26th-Z

Girls, I'm tired of the American bashing. It is non-productive, unfriendly, and it isn't funny. One does not make themselves better by putting others down.

Here is what I was looking for. I clipped this from the original brochure - 1970. See how the valance matches the hubcaps? The grill is the same color. It is not real dark charcoal..

Good to see you back CoastGuardZ.

Hell yes a 240Z is faster than a 280Z!!!! :tapemouth Take that door panel off and tune up your locking mechanisms! They are really simple. So simple, in fact, that they wear out...go figure. There are several plastic pieces and adjustment screws to fool with. Some times the plastic washer / spacers break and fall out leaving a lot of slop in the adjustment geometry. Make sure everything is in place and not worn out / replace the broken plastic so that the mechanism operates directly and snug. Lubricate the hell out of the mechanism and get it real clean. I prefer lithium grease when I put them all back together. For a 240 Z, the doors should only lock when they are closed.

Great blurb about what investment quality cars are doing in the market today. Compare the five year averages with the last year averages. Zeds are on the gain!!!! Great time to buy a collector Zed. Glad to see old Zeds are newsworthy. How about the "poor man's Corvette" comment? And the rust comment!!!!! A-men!!!!

The valve cover is cast aluminum which polishes very well. It can be chrome plated but it sounds like it was polished. The head gasket goes between the cast iron engine block (blue) and the cast aluminum head (silver). It sounds like you are looking at an engine that had a valve job recently?

Her Majesty has just been informed that the hose will be appearing at the national convention next summer. She is very fond of the car it will go on. It hails from the Banzai Spa, a most respected restoration authority. The buyer told Her Majesty that he thought the sale price was quite reasonable. Can you believe that? Reasonable..... Her Majesty is pursuing a relationship and has made advances with a fabrics suitor in the Northeast. Some scheme is afoot to cover regular hose with the new fabric (by hand, of course) and I will let you all know how that works out. Oh...and Ed, the hose was sold by the same guy who sold a lower hose about a month ago. I forget what it went for - $127?

My dearest gentle suck-up, The electro-chemical dipping process you describe is performed for cars of distinction by the exclusive spa "Revivations" in the sparkling metropolis of Wauchula, Florida. All Datsuns of serious pedegree attend, however Her Majesty was horrified to discover that they also cater to other such rif-raf as classic pick-up trucks and (dare I mention it?) muscle cars. Princess 27 thought the place was cool as a couple of her dancer buddies, Mercedes and Porsche, attend frequently. I am begining to see the twins are going to take a while getting used to each other. They are already arguing over who is going to wear what part!!! The electro-chemical stripping process includes a dip in a stripping tank along with a power spray wash of water. It is a some sort of paint stripper solution which Revivations claim is not acid. The final dip is in a heated alkaline solution (baking soda). A sacrificail anode is used to "reverse the rusting process" by passing a DC current through the tank. Ferrous ions are drawn off the metal leaving a completely derusted piece. Wherever there was rust is now gone leaving 100% bare metal. This process will not harm the lead fillers or the plastic padding on the wiring harness tabs as long as no rust is present. For instance, it won't harm properly applied bondo where there is no rust underneath. The greatest thing about this process is that it removes the rust ferrous ions completely, inside and out. No blasting process does. The bare metal dries with a dust of baking soda on it to prevent flash rust. I have seen parts go 6 weeks or so without flash rust. Revivations gets around $1500 to do the chassis only. Doors, hood, body parts are extra. They do gas tanks, wheels, you-name-it. If it is rusted, they will take the rust off. They just did a metal shingle roof for a client of mine. Great place. Seriously slow and royaly pricey. Kathy is also quite capable of recommending the best and most expensive places to have other parts restored. Pioneer Restorations next door does complete automotive restorations - museum quality. Revivations / Pioneer Auto Restoration, Inc. 122 South 8th Avenue Wauchula, Florida 33873 Kathy 863.773.9152 The tail light valance is painted a charcoal grey. I have heard arguments about the value of the color - ranging between a #4 warm and a #8 warm grey. I will probably go for a lighter value, but I think it should match the grill and hubcaps. I bought authentic engine paint from Mike McGinnis at Banzai to discover he was using the same source as I had been tempted to use. I'm going to take that formula to www.towerpaint.com and see what it looks like. The original finish is an unpolished lacquer which does not take wax very easily. It seems the color fades quite easily. Older, used examples of mine are much lighter than my new examples. Perhaps thus the controversy? I'll be posting pictures of my experiences with the dipping process. I was just about to start with 26 when I bought 27. I'll also return to this thread in the future to discuss my thoughts on the paint color. Let me get a can of this and see what it looks like. Chris

Article in this morning's Wall Street Journal http://online.wsj.com/public/resources/documents/info-invcar04.html?printVersion=true Includes the 1971 Datsun 240 Z recommended buy. Thought you might be interested.

Yep...Here it is again in the newer scriptures, C-0010U of the S30, 4th overall revision, up to December 1973. Very clearly 74300-N3350 for the manual transmission and E8804 for the automatic. The sills were superceeded 7 / 72 from 76410-E4600 to E8800. I just love the royal archives!!!! Are those Asian twins, Greyghost?

I am guessing....but this is what shows up in the royal archives..... 74300-E4600 is superceeded to 74300-N3350 Assembly - floor front (fnt) - get this...$395.95 plus $39.30 from Oregon. Now, it looks like the inner rockers need to be ordered separately. And there is a difference between the manual floor and the automatic floor. The application lists the same number up to 72. Maybe the inner rocker sill changes with the seat belt bubble?

Hey Ben, Troy from "Too Intense" put in a bid. I think I recognize Les Canaday there also. Who is plumprandy? It is going to be hard for me to believe the mileage, but it IS possible. Looks like a super nice car.

Make me smile, 240ZX. That is probably the one piece 27 does NOT need!! I think it has tremendous sculptural art value. But leave it in the crate!!! I'm telling you. That piece would draw as much attention at a car show!!!!

No whining at all, Alan. I think you just made some very good points and explained your position very well. And I don't particularly disagree with you. In fact, pointing out your "technique" of posting known copyrighted material with your intent is very well put. Your association of photograph to topic is an excellent way to express intent. In that respect, a gallery posting would be much less appropriate. Your other comments about litigation are well expressed also. I can tell you from experience that when a situation gets to lawers and courtrooms, the only thing we know for sure is that a lot of money will be spent. Or made! Respect for the watermark is key. I see the use of a watermark much more frequently and I agree that it is inappropriate to crop it off. I'll bet the original intent of this site's gallery, or most others, is to file and display images that might otherwise require special software that individual users may not have on thier computers. Our gallery also contains the structure to hold "collections" from contributers - say - the collection of photos from the national convention. In that respect, I would think that everyone's individual gallery is simply their personal collection. I think of it that way. What might be appropriate to say is that when one posts an image, they are sharing. Sharing is a basic act of friendship. Sharing also requires that once something is shared, contributed, given away, it is no longer subject to conditions. It has been "given away". One is to be commended for sharing. We celebrate sharing on this site and those who put in a lot of effort to share. Thanks for sharing, Alan. Chris

Unbelieveable Indeed! Thanks for the pictures.

I am very happy to see this poll. Thanks, Mike. I wish to point out that copyright laws DO exist already and that anyone is entitled to pursue litigation under the protection of copyright laws. In all the circumstances that I have read in previous posts about this topic, only one complaint seems to be legitimate. Evidently, someone copied someone's photo and is selling it on eBay. That is a copyright violation. Everything else is not. One of the most vocal complainers about this topic scans and posts copyrighted material all the time. The information is posted without any intent to sell; it is for informational purposes only. That is no different from anyone else posting the same information elsewhere. It is a right we enjoy called "freedom of the press". It is a shame people take offense from their copied pictures, but in the United States of America, we are free to do that. One of the things that makes this site above and beyond all the other sites dealing with our subject is the photography. I truly believe that locking up the galleries will diminish this site and cause it's demise.

GunnerRob, The hubcaps shown are not 'D' hubcaps. They are appropriate for the model / year car. 'D' hubcaps would be inappropriate. karst, Rubber tips between the bumper and the body would not be appropriate for this model / year car. In fact, rubber tips are not appropriate for any HLS30 to the best of my knowledge. Gear shift boots are vinyl except for 1969 built cars - perhaps. I'm still researching that one.

Drop dead fantastic site!!!! Wow Thanks!!!!

Testimonial I have been using PB Blaster for years. Great stuff, and easy for me to find at most any parts house. Kroil is just as good, but I have a hard time finding it. I use WD 40 as more of an all purpose lubricating fluid. WD 40 will dry. BTW, WD 40 is great for getting your kid's gum out of your cloth car seats. With regard to the brass hammer comment, breaking the rusted connection is just the begining of the battle. Try breaking the nut or bolt free by torquing it both ways - on and off. Once you seem to get the connection free, work it back and forth with more liberal amounts of PB Blaster or Kroil to lubricate and clean the rest of the threads. You can break a bolt or a stud on the last threads just as easily. The comment about letting the penetrating oil set for a while is appropriate also. Let the penetrating oil do the work and give it time. Thanks for the encouragement! I deal with rusted crap all the time. It builds patience and moral character to become victorious over the situation!

P.B. Blaster www.blasterproducts.com

Ah, yes. The '73 dressed up to look like a '71. I hate it when the buyer's ID is kept private!

Oh, I never see an S30 on a lot down here. I see dealers advertise on the internet.

Yes...go figure. The 1970 LOW value is higher than the rest.

You know though, Carl, the prices we see advertised by dealers on dealer lots pretty much fall into line. I have seen a couple of LOW early cars sell in Florida recently for about $1500 less than the N.A.D.A. LOW. Actually...scooped up.