temperature range of around 100 degrees. They also have a lead-free material. They have the wooden paddles and of course, all the body files. I'll also opinionate that I think Eastwood is expensive, but I generally think their merchandise is first rate quality. Once you get into it, you'll find all kinds of products out there. Lead is a good material to use for finishing weld repair areas and areas where surface rust has pitted the metal badly. Where a straight body line is required, lead is in my opin, the way to go. Lead is filed smooth - never sand lead and protect yourself from the dust - always. I do not like POR. I think POR stands for "Previous Owner's Repair" and because this thread is entitled "Doing it Right", I'll voice my arrogant, purist attitude. Plastic body fillers with metal dust are right up there too. Doing it right means cutting out the rust area and welding in new metal. I like the look of painted metal.

Hey there! Eastwood sells plenty of body working / metal working videos. Very inspirational. At least you get the chance to watch someone explain what they are doing and why. Eastwood sells the tools and kits to get you started, if you want to learn. One of the first things you will learn, as I did, is that you don't fill holes with lead. You fill holes with metal. Lead is filler for seams and dimples, just like bondo is supposed to be used. After lead is placed, it is filed with a rasp as compared with sanding methods for bondo. One can easily see how bondo took over the market. Keep in mind though, that 240Zs have lead fill issues and thus makes it important for our brand of people to keep the knowledge going. Learn to work lead. Thank you

Alan hit the nail on the head concerning Zeitgeist of design in the middle sixties. Several cars look very similar. I don't subscribe to any theory that any of these cars had anything to do with Matsuo's design. Let me show you some pictures. First the common picture comparison including Alan's comment about the Ferrari. Then two pictures - a Maserati and Model C-3 - both from 1966. Matsuo conveyed to me how shocked he was to see the Maserati and how similar it was to the models he was working on. Finally, a Matsuo design sketch. Sure there are similarities, but that is pretty much where it ends. Matsuo was influenced, of course, as any designer would be. However, there is no historical basis to conclude a specific derivation. Matsuo was not involved in any of the R380 work that was going on at the time. He was working within an independent studio. There is historical basis to show how the unique design identity of the S30 evolved.

I'm glad you posted your comments, Alan. Many of the things you cited from the article didn't sound correct forcing me at pen-point to consult my Japanese literature. I was hoping you would see this and comment. Thanks.

Looks like a Nardi steering wheel? Very nice. I have heard that the "Datsun Griffin" logo is a complete fabrication. Does anyone know the history of this logo?