26th-Z

It is probably quite incorrect to use a Muslim reference these days, but whilst outside the homeland, one must make pilgrimage to the various substantial collections around the world. Thus Z Mecca in Tampa. We had a gathering this weekend and we were talking about you, Alan! Our gathering had a very distinct Japanese flavor as you might guess. Yes, I noticed the Kameari reference and the very reason I sat up and took notice is because I know you are well aquainted with their performance parts. Much of the catalog was explained to me this weekend. I'm still in a mild state of drool.

Hi Eric, I didn't realize what the DVD was when I was watching it and I will have to ask about it and the region free situation. Give me some time and I'll see what kind of advice I can get. The video I watched was in Japanese - there's hope!

Thanks Guus! Nice reference. I collect 1:24 kits and have quite a few.

Hello Kats! Great video!

The same thing happened to me, Carl. I right clicked and saved to file on my computer. So thinking this was the neatest video, I took it and a catalog from "Pit Road" http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~kyuusya/index-3.htm up to Z Mecca in Tampa this weekend. While there, I got to see a video of Japanese drag racing, two of the Sagamiko events Alan posted pictures of, and that "Best Motoring" video we talked about. Geez! I thought I had some good footage?! Slapped on some Japanese this weekend I did... Eric, where can I get a copy of the Best Motoring videos? DVD. They were cool. Got a big lesson in cylinder head design from the Japanese drag racers. I saw mid elevens and one 11.2 These guys are spending $15,000 on their engines. Something like the LY head is unobtanium. You have to know someone who has one well enough to obtain one. The OS Giken heads are pretty much the same story. They trade privately. What is so great about the video is getting a glimpse at hundreds of thousands of dollars being spent!

My model web site in Japan says your kit is discontinued. A good friend got one for Christmas. I just started a Nissan R89C and just ordered a mechanical parts kit for it and a detail parts kit. I'll take some photos. Studio 27 just came out with a Nissan 88G kit and I am drooling, but they want $155 for the kit and it is just a little out of reach at the moment.

We're exactly the same age, Art. What time were you born? A friend of mine's father bought Her Majesty - the first Z I ever saw. Back in '70, I had a '65 bug also. But I had a TR-3 I bought for $50 as a fix-up project. Glad to meet all you guys. A 240Z is a great car for young and old alike! Enjoy the ride.

Way to go guys! AutoX up in Ocala, eh? That could be too much fun! Pray for good weather and bring sunscreen!

I agree, Alfadog! I have one of my old drawing tables set up in the spare bedroom. So much of this is painting which takes a lot of time. You must be working on one of the large scale ZG models? Tamyia? I was bitten by the model bug several months ago and found some great kits in Japan. I like the 1/24 scale. Now I see some metal etched part kits to suppliment a couple of the race cars. The little metal etched bits really make a difference.

I captured the file to disk and watched it. I just can't get the pdf file you were talking about. Nice film clips both. They wasted a bunch of time trying to get the engine started. Like I want to watch that! Nice throaty sound to it, though. 8500 rpm!

Hey Ben, Thats what I thought. He sure got the door slammed on him! See him try to take the inside? Is that a SSS 4-door sedan? Damn! it humms. I'm having trouble with the second link, Eric. Will try again later.

Many thanks! Gave my Friday a smile of a start! Great story, great web sites, and only you would have an autographed photo, Alan! When you are photographing through glass, use a polarizing filter and adjust the glare out.

John, I'm confused. By reading your thread, I understand that the engine number does not match the car VIN? Well, it shouldn't. For instance, Her Majesty is HLS30-00026 and the engine number is L24- 2338. Then you asked if the value of the car would be less with a different engine than original. In my opinion, most definitely. Finally, in my opinion, $7,500 is a lot of money for a non-matching car. If it is simply a nice "used" car worth $7,500, fine. But matching numbers is a basic requirement for anything represented as "restored".

Well, it involved reading, Carl. Hey Mark! Your two valves on the right match mine. Notice the brand new one is correct, but the casting is not the same?

If that cars was as nice as it looked in the pictures, seerex, hhm stupid dealer! $5,000 sounds really cheap.

That was great! Thanks! Ben, is that Akamatsu's car that was at the convention last June?

Sorry also to jump into this so late. This is one of those conversations that sends you to the garage for a while! Her Majesty had her emissions removed as a child and never has had all that garbage, but Princess 27 has been turning out to be a remarkably original car - - - covered in rust. Everything seems to be there. The AB valve is like your one on the right, Marty. It has the angled fitting for the hose to the carb and it has the slot in the bottom of the casting. I took pictures and will post them later.

Thanks for your suggestions, Enrique. If the car was sandblasted, 120 is a little harsh. And I would hand sand the car as I think the orbital is a little rough also. I am also assuming that there is no metal work involved and it is ready to prepare for paint? Sand it down with 220 - 400 grit using long strokes as though you were seriously wiping the car down. Sand it as though you were polishing it. Vacumn the dust out of the car with a brush. Wipe the car down with OSPHO as though it was a cleaner and then wipe it all off. Use cotton towels. After a sand blasting, what you are probably trying to do is get the metal polished smooth again. No more tools should be needed. The smoother you get the metal, the less work you will have to do when you prime the car. At this point, you have bare metal. All the OSPHO is going to do is protect it for 24 hours from developing flash rust. In your case, PyroSparks, I suggest you wipe the car down with OSPHO.

Here is my best kept secret to model cars. I have ordered from Japan many times - pay through Paypal - and it works. Shipping costs are not all that bad. Check out their prices. Work the search engine on the website and be amazed at what you find. http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?EBR43627 and home page www.hlj.com Have fun.

Sand, OSPHO, primer

Speaking of Fairlady....What is a Cedric? Why would you name a car "Cedric"?

Phosphoric acids will eat metal, but a light solution like OSPHO is readily used for painted metal applications. The phosphoric acids turn ferrous ions into some inert, usually black looking, material. I have soaked rusted metal in OSPHO for long periods and it will eventually eat right down to the bare metal. Wipe off all the excess and let it dry. Technically, bare metal will start to rust the second it is exposed to the atmosphere. OSPHO treats and seals the metal from those moments. I have heard of "metal ready" and think it is the same stuff. Use a good, high, quality etching primer within 24 hours and you have done about the best you can do.

OSPHO is a very mild (15%) solution of phosphoric acid and is considered an "encapsulator" product. Paint applications can be made over it. It will etch the metal and seal the surface from what is called flash rusting - typical after sand blasting. Your body man is correct. It should take you about a day to sand and metal prep the car for spraying primer. Sand the car lightly, spray on the OSPHO and let it dry, then wipe the car down before you primer.

Old car guy statement: "If you smell gasoline, you have a leak." Gas fumes are dangerous and you really need to track it down. A vent hose leak will tend to smell when you fill the car up with gas. A fuel pressure leak will tend to smell when the car is running. You mentioned putting a new fuel pump on. Go back and check your work and the vent hoses around the tank. Good luck.

Here we go again http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4522052947&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT