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Everything posted by 26th-Z
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John Morton with a gift of model cars from the Nismo Team
26th-Z posted a gallery image in 04 National Convention
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Hey Mark, I haven't seen D hubcaps on eBay for a while. Those are "ready to be restored" meaning re-chromed and re-painted. Still, I have to agree with you and estimate at least $75 each.
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Old news, Guus. Eric has had those for sale for quite some time. Watch who you are calling four-eyes, Vicky:finger:
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I have some video tapes on sheet metal work that I got from Eastwood. http://blakkat.com/shopping/stores/eastwoodtools.htm Covell is the name of the guy who did them and they are real fun and inspirational to watch. You will soon find out that your inventory of tools may be a little short. Covell makes suggestions on welding techniques and metall hammering techniches showing you how to stretch and shrink the metal with a hammer and a dolly. He also discusses patching rust spots and such. You can get new metal from various places. Charlie Osborne at Zedd http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm has probably the most popular floor pans and frame rails. Tabco http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm is where I bought some rocker pieces and fender arch beads. I think VB and MSA have metal also. A web search on automotive sheet metal repair should turn up lots of information and various sites with books to sell. Have fun. Too much rust is when you get tired of working on the car and haul it off.
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I know that the fuel tanks for the installation you are discussing, alien-e, are different - yes indeed. I understand that they are somewhat custom fabricated. Alan T. "HS30-H" is going to be the best source here. Try looking in his gallery .
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Way to Go, Mark!!! That's the spirit!!! I am soooo glad I didn't get into that. One year ago, a PAIR of hoses went for around $100. I was surprised the hose sat at a low price for so long. The auction is raising hairs on all the forums - but I have seen this sort of thing going on for some time now. The rare early stuff is SERIOUSLY expensive and the competition is fierce.
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Hey there 260Z, I have a Nissan parts book dated December 1973 which covers the 240 and the 260 for USA and Canada cars. It shows the standard tools and the optional ones with an OP abbreviation. To the best of my knowledge, the standard tools were just for changing a tire. I believe the jacks are all the same, but I know the jack handles are different and I do not have the one illustrated in the book. I don't have a scanner, either, or I would scan this page for you. I'll work on it. The tool boxes in the chassis changed, as you know, and I'm not real sure how the tools fit in the later boxes. I have clips on the floor of the chassis for the jack and wheel chocks, just behind the seats with the little plastic covers. Your car probably has the boxes with lids in the rear deck? Your screw driver is different from the set shown in the parts catalog also. Not surprising though. Does your screw driver have a part number? From my book the set of drivers should be 99530-E4100. Does the shaft detach from the handle? Now the E4100 usually designates the early parts for the series one 240 - and that number could be suspect. In addition to all that junk you see in the picture, I have a head bolt Allen driver and a valve adjustment wrench. The black box in the background is a Nissan factory service tool box and needs to be restored to the original silver-grey color. Here are a few factory service tools and the page from the parts catalog describing them. That three-prong thing is the very usefull automatic transmission clutch spring compressor. Show and tell is so much fun!!!
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If you guys are interesting in plastic model kits, I found this place to be excellent. http://www.hlj.com/ They send the kits to you and don't let the "out of stock" worry you. I have purchased a dozen kits from them (everything you see "rare, rare, rare" on eBay) at quite reasonable prices including postage from Japan. Although I had to wait for a while on some kits, I eventually got everything I ordered. The kits are all first rate.
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Hello NovaSS and welcome to the club. Congrats on owning a '69 - my favorite year as well. That car of yours could be pretty valuable and I would recommend you consider it that way. It is truly rare in America. Who cares what year it was registered. The question of which came first, the Fairlady Z or the 240 Z, has been thoroughly thrashed in the bowels of the archives and I'm sure you will find some great reading. Bluntly answered - both. Fairlady was a name given to the Nissan SPL212 in 1960 by Katsuji Kawamata with the intention of using the name to market the car in America. It comes from the Broadway musical "My Fair Lady". Fairlady was associated with the sport roadster series all through the '60s. When Nissan introduced the S30 series in 1969, it used several names to represent the various models it intended to market. Datsun was used to market cars in America and comes from the DAT car lineage - part of the Nissan corporation. The S30s bound for America were marketed as Datsun 240 Zs and the S30s that were built for the home market were labeled Fairlady Zs. It is quite clear that both were produced at the same time from the very begining. Variations in the specific chassis designation include S30S, PS30, PS30SB, HS30, and HLS30 depending on the market and the engine installed. Serial number 144 would put your car in the November / December 1969 production range. You should also find quite a few peculiar parts and production techniques unique to the early production of the series. I want to emphasize how valuable your car could be to the collector world. I see prices for the Nissan Restoration Program cars hovering in the $20,000 range. Certain clean, low milage examples have been trading a little higher and my guess would be that your example in excellent condition could command well over $30,000. To address your frame rail question in the other thread, yes, a donor frame rail from any early chassis would be appropriate. Do the work carefully to retain the value of your car. Please join our group and post pictures. We love pictures. We have lots of conversations going on about the early days and there are plenty of people willing to help with repair advice and parts.
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In the morning e-mail was a link to this add. Thought this would be the best place to post it as it has to do with relative value of Z cars. This one is highly modified yet retains it's original look. $22,000 asking price http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=13873&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=29&
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The tool kits that came standard included a jack, jack handle, lug wrench, and tire stoppers (wheel chocks). the wrench and jack handle came in a black vinyl plastic bag. Part numbers for these items vary, noting changes in tool design - up to 4/70, 5/70 to 7/73, and 8/73 on. My part information is limited to 12/73 however, you may find other listings in the parts fiche such as the one sold on this site. Optional tools could be purchased separately and include: 5 piece spanner set, pliers, a metal boxed socket set, set of screw drivers, tire pressure guage, spark plug wrench and a points polisher / file. My information shows the screw drivers as changeable heads in a plastic pouch. I am collecting Nissan tools and would be interested in your screw driver. I have spare jacks and vinyl pouches to trade if you wish.
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It must be Memorial day or something and everyone is sunburned ( at least I am ) or something because this is the second new thread I have opened with snappy comments. Hey TomoHawk - go over to the "build date" thread and slap TexasZ around!!!! The chassis for a 1975 280 Z commonly refered to as the S30 type chassis incorporates the body with the traditional frame. It is all one piece. Of course it can be replaced, but you are not going to go down to your local Datsun dealer and buy one. We have kicked around a couple of famous chassis replacements - Big Sam the race car in England had a chassis replacement and then there was the Italian job that claimed Monte Carlo notoriety, except the chassis had been replaced. Toss out your ideas to the group, dfr867. How bad is your current car? What are your plans for your "show car"?
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Jagbabe, North American import cars have a build date stamped on the VIN plate at the driver's door jamb. Your car may not have that stamping and we have discussed at length the legitimacy of the door jamb date. Other members may help out here, but I want you to look up some of the older threads on this topic. Check "Philosophical discussion" and some of the other build date threads for a detailed description of the importation tags and their locations. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4948&highlight=build+dates http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5244&highlight=build+dates http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13073
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Ben, My parts book dated December 73 shows RLS30-000001 from August 73 and GRLS30-000001 from October 73.