26th-Z

I'll throw this out to the club while we are on the subject of hatch glass. The '70 - '71 models had vertical demister lines. From '72 on (I think - correct me please) the demister lines were horizontal and in all the hatch glass as a standard feature. My glass is clear and I understand pretty rare. I am looking for a clear piece for a very deserving car and I have a brand new vertical line Nissan piece to offer up.

Just a super site, Fred. Thanks Mike, that is just a great model to drool over. Wow! Try this link to a $15 Fairlady SP311 http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?FUJ12110

I'm not crazy about the Yat Ming models. They just aren't very accurate. I want a Monte Carlo #5 car, preferably in 1/24, but haven't seen one recently. I'm also on the prowl for this 432 kit.

The plastic tanks tend to degrade over time and crack. There has been some discussion about fit for the different tanks, but I don't know much more. I don't see why any proper size fuel rated hose wouldn't work. The main vent hose from the fuel tank does a U-turn under the back, but I have seen people discuss a bent metal tube and clamps substitution for this. There are other vent pipes on the tank to seal if you eliminate the vapor tank. The stinky in your car could be a broken vent hose or the tank.

Hey 2ManyZs! Nice photos of your diecast cars! I have been interested in model kits, although the diecasts get to be enjoyed right away. Nice 432. I know people are looking for one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3175919101&category=2583 This is my current collection of plastic model kits.

Yes but remember the vapor tank is there for ecological reasons. We are not supposed to be breathing fuel vapors. The main vent from the fuel tank can be fit with a T connector near the fuel filler tube and then drain stright down to the fender well.

Bad rings are probably not going to push oil up into the combustion chamber. Your problem sounds more like valve stem seals and or valve guides.

Here is an original Japanese Bridgestone 175 SR14

This is the thumb latch I was talking about. I think locking fuel doors came in late '71 for the '72 model year. Check out kats' web site and his wonderful pictures of early Z stuff http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz903/

Hey zrush and Gav, I would really like to know when that picture was taken because there are some interesting points about the car. For instance, the tread on the tire indicates a radial. Some people say the Z came with 175 HR14 tires and I contend 175 SR14s. Kats has a picture of the 240Z emblems on the roof with a chromed Z and this one is white. I do know that 19 was built in 10/69, but have no idea what number this car is. It is an early one and all the other stuff I went on about early cars is factual. Great picture!

Spoofed ya! ROFL

We went through this with kats last September. One of the all time great threads...remember this? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9318&highlight=ORIGINAL+TIRES The hubcaps discussed are the 1970 style, but the later ones are becoming just as valuable, eh?

Drain the oil and fill the engine with new. Change the oil filter and pre-fill it half way before you put it on. (do it fast!) Take the spark plugs out and squirt some light oil (3-in-1) oil in the cylinders. I would take the valve cover off and oil the cam. Crank the engine over on the starter until you see pressure on the gauge. It wouldn't hurt to clean out all the old gas from the carbs and fill them with new, change the fuel filter and engine belts. Flush the radiator system. Replace the points, condensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs. Then start it. If it's been sitting for ten years, it will need a new air filter also.

I have a set of those - '80s Bosche? Yep, $300

This is a real good thread about splash pans http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9281&highlight=splash+pans

Just amazing Rick. I think that is HLS30-00019 with a build date of 10/69 taken on the banks of the Mississippi in the old Weeping Willow Park before they built the condominuims. Notice the dealer slotted mags and the tread pattern in the tire is the Japanese Bridgestone 175-SR14. How about the dealer rocker stripe? Did you know the gas cap thumb latch is actually chromed plastic? There are no end caps on the rear bumpers and the hatch glass is clear - no defrosters on the real early cars. Wow, that's an old picture! Taken before rust was invented!

The two sources I would recommend would be Classic Datsun Motorsports http://www.classicdatsun.com/ or Banzai Motorworks http://zzxdatsun.com/

Try a search through our forums for "wire connectors" and see if you can find some of the other great recommendations. I just used EagleDay.com http://store.yahoo.com/eagleday/blco.html with good luck. Or, ask Chloe if she can find you the real thing. http://www.midwestz.com/index.htm

Hello DJACEY, Saw this and thought of you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33705&item=2459091201&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT BTW, I found a working antenna switch for you. Chris

Larry, I can't find the particular site I wanted to recommend as a starter, but just do a "rust removal" search and start reading about the electrolytic rust removal process. You will find that most restorers of investment grade automobiles will prefer this method. It is comprehensive and the only way to completely remove rust from a body shell such as ours. Sand blasting will pit the metal and won't get inside the chassis. Acids are difficult to remove and stabilize. There are all kinds of encapsulators, including the POR so popularly discussed on this site, but they only encapsulate rust. They do not remove it. I was a big believer in OSPHO, but have changed my tune. The cost of my dip will be $1200 for the chassis only. Doors, deck lid and fenders are extra. The company I have been dealing with is Poineer Restorations in Wauchula, Florida and their dipping facility is Revivations. Look for a big story and write-up from me in the next few months. This is what I am currently doing to my shell.

Paint scraper, putty knife, wire brush, dust mask, heat gun. You will need the heat gun to put new tar mat back down. Replace the jute and the adhesive is most like 3-M's brand yellow adhesive contact cement. Pain-in-the, isn't it?

Diamond vinyl was original.

I know you guys are always looking and I saw a car with a good tray this weekend. The yard owner thought it was "Saturday on eBay" and I didn't even ask what he wanted to cut it out. I may go back and I'll deal if he's real with a price. Thanks

What is a used tray cut out of a junk yard car worth? They are around. I saw one this weekend. What's the going junk yard rate to cut one out?

Kieth, You will find this picture on IZCC's www.zhome.com site at the bottom of the menu - reference pictures - 1970 brochure. The fender bolts are painted. My Z has painted hood hinges, but that area has been painted numerous times over the life of the car and I am not 100% certain. However, I will be painting mine unless someone can convince me otherwise. It makes sense to me that the hinges would have been painted.